Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

m50tu into 86ES problems

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    m50tu into 86ES problems

    Just got done putting an e34 525i M50 into my 86ES (prod. 11/85). Wired it up, and tried to turn it to ON. Nothing. No power to fuel pump, any lights, no blower, anything. Parking lights do come on though.
    Checked all the power wires, alternator has the big wire to starter and smaller wire hooked up, starter has 2 bigger gauge wires and two smaller wires both on bottom post, and those go up to the terminal at the passenger side. The fuse box is getting power to all but a few fuses, and of course those are the ones to fuel pump, and windows/etc. I tried flipping wires around on the stater and whatnot, but to no avail, and I suppose its a moot point since the car isn't getting power itself. Fuseable link looks good and un popped. Fuel pump will prime when jumped, and the car did run fine minus some bad vacuum leaks with the m20.

    Cliff notes :
    Car ran okay before swap, minus the typical dripping oil pan and leaks.
    Did M50 swap into the car
    Used brand new battery, hooked power wires up
    No power to car, no hvac controls, no cluster lights
    Did not touch anything in ignition, car does nothing when turned to acc/on/start
    Fuel pump
    Any ideas? I know this is kind of vauge, and any questions concerning details will be answered. I just don't understand why there's no power to anything. Thanks for any help!

    #2
    How did you wire the C101?

    Check Us out on Facebook
    Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
    Full Product Line Tuning
    OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

    Comment


      #3
      Pin outs go as follows, and I think I may see what I mixed up...

      Color code = blu=blue, y=yellow, brn=brown, vi=violet, blk=black, grn=green, wht=white

      e30 fuse box
      e34 harness
      Pin 1 - 2 blue wires
      Pin 1 - blue
      Pin 2 - y/blu
      Pin 2 - na
      Pin 3 - na
      Pin 3 - na
      Pin 4 - brn/vi
      Pin 4 - brn/vi
      Pin 5 - brn/blk
      Pin 5 - brn/wht
      Pin 6 - y/grn
      Pin 6 - na
      Pin 7 - grn
      Pin 7 - thick green
      Pin 8 - NA
      Pin 8 - na
      Pin 9 - NA
      Pin 9 - na
      Pin 10 - grn/vi
      Pin 10 - na
      Pin 11 - blu/wht
      Pin 11 - wht/grn
      Pin 12 - na
      Pin 12 - na
      Pin 13 - thick vi/red
      Pin 13 - grn/vi
      (just a little red)
      Pin 14 - na
      Pin 14 - na
      Pin 15 - na
      Pin 15 - na
      Pin 16 - wht/blk
      Pin 16 - na
      Pin 17 - na
      Pin 17 - na
      Pin 18 - blk/y
      Pin 18 - blk/y
      Pin 19 - na
      Pin 19 - na
      Pin 20 - na
      Pin 20 - na

      Should pin 13 on the e34 side go to pin 10 on the e30 side?

      Comment


        #4
        You know theres more than 20 pins on the E34 harness right ;)

        Check Us out on Facebook
        Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
        Full Product Line Tuning
        OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

        Comment


          #5
          There's only 4 wires that need to go to the body for it to fire up and run.

          Blue alternator wire, 2 large ignition wires (one fused, other direct) and fuel pump. Disconnect all but these four wires and see what you get.
          john@m20guru.com
          Links:
          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by EclipseMTL View Post
            Pin outs go as follows, and I think I may see what I mixed up...

            Color code = blu=blue, y=yellow, brn=brown, vi=violet, blk=black, grn=green, wht=white

            e30 fuse box
            e34 harness
            Pin 1 - 2 blue wires
            Pin 1 - blue
            Pin 2 - y/blu
            Pin 2 - na
            Pin 3 - na
            Pin 3 - na
            Pin 4 - brn/vi
            Pin 4 - brn/vi
            Pin 5 - brn/blk
            Pin 5 - brn/wht
            Pin 6 - y/grn
            Pin 6 - na
            Pin 7 - grn
            Pin 7 - thick green
            Pin 8 - NA
            Pin 8 - na
            Pin 9 - NA
            Pin 9 - na
            Pin 10 - grn/vi
            Pin 10 - na
            Pin 11 - blu/wht
            Pin 11 - wht/grn
            Pin 12 - na
            Pin 12 - na
            Pin 13 - thick vi/red
            Pin 13 - grn/vi
            (just a little red)
            Pin 14 - na
            Pin 14 - na
            Pin 15 - na
            Pin 15 - na
            Pin 16 - wht/blk
            Pin 16 - na
            Pin 17 - na
            Pin 17 - na
            Pin 18 - blk/y
            Pin 18 - blk/y
            Pin 19 - na
            Pin 19 - na
            Pin 20 - na
            Pin 20 - na

            Should pin 13 on the e34 side go to pin 10 on the e30 side?
            It's difficult to go by color wire since BMW changed the colors often, and even change colors on opposing sides of connectors. It's best to go by pin numbers.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

            Comment


              #7
              Oh I realize there's more than what I listed, its just the ones we wired into a new c101. The motor was out of an auto e34, I don't know if that may add anything to this... ill give the four wires a try tonight and report back. Also, was there anything needed for ignition by the ecu in the glovebox? I only extended a wire for the tach to the c104? connector so far.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by eurosport22
                eclipse where did you get your info for the conversion pinout. im putting an s50 in my 11/85 eta and cant find the conversion for the c101 with fewer pins than the 86 and up.
                Welcome to the site.

                You have the same wires as the later c101, but in a different connector. Don't forget your tach, OBC ignition lockout and econoguage are in the glove-box on early models.

                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                Comment


                  #9
                  thank you very much. got it all straightened out

                  Comment


                    #10
                    oh another question i had and forgot about, what about the pin 12 cel control and pin 14 oil level fault set. i dont have either of those

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well we got the blower motor to blow while jumping k7, but doesn't turn on the fuel pump. Starter and fuel pump wires (wires 18 and 13 in order) are getting no power as well. We tried working main and fuel relays and nothing. Any ideas?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Jump the fuel pump relay and see if it kicks on. Swap before this last one we repaired (s50 w 413 dme), they hooked up the shock tower ground to tge power block and burned something. Had the same symptoms. So long as the fuel pump was jumped the car would run. Had to run 2 new wires to trip the fuel pump relay.
                        john@m20guru.com
                        Links:
                        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Well, I figured I'd bump this. Found out during booster removal I must have unhooked all the harnesses under the dash :oops: I plugged those in, went to start, and it sounded like a dead battery, very slow crank and no start.

                          I did buy a brand new one from the BMW dealership where I worked, so I took it out and had it tested, was fine with a load test. Next I figured it was a prong I hooked up wrong, so I tried swapping them around, go figure car started itself, so I unhooked the battery and took that off and reverted it back. We tested the starter with a volt meter, it was getting 9v when cranking. I took the starter out....pain in the butt, and got it tested, and it was fine. What could be the problem? I heard a bad engine/chassis ground can cause sluggish cranking, so I may get a new one and go from there. I'm also going to sand and get all the metal down to bare, and hope its something like that. A

                          Any ideas?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            C101 Wiring.

                            Check Us out on Facebook
                            Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
                            Full Product Line Tuning
                            OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

                            Comment


                              #15
                              IT RUNS! C101 wiring was perfectly fine, I put the starter back in and made a new chassis to motor ground. After we got the car all put together, we noticed it wasn't getting spark, so we double checked everything, and it was okay. What it ended up being was pin 56 on the dme slot, just slightly bent... and of course pin 56 is ignition switch. Fixed that, primed the pump and it turned over like a champ! Gotta get exhaust made up for it...and fix a lot of the rust and suspension, but it drives!

                              So basic cliffnotes of my 24v swap:

                              Make sure everything is plugged in under dash
                              Double check everything, even for little stuff
                              Make sure grounds are clean and new
                              Don't freak out when it doesn't work and don't throw parts at it

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X