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M50tu into E30 vert - what now?

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    M50tu into E30 vert - what now?

    So I picked up a long block e36 M50tu with accessories, harness, ecu, arms, etc. Grabbed the correct rubber mounts, G260 swap brace, E34 pan/pickup (need dipstick tube), S50 clutch, flywheel, pressure plate (need M/S5X starter).

    Tore the motor down to just the head, block, internals, vanos, and timing cover. Trying to decide what to do next.

    Do I rip out the internals and refresh? (bearings, rings, etc). The head was recently rebuilt - valves still look new, so that should be fine.

    If I do, is disassembly easy? This is my first 24V - I'm used to the M20 where you just remove the belt and separate. Can I just disassemble and worry about the cam tool/vanos tools when I reassemble?

    (Note - awaiting confirmation on mileage.)
    Originally posted by alpinaclone
    Since the real economy is in the shitter, I say we start our own.

    This is how it works; you buy my junk, then I will buy more junk and so on so forth etc. etc. Think of the future of your children and buy my stuff.

    #2
    that's what I did with my S50; took it down to a bare block and rebuilt with all new bearings, rings, etc. If you have rebuilt other engines, concept is the same. Disassembly is cake, reassembly is where you have to pay attention! Line stuff up that should be lined up...and use proper torque specs, etc.

    Plus, its nice to say I have an S50 with only 498 miles on it. ;-)
    '87 325ic, powered by S50.

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      #3
      Slight change. The guy I bought the motor from says it's pretty low mileage, and also has an S50 block for me to rebuild separately, so I'm going to just clean this up and paint it and put it in, and tear down the S50 block to rebuild.

      I had to remove one of the main bearing caps to remove the E36 oil pickup tube mounting bracket -
      a) do I need new main bearing cap bolts, and should I just do all of them? b) what is the correct torque spec for these bolts?
      c) should I replace the rod cap bolts while I have the pan off?
      d) I read that the e36 windage tray just gets removed because the E34 oil pan already has it built in, is this correct?

      Thanks!
      Originally posted by alpinaclone
      Since the real economy is in the shitter, I say we start our own.

      This is how it works; you buy my junk, then I will buy more junk and so on so forth etc. etc. Think of the future of your children and buy my stuff.

      Comment


        #4
        a) You should only replace the ones you disturbed. They are around $6 each, so if you were to do all of them just for the heck of it, it would get expensive.
        b) This is a jointing + torque angle spec. 20 N-m, then 50 degrees clockwise.
        c) Unless you are replacing the rod bearings, do not replace the rod cap screws.
        d) Yes, if your E34 pan already has a built in windage tray, remove the E36 sheetmetal unit.

        Originally posted by whysimon
        WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

        Comment


          #5
          So so very helpful, sir! I noticed you're local - I may have to pick your brain more.
          Originally posted by alpinaclone
          Since the real economy is in the shitter, I say we start our own.

          This is how it works; you buy my junk, then I will buy more junk and so on so forth etc. etc. Think of the future of your children and buy my stuff.

          Comment


            #6
            I just did this in my m50, had the head machined and everything. Now time to assemble it.

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