Rear Main Seal Questions! Please Help

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  • Tico Frank
    Grease Monkey
    • Feb 2011
    • 351

    #1

    Rear Main Seal Questions! Please Help

    I am in the process of replacing the rear main seal and I am concerned I did it wrong.

    #1 Against my gut feeling I did not add any sealant to the outer lip of the RMS and I keep reading that I should have used some sealant or gasket maker on the outer side that touches the RSM housing. I just added a dab of motor oil so it would slide on easily?

    #2 I didn't know that I was supposed to use the white plastic piece to install the Rear Main Seal so it would slide over the flywheel mount so I just slowly worked the inner part of the RMS over the mount. It was a ghetto process BUT I never tore the inner part of the RSM.

    Should I just spend another $25 on a RSM and do it over again?
    sigpic
  • reelizmpro
    R3V OG
    • Dec 2003
    • 9437

    #2
    I didnt use any sealant but using the tool is very important. I don't know if it will be okay or not...its hard to say.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

    Comment

    • Tico Frank
      Grease Monkey
      • Feb 2011
      • 351

      #3
      Any thoughts on this? The seal looks like it is set pretty evenly. I just wish there was a way I could test the seal for leaks before I put the tranny on.

      Might just be stressing this for no reason.
      sigpic

      Comment

      • Tico Frank
        Grease Monkey
        • Feb 2011
        • 351

        #4
        Thanks reelismpro. I agree and that's what concerns me. I did take care to make sure the inner seal was even and not torn but I am still nervous.
        sigpic

        Comment

        • reelizmpro
          R3V OG
          • Dec 2003
          • 9437

          #5
          I would love to say not to worry about it but u don't want to have to do this job again for a long time. Might be worth it to remove it and at least use the tool to install it. Also make sure the seal doesn't ride in any grooves.
          "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

          85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
          91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

          Comment

          • Tico Frank
            Grease Monkey
            • Feb 2011
            • 351

            #6
            That's a great idea. I will just remove, reinspect the seal and re-install using the tool.
            sigpic

            Comment

            • e46s54dr
              E30 Enthusiast
              • May 2008
              • 1059

              #7
              If you remove the seal, you should not re-use it. It will most likely get damaged from removal anyways. If you do decide to redo it, soak the new seal in oil for a bit and press it in evenly. Also make sure all you surfaces are clean and smooth. Most importantly, check your crankshaft for and wear or damages. Sometimes the area where the seal contacts the crankshaft will have a recessed wear ring. If it does, the new seal will have a hard time sealing properly.

              Comment

              • Jand3rson
                Banned
                • Oct 2003
                • 37587

                #8
                Originally posted by e46s54dr
                Sometimes the area where the seal contacts the crankshaft will have a recessed wear ring. If it does, the new seal will have a hard time sealing properly.
                And this is why I would HIGHLY recommend pulling off, getting a new seal, and sleeving the crank seal surface. We did mine when I did my new RSM, and for $45, it's EXCELLENT peace of mind. The one you want is called a Speedi Sleeve, they're made by SKF and super easy to install, they just come with this tuna-can looking thing that you use to gently tap the sleeve over the seal surface.



                I would also highly recommend gasket sealer between the RSM housing, the gasket, and the block.

                Comment

                • TimKninja
                  R3VLimited
                  • Mar 2009
                  • 2131

                  #9
                  Hmmm...I didn't use the white tool that came with my RMS.

                  That could of been why it leaked so much.
                  1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
                  1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
                  1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
                  1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter Beater

                  Comment

                  • RoadHazard
                    Advanced Member
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 163

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Tico Frank
                    That's a great idea. I will just remove, reinspect the seal and re-install using the tool.
                    So what did you do eventually? And what was the result? I'm in the same boat right now (installed a new seal and got a leak.) I'm trying to find out whether I could reuse that seal.
                    90 E30 S50B30
                    http://www.fquick.com/roadhazard/

                    Comment

                    • 328ijunkie
                      Forum Sponsor
                      • May 2007
                      • 3961

                      #11
                      I use the new style seals and never ever have issues.

                      Check Us out on Facebook
                      Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
                      Full Product Line Tuning
                      OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

                      Comment

                      • M3PO
                        E30 Addict
                        • May 2012
                        • 537

                        #12
                        My S50 doesn't look like it was leaking (113K miles). I bought a new old-style seal but I'm not sure what to do. Replace it and risk the new one leaking or slap it in as-is and change it when it does start to leak.

                        Comment

                        • 328ijunkie
                          Forum Sponsor
                          • May 2007
                          • 3961

                          #13
                          I have installed a few of the old style ones just to have them START leaking :(!

                          Check Us out on Facebook
                          Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
                          Full Product Line Tuning
                          OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

                          Comment

                          • M3PO
                            E30 Addict
                            • May 2012
                            • 537

                            #14
                            Originally posted by 328ijunkie
                            I have installed a few of the old style ones just to have them START leaking :(!
                            So you think the old style ones are just inferior?

                            Comment

                            • Rsully70sev
                              R3VLimited
                              • Sep 2010
                              • 2391

                              #15
                              Do it once, do it right.

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