s52 running hot

[mike866]

ok so guys i been getting help from u guys for almost a year now and yet again im back for some more well the s52 is in my car and every thing is in motor runs strong i have the original fan on the car with a e36 aluminum radiator also i am running silicone piping the car is running in between the half way and the 3/4 bar so today i felt the radiator was hot on the inlet side but cool on the the other side so i changed the thermostat and put a 80 degree one from auto zone and the same thing i pulled the water pump and it was all good metal impeller one so now i am telling my self could the heads be cracked so i took the plugs out no wetness and the oil looked good so i went to the Coolant Reservoir and the hose that returns the coolant back to my reservoir was kinda clogged up so i took the compressor to it but still after that the same thing so i was talking to a few people and they said it could be that the gauge in my cluster is off witch i really ant buying cause it was working good before or the thermostat sensor from my old m20 is no good but i drove the car around and when i really get on her she goes down to half i guess the thermostat is opening up but still dont understand y one side is cool or warm and the other side is hot on the radiator please tell me what u think the problem is i am gonna but a new coolant reservoir cause it was filled with all gunk but please help me out cause idk what else to think

[328ijunkie]

bleedddd

[lolcantturn]

[mike866]

s52 over heating

[quote=328ijunkie;3112299]bleedddd[/quote thanks ill try that

[Adrian_Visser]

Please use punctuation. I ran out of breath reading that.

Why don't you believe that your 20+ year old temp gauge with original sender could be giving erroneous readings?

The temp gauge in my swap car has recently grown a mind of it's own and will jump from just left of half to the 3/4 mark once in a while, it stays dead on 3/4 for a bit then suddenly jumps back to the right reading. When it first did it I was worried, I had to see it actually jump to and from 3/4 to be sure it was lying to me.

I'm running a Stewart wp, 80* tstat, 2000cfm fan and new oe rad. btw.

Does it run hot all the time or just I'm stop and go traffic?

(heating up in stop and go would indicate a bad vc fan clutch)

Does it run steady at 3/4 or keep climbing into the red?

(that would indicate a vapour lock caused by an air bubble)

[mike866]

s52 over heating

Please use punctuation. I ran out of breath reading that.

Why don't you believe that your 20+ year old temp gauge with original sender could be giving erroneous readings?

The temp gauge in my swap car has recently grown a mind of it's own and will jump from just left of half to the 3/4 mark once in a while, it stays dead on 3/4 for a bit then suddenly jumps back to the right reading. When it first did it I was worried, I had to see it actually jump to and from 3/4 to be sure it was lying to me.

I'm running a Stewart wp, 80* tstat, 2000cfm fan and new oe rad. btw.

Does it run hot all the time or just I'm stop and go traffic?

(heating up in stop and go would indicate a bad vc fan clutch)

Does it run steady at 3/4 or keep climbing into the red?

(that would indicate a vapour lock caused by an air bubble)

Next time i will use punctuation. Well the car dose not go higher than 3/4 but she comes down to 1/2 when i get on it. The clutch fan works fine, and she it in the 3/4 all the time. I am going to watch the gauge maybe i can see it bouncing around thanks for the input.

[samiam3356]

Jack the front of the car up and bleed. Squeeze the warm hoses and to help facilitate the bleeding process. You're doing it with the car on high heat correct? This shouldn't be a very long process IMO. Maybe 15 to 30 min at the most.

[mike866]

Jack the front of the car up and bleed. Squeeze the warm hoses and to help facilitate the bleeding process. You're doing it with the car on high heat correct? This shouldn't be a very long process IMO. Maybe 15 to 30 min at the most.

Thanks I havent got a chance to try to bleed but I am on sunday I will let u know how it goes

[SwiftE30]

definitely bleed. This is a common problem. should be the first thing you do to troublshoot heating issues. How did you run the temp gauge sender? Inline with hoses, die the sensor, tap the head, etc.?

[mike866]

Hi every one sorry for not staying on top of my own thread. I have been working and trying to save up money for the car so I put things on the side for a wile. So after reading and researching i cant find out how to bleed my system. I have a ebay e36 aluminum radiator with no bleeding screw can some one go step by step for me. I was reading that some guy said to keep the car at 2000 to 2500 rpm with the Coolant Reservoir cap off for 15 min ?????

[325e10]

Hi every one sorry for not staying on top of my own thread. I have been working and trying to save up money for the car so I put things on the side for a wile. So after reading and researching i cant find out how to bleed my system. I have a ebay e36 aluminum radiator with no bleeding screw can some one go step by step for me. I was reading that some guy said to keep the car at 2000 to 2500 rpm with the Coolant Reservoir cap off for 15 min ?????

Jack the front of the car up or park on a incline. leave the cap off the reservoir, watch for air bubbles. Have the heat on fully hot with max fan speed. should take 15-30 minutes with the car idling. Let it get to temp thermostat should open when the temp gauge is just below a half, do you have a E-fan?

[CHITTY]

I put a bleeder screw in my housing. Doing so made the bleed process simple and fast with no crazy methods of jacking the car, revving it for how ever long. It literly took a few minutes to get it bleed. It only cost me $10 to do it the way I did it, I'm sure it can be done cheaper.

[325e10]

usually bleeds fine for me without any issues even without the bleeder screw.

[DesertBMW]

If that radiator is not clogged, then most likely cylinder head has developed a crack somewhere near combustion chamber. This is very common

[samiam3356]

I put a bleeder screw in my housing. Doing so made the bleed process simple and fast with no crazy methods of jacking the car, revving it for how ever long. It literly took a few minutes to get it bleed. It only cost me $10 to do it the way I did it, I'm sure it can be done cheaper.

I mentioned doing this a couple years ago but it seemed no one had done it. Glad to see someone actually do this and post up a pic. Nice easy, quick fix! :up: