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    #16
    What's the difference between sitting still and moving? Airflow... check your fan clutch after bleeding too.
    Valley Motorwerks
    1988 E30M3

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      #17
      s52 over heating

      Originally posted by DesertBMW View Post
      If that radiator is not clogged, then most likely cylinder head has developed a crack somewhere near combustion chamber. This is very common
      o please noooo i hope that is not the issue the rad is brand new.I am going to go with the leaving the car running method.

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        #18
        Which fan do you use in a S52 M3E30?

        Marco.

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          #19
          Originally posted by valleymotorwerks View Post
          What's the difference between sitting still and moving? Airflow... check your fan clutch after bleeding too.
          This is how you can easily check your fan clutch.
          1. First with engine off see if the fan is really easy to spin. See if it has drag and wont spin easily when you spin the blades. If it does then the fan clutch is bad
          2. With the engine warm andin your case 3/4. Roll up a newspaper or magazine preferably a Honda one. Stick in your fan while running. If you can stop the fan then your fan clutch is bad and needs replace. If it is good then you will shread the honda mag. LOL

          This is why to do these test. If your car gets hot at idle or slow driving but cools off when you get up to higher speeds, you have more air flow going thru the radiator and will cool the motor down.

          replace your fan clutch
          Originally posted by Nicademus
          My car beats off to that car. :bow:

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            #20
            Which puller fan do you guys use with a S52 engine in an M3?
            My mechanic telss me he can not fit anything, and the engine is running hot in stop&go...

            Marco.

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              #21
              Steve (tn325i) had this exact same problem with his M52 swap at the Brodeo. Hot on the driver side of the rad and cold to the touch on the passenger side.

              The water pump looked good visually but when you turned it you could feel that it definitely wasn't turning smoothly. Basically, it was turning at rate slower than it should and slipping when the engine was revved up. (Engine had sat 2 years and the shaft bearing was failing.)

              Replaced with a new water pump and proper flow was restored.

              Also, instead of installing a bleed scrwn in your housing you can drill a 1/4 hole in bottom of your thermostat and fill with the expansion tank open. Works everytime.

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                #22
                Originally posted by RobertK View Post
                Steve (tn325i) had this exact same problem with his M52 swap at the Brodeo. Hot on the driver side of the rad and cold to the touch on the passenger side.

                The water pump looked good visually but when you turned it you could feel that it definitely wasn't turning smoothly. Basically, it was turning at rate slower than it should and slipping when the engine was revved up. (Engine had sat 2 years and the shaft bearing was failing.)

                Replaced with a new water pump and proper flow was restored.

                Also, instead of installing a bleed scrwn in your housing you can drill a 1/4 hole in bottom of your thermostat and fill with the expansion tank open. Works everytime.
                not to thread jack ... but this will help on an M50 TU also ? 89 I radiator/expansion tank thanks
                My CA legal M60 swap

                The happening in our garage

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by 36brua View Post
                  not to thread jack ... but this will help on an M50 TU also ? 89 I radiator/expansion tank thanks
                  yup

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