m52 cfont crank seal good idea?

[frankie591]

Should I replace the front crankshaft seal on my m52 while its on the stand, or am I opening a can of worms? I don't know the history of the motor, the timing cover looks fairly clean so I assume the seal isn't leaking much if at all. I bought the seal along with a bunch of other stuff, but after reading what is required to change it, I'm having second thoughts and think I might just skip installing it unless I have a problem.

Thoughts?

[reelizmpro]

Hmmm probably not unless you are doing other things to the engine. Do you know the mileage? It's a peace of mind kind of thing.

[frankie591]

I'm doing most seals on the motor, water pump, tstat, vc and oil pan gasket. I was told the motor has 100k, with a rebuild at 50k, and judging by the shape of the head and bottom end I believe that mileage is fairly accurate.

[reelizmpro]

If it was rebuilt, chances are they changed the front seal as the cover has to be removed and you said that the area is clean and doesn't seem to be leaking. I wouldn't worry about it in that case.

[Adrian_Visser]

Murphy's law says it will start leaking one month after you get the car on the road. Remember the crank nut is torqued to 300ft lbs, you need to hold the crank from spinning somehow. Either by using the holding tool attached to the stock flywheel or if you are using an aftermarket flywheel by putting a 2x4 between the block and a crank throw with the oil pan off or making a tool to connect to the harmonic balancer bolts.

[jrdeamicis]

The front main seal. HELL YES you should replace it. Its not hard, just crack the crank bolt, 3 jaw puller the flange off.

MANDATORY

Front main seal
Rear main seal
Oil Pan
Head Gasket
Intake
Exhaust
Oil Filter housing


Wait... I am just listing the gasket set. Replace everything because i promise you, nothing is worse than having a brand new engine leak.

[bimmerteck]

nothing is worse than having a brand new engine leak.

QFT

It will never be easier to replace ALL the gaskets on that motor than when it's on the stand, don't forget the gasket for the heater hose flange on the back of the head, the rear main seal housing gasket, and the timing cover gaskets.

[7pilot]

If you are going to use a synthetic oil...Change it.

m

[frankie591]

Murphy's law says it will start leaking one month after you get the car on the road. Remember the crank nut is torqued to 300ft lbs, you need to hold the crank from spinning somehow. Either by using the holding tool attached to the stock flywheel or if you are using an aftermarket flywheel by putting a 2x4 between the block and a crank throw with the oil pan off or making a tool to connect to the harmonic balancer bolts.

Would a 4x4 wood block wedged between the crank counterweights and the block cause any damage to the crank or the block?

[jrdeamicis]

Would a 4x4 wood block wedged between the crank counterweights and the block cause any damage to the crank or the block?

Nope, I use a wedge all the time to stop the crank from rotation so I could crack the bolt.

[328ijunkie]

Big impact gun ;)

[jrdeamicis]

Big impact gun ;)

BIG. Most people don't have access to an impact that large.

[howelll]

I used my 5 ft jack handle over my 1/2 in drive rachet to pull it off, then unbolted the lower timing cover and pressed out the seal from the back side.

[Adrian_Visser]

3/4" dr breaker bar ftw