e34 m50 oil pump or s50 oil pump

[B3M2W5]

Ya I just cliped it off i used a pair of tin snips and just cliped it off. I took that plate off and saw where that is bolted to and i just thought i would be easier to snip it off.

[matt]

Well that works too.

[Mr.SWISS]

Uh I would never disturb those unless you are rebuilding your block. There is a reason people bend till it breaks or clip it off instead of undoing two bolts.

[B3M2W5]

Good point, but i did it just cuz i was lazy and that seemed easier. Ha ha

[matt]

Uh I would never disturb those unless you are rebuilding your block. There is a reason people bend till it breaks or clip it off instead of undoing two bolts.

Not really. Pulling a main cap off to check for debris/wear in the bearing or on the crank is pretty standard practice.

[B3M2W5]

Matt makes a good point too!

[FredK]

I thought removing the main cap would be easier than breaking the bracket as well.

Then StreuB1 on bf.c told me the main bolts aren't reusable. I guess you're gonna have to source two new main bolts and most people will need to buy a torque angle gauge (and a torque wrench if they don't already have one). Easier to just break it off. I don't know what kind of tin snips you have, but they must be pretty strong to be able to cut through the bracket! It's gotta be like 1/16" thick!

[B3M2W5]

It took a little bit but im also not the weakest kid in the world. But yah there pretty hevy tin snips. Dad worked in the trades so hes got all sorts of tools.

[matt]

The TIS specifies to replace the bolts, but they're not actually TTY bolts like head bolts, they're just regular grade 12.9 if I remember correctly. I'm willing to risk it.

[dude8383]

The TIS specifies to replace the bolts, but they're not actually TTY bolts like head bolts, they're just regular grade 12.9 if I remember correctly. I'm willing to risk it.

Do you think it would be alright to re-use all of them?

I have to rebuild the whole motor and well I don't want to cut any corners but am willing to save some dough where I can! If they have to replaced then I'll do it the right way :)

Do you have specs on piston ring sizing, rod bearing sizing, and main bearing sizing? I know that I have to replace them with new sizes but I have no idea!

I.E. :

Which rod bearings should I be going with?

11241284850 - (45mm) - rod bearing upper (blue)
11241284852 -(44.75mm) - rod bearing upper (blue)
11241284854 - (44.50mm) - rod bearing upper (blue)

11241284849 - (45mm) - rod bearing lower (red)
11241284851 - (44.75mm) - rod bearing lower (red)
11241284853 - (44.50mm) - rod bearing lower (red)

[matt]

Why do you have to swap them to new sizes? Did you have your crank ground?

I would replace the bolts if you're doing all of them.

[dude8383]

Why do you have to swap them to new sizes? Did you have your crank ground?

I would replace the bolts if you're doing all of them.

Nope, I did not have my crank ground.

I have no idea what the size should be because realoem lists several sizes!

I can't find any information about the block in this bloody Bentley manual!!

[e30serg]

Dude-get yourself some plastigage and learn how to use it! :D
Read this:

http://www.fast351.com/cartech/enginerebuild/index.htm

You basically lay down the plastigage across the bearing surface, install the cap over it and torque the bolts down to spec. Remove the caps and check the thickness of the plastigage using the included guide. This will tell you how much room you have to fill between the crank journal and the bearing cap. Size the bearing accordingly. If you haven't touched anything and the journals look good, you can probably get away with having the journals polished, installing stock bearings and call it a day!

[dude8383]

You make it sound so easy :)

I shall get me some of this plastigage and learn how to use it...

[e30serg]

:D
All I can say is read, read, read, read.

And unless you're in a huge hurry...take your time! Do it right the first time, unless you really enjoy tearing stuff apart..

;)