s52 fires but won't stay alive

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  • dmjensen
    Mod Crazy
    • Jan 2011
    • 799

    #31
    Thats a good question.. is the sensor for the gauge in the head or the radiator?
    If its the one in the head, its the oe one from the e36. If its the one in the rad, i replaced it with a two prong because i thought that was the aux fan switch

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    • 328ijunkie
      Forum Sponsor
      • May 2007
      • 3961

      #32
      Well theres your problem. You need the E30 sensor in the head for the temp gauge to work.

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      Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
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      OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

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      • dmjensen
        Mod Crazy
        • Jan 2011
        • 799

        #33
        Lol. Alot of this stuff wasn't mentioned to me before. Will that be the same size as the e36 because im not drilling anything into that head.

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        • 328ijunkie
          Forum Sponsor
          • May 2007
          • 3961

          #34
          Shameless plug:
          The page you're looking for does not exist. Please visit our home page or locations page for more information.

          Check Us out on Facebook
          Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
          Full Product Line Tuning
          OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

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          • gmyatko
            Noobie
            • Nov 2012
            • 1

            #35
            S52 motor turns over momentarily fires up, won't stay lit unless I put my foot in it

            Hi, I just read someones post, not sure it applies to me. We were tracking our '97 E36 M3, and spun into the dirt, kicking up a lot of stones and dust. Right before the spin, the car ran fine. After the spin, the car wouldn't stay fired up more than a 1/2 second. It continually does this. If I put the pedal all the way down, it will sort of stay fired up, but there's an obvious problem so I didn't want to keep it fired up that way for any reason. I checked the fuel rail pressure = ~ 52PSI steady. I found the PCV valve cracked open on the back, and the big red rubber diaphragm inside was exposed with a big tear, so we thought we found it due to a huge vacuum leak. Replaced it, had same issue.
            So we're going to try someones suggestion of unplugging the MAF then the tps then both and see what it yields. In the meantime, if this sounds somehow familiar to anyone, I'll be checking back.
            Thanks

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