audi a4 1.8t booster/mc *update it's installed!*

[5Toes]

Or atleast first post edited with complete instructions

[bimmer630]

I thought I read somewhere above that the rod is cut and the clevis is welded on at the correct length..

Ive gotten negative comments on my welded clevis in my relocated booster in my swap, and was just wondering why this thread hasnt turned into a flame fest too

[Mr.SWISS]

I thought I read somewhere above that the rod is cut and the clevis is welded on at the correct length..

Ive gotten negative comments on my welded clevis in my relocated booster in my swap, and was just wondering why this thread hasnt turned into a flame fest too

You're wrong, that's why.

Before you remove the clevis from the e30 booster. Measure from the flat part on the booster (the one that's against the firewall) to the end of the clevis.
You'll need to rethread the clevis to the same size as the Audi pushrod. You'll also have to cut down the Audi rod a few inchs back but with the measurement you took on the e30 booster, you can determine how much of the rod to cut off.

Nope, no welding.

[mtlbloodshot]

This booster with an upgraded 25.4 mm S4 MC feels amazing on the pedal. I haven't driven the car yet but just compressing the pedal has a good feeling to it.

[bimmer630]

My bad. maybe I was reading something else referring to welding a pushrod and the info got mixed up in my brain.. or I was drunk.. or both

[ZekeTheSneak]

You bore out and retap the stock e30 clevis, Sorry I do not have a picture yet this is a thread in progress. 5toes read, most of the info is there. Also look into mtlbloodshots build as he has this done and it is well documented.

Any questions feel free to ask. Most of the comments on the first page were pertaining to when I originally asked about this setup and ABS. I will be updating as I go!

[Mr.SWISS]

My bad. maybe I was reading something else referring to welding a pushrod and the info got mixed up in my brain.. or I was drunk.. or both

I think you were thinking of the booster slotterz, they do jank like that.

[ZekeTheSneak]

Update blump. Now I just need a clutch.

[ForcedFirebird]

I thought I read somewhere above that the rod is cut and the clevis is welded on at the correct length..

Ive gotten negative comments on my welded clevis in my relocated booster in my swap, and was just wondering why this thread hasnt turned into a flame fest too

I mentioned my customer had an Audi booster in his car that had a welded clevis. Never said it had to be done.

[mtlbloodshot]

It's a fairly simple thing to do

[Bmjpv]

re designing the round wheel

That's a lot of quessing and work to change a great stock setup. Just notch the bottom of the plastic intake manifold for engine clearance. I've done it like other 24v ers. Joe

[ForcedFirebird]

That's a lot of quessing and work to change a great stock setup. Just notch the bottom of the plastic intake manifold for engine clearance. I've done it like other 24v ers. Joe

How easy is it to remove the manifold for any service or upgrades later if you notch it?

[ZekeTheSneak]

That's a lot of quessing and work to change a great stock setup. Just notch the bottom of the plastic intake manifold for engine clearance. I've done it like other 24v ers. Joe

Wtf? So obstruct flow? This setup is really easy. It fits and it works.

[mtlbloodshot]

I guess people like cutting their firewall, intake manifold and welding clevis or they're just too purist to accept a Audi booster.. Sigh

[evandael]

just a heads up, this same part comes on 1.8T passat B5's, 2.7T Audi A6's and S4's, with either a 23.8mm master or 25.4mm master. i picked up a booster/mc the other day from an A6 for $60 :up: