S50 swap questions

[yahh]

Distribution block

Ground 1

Grounded ECU

Motor Mount Ground

Extra Plug coming from pins 10 and 2 on e30 side that becomes the regular 3 prong e36 plug.

[yahh]

When I turn the key to accessory I have 12v at 2 of 3 prongs on the large fuel pump plug.

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[e30austin]

Ok, a few things.

First, the red wire on the dist block that is all by itself needs to go with the little wire coming off the big battery wire (at the top of the dist block.) That is for your fuel pump.

Second, that motor mount ground doesn't look very good. It needs to be bolted to the side of the frame rail. If that comes off while you're driving, you'll probably lose all power.

Third, I think that two prong plug is for your C104 in the dash for tach/fuel response.

And, just for shits and giggles, go ahead and cut the black plastic a little on the end of each ground/positive wire, just to make sure they're right.

[yahh]

Ok, a few things.

First, the red wire on the dist block that is all by itself needs to go with the little wire coming off the big battery wire (at the top of the dist block.) That is for your fuel pump.

Second, that motor mount ground doesn't look very good. It needs to be bolted to the side of the frame rail. If that comes off while you're driving, you'll probably lose all power.

Third, I think that two prong plug is for your C104 in the dash for tach/fuel response.

And, just for shits and giggles, go ahead and cut the black plastic a little on the end of each ground/positive wire, just to make sure they're right.

Ok moved red up to the top bolt with the black one.

Exposed all wires. All red and the one that's grounded is brown and brown/orange.

In the dash I have a 3 prong white connector, I connected that one into one of the ones coming of the adapter which was a white 3 prong connector.

The 2 prong that I showed there goes into a 3 prong e36 style connector . Same as TPS and others.

The ground is temporary just trying to get it started, obviously theECU won't stay there in the bay :)


On ACC only fuses 1,2, and 11 have power, wtf?

[328ijunkie]

Your adapter is shit. Sory.

[yahh]

Your adapter is shit. Sory.

Explain....

I showed what pins go to what, are they not correct or? I didn't want to hardwire it until I got all the pins correct and motor running smooth.

[yahh]

This is the connector in the glove box.



This is the connector at the end of the other one i posted a few posts ago that comes from pins 2 and 10.

[e30austin]

Hmm. Maybe for oil level sender (since it's not stock looking and someone obviously put it in.)

http://84.45.115.78/e30zonewiki/index.php/C101

That is what I used for my C101 wiring. Even though the "jetronic" shows the 84/85 C104 connector, it's the same as the ETA cars. Late M20 "i" and M42 cars use the "motronic" wiring.



Here are the pinouts for the X20 (S50 side of the harness.) Disregard his pinouts for the late car, it's a little different than your ETA.

I would double check all your connections. It sounds like you did something wrong.

[yahh]

1 - 25 Good Alternator
4 - 12 Good Coolant Temp
5 - 23 Good Oil Pressure
6 - 22 Not Connected Diag Power?
7 - 21 Good Ignition Switch
8 - 24 Not Connected Fuel Rate 8 Missing on e30 side, 24 on e36 side goes to A plug w/ 20
9 - 20 Not Connected Engine Speed 9 Missing on e30 side, 20 goes w/ 24 to A plug
10?? ???? 10 goes to a plug with 2 - Both e30 side
11 - 19 Good Diag Connector
12 - 8 Good Check Engine Light
13 - 13 Good Fuel Pump Relay
14 - 14 Not Connected Oil Level Fault Set 14 Missing on e30 side, unused e36 side
15 - 15 Not Connected Starter Motor 15 Missing on e30 side, unused e36 side
16 - 17 Not Connected Diag Connector Available on both sides, both unused
18 - 18 Good Starter

So compared to my adapter it seems as they're all good. Only one that I don't have connected is 16-17 which is the SRS/DIAG.

So the 2/10 pins are the oil pressure sensor. (That's the one coming off my adapter, just doesn't fit on there as the oil pan has a rounded connector)

Is the fuse thing normal? v
"On ACC only fuses 1,2, and 11 have power"

What could've I done wrong? I double checked the CPS wire and you can't mix them up as one is male and one is female. I'm at a complete loss, unless my fuel pump decided to take a shit on me randomly. I also tried jumping the relay at pin 30 and 87 I believe ti was and nothing on the fuel pump..

[e30austin]

I'm putting money on a grounding issue. It sounds to me like you are missing a ground or a load isn't unloading. Do you have all your grounds connected and secured? Fuel rail to vanos, valve cover to coils, engine arm to frame rail, battery tray and battery in trunk.

I had a very similar issue on an S52 car I did a few months back. Cranked all day, but no fuel or spark. It turned out that one of the small wires going to the starter (for the main relay) was touching somewhere on the firewall and grounding out. It was super weird and unlikely that this is your issue, but I would check that, too.

[328ijunkie]

Your ECU power wire is connected to nothing as mentioned earlier. That 10mm stud you connected it to is an isolater not power. Your Engine ground strap you just stuck somewhere with a phillips needs to be firmly connected. It has 100+ amps grounding through it on start and you can (or already may have) fry your engine harness trying to start with no engine ground as the starter is trying to find a ground point some where.

Your harness adapter is missing a good number of things as well as having things in the wrong place (Eta's dont have Check engine lights factory for instance) but none of that looks like it would cause a no start situation.

[yahh]

Your ECU power wire is connected to nothing as mentioned earlier. That 10mm stud you connected it to is an isolater not power. Your Engine ground strap you just stuck somewhere with a phillips needs to be firmly connected. It has 100+ amps grounding through it on start and you can (or already may have) fry your engine harness trying to start with no engine ground as the starter is trying to find a ground point some where.

Your harness adapter is missing a good number of things as well as having things in the wrong place (Eta's dont have Check engine lights factory for instance) but none of that looks like it would cause a no start situation.

I will re check the wiring. Do you have an exact pin out chart for an eta?

I will reground that bottom ground to the rail this afternoon.

So the wire with the red tape on it, where should I move it to? On the side of the distribution box where the main clamp is ? If you could circle the wire and circle where that would be great.


Thanks to both of you for your help and patience :)

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[yahh]

It starts. Added another ground on the driver side.

[amcink]

It starts. Added another ground on the driver side.

Cool!

[yahh]

First start Not sure how to embed.