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I busted the _________. (Yup, Oil pan)

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    I busted the _________. (Yup, Oil pan)

    Great news - I busted up my oil pan.

    About a year or so, I replaced my clutch and flywheel on my swapped e30, and I replaced my oil pan gasket just for the security. I remember how much of a pain it was. Now I have to do it again.
    As far as I remember, I have to pull the exhaust, drop the diff (to take out the driveshaft and tranny, just to get to those bolts) drop the subframe and suspend the engine and then remove the pan.

    Am I missing anything?

    And what are some tips to get this done quickly with the least amount of hassle?

    #2
    You don't have to drop the diff. Disconnect the driveshaft from the trans and drop it. It will help to have the rear wheels in the air so you can spin the driveshaft.
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    1989 Zinno 325i m52 turbo coupe
    2015 Ford Fiesta ST, Daily Driver.

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      #3
      Fastest way to do an oil pan is to rent (or buy) an engine brace that goes across the engine bay and rests on the fender/frame rails. Hold the engine in place and remove the motor mount bolts along with 4 sub-frame bolts and let the sub-frame drop. Once you do that, the oil pan is a snap. Unbolt and it will pull right out.
      john@m20guru.com
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        #4
        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
        Fastest way to do an oil pan is to rent (or buy) an engine brace that goes across the engine bay and rests on the fender/frame rails. Hold the engine in place and remove the motor mount bolts along with 4 sub-frame bolts and let the sub-frame drop. Once you do that, the oil pan is a snap. Unbolt and it will pull right out.
        ^^ this. Also there should be two notches in the transmission which allow you to get to the 2 long bolts out of the rear main seal housing. Make sure you use a torque wrench on those 2 long bolts when you put it back together. Ask me how I know :D

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          #5
          Originally posted by broach328 View Post
          ^^ this. Also there should be two notches in the transmission which allow you to get to the 2 long bolts out of the rear main seal housing. Make sure you use a torque wrench on those 2 long bolts when you put it back together. Ask me how I know :D
          He probably has a G260 or 240 and didn't cut holes for the rear bolts so he has to pull the transmission off to get to them.

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            #6
            Dbl post
            Last edited by bimmer630; 01-22-2013, 02:39 PM.

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              #7
              Shoot I have a 260 and didnt even think about this bolt reliefs... maybe somebody can take measurements of their holes and post them up so he (and I ) can just drill or grind some holes to get to the bolts

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                #8
                ^^^ Thatll be good. There is no disadvantage to holes being in the bell housing of the tranny?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by graphikg View Post
                  ^^^ Thatll be good. There is no disadvantage to holes being in the bell housing of the tranny?
                  If you are using a 260 already, then one more modification to make it serviceable is no biggie. I mean cmon you already are mounting it with less bolts than before, using a homebrew pp/clutch and fly, grinded a bajillion things for clearance, fabbed or purchased a new bracket, fabbed or purchaed a selector... same with the carrier rod.... custom d shaft...

                  Seems a lot better than using an e36 trans and it all bolting up like it was designed to work together.
                  Originally posted by 325Projectz
                  don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
                  :nice:

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                    #10
                    I received no cynicism from your post. But thanks - haha, good argument.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Mr.SWISS View Post
                      If you are using a 260 already, then one more modification to make it serviceable is no biggie. I mean cmon you already are mounting it with less bolts than before, using a homebrew pp/clutch and fly, grinded a bajillion things for clearance, fabbed or purchased a new bracket, fabbed or purchaed a selector... same with the carrier rod.... custom d shaft...

                      Seems a lot better than using an e36 trans and it all bolting up like it was designed to work together.
                      lulz. dont hate on blowtorched selector rods! They bauss yo.

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                        #12
                        haha dave I forgot your running a 260. Your proof that they can hold up to the power. Just so as long as youve got weaves and no grip :p

                        To the above posts, if it were me, I would definitely prefer notching the transmission rather than pulling it. I havent had to try yet but It seems unlikely that the trans will slide off without pulling the motor or drooping it so much that it would be simpler to just remove it. The getrags could be a bit smaller. I know the 240s are

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by broach328 View Post
                          ^^ this. Also there should be two notches in the transmission which allow you to get to the 2 long bolts out of the rear main seal housing. Make sure you use a torque wrench on those 2 long bolts when you put it back together. Ask me how I know :D
                          How do you know??? and what do you torque it to?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            if you over torque them any at all, they sheer off and the oil pan will leak unless you remove rear main housing and get the broken end out. I dont remember the specific torque of it it but its not much, same as the other oil pan bolts.

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