'89 S50, cranks, no start

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  • e30austin
    I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
    • Sep 2010
    • 15382

    #1

    '89 S50, cranks, no start

    1989 325i manual
    1995 S50B30 US
    1994 325is manual harness
    413 red label DME with TRM tune for S50
    Modified C101 connector to X20 connector (no adapter)

    Cranks awesome. Main relays are not turning on. There is 11.x volts at two of the wires at the main relay, 1.4x volts at the other two, and 11.8v at the ground on the relay. The main harness ground (at the battery tray) is getting 1.5x volts also. 525 ohms at CPS too (and it's plugged in to the proper connector.) 11.5 volts at pin 7 C101 (E30 switched ignition wire.)

    Obviously, one of my grounds is getting power. What did I do wrong?! I don't even know where to start...

    Thanks guys!


  • BenM
    R3VLimited
    • Nov 2006
    • 2184

    #2
    -Have you properly hooked up the 12V+ wires at the distribution block?
    -All the grounds connected(ECU, Coils, Engine block, shock tower, etc.)?
    -Fuel Lines connected the right way?
    -Is it possible you connected the ground wire that's supposed to be at the shock tower to the distribution block?
    -What chart did you use for your wiring?

    There is only one main relay FYI. The other 2 are the fuel pump and oxygen sensor heater.

    How are you checking the main relay to make sure it's turning on, key in on position? Do you here the ICV hum when you turn the key? On the main relay, the 2 large red wires are 12V+ to terminals 30 & 86 at all times.

    Also check the continuity between DME Pin 27 and Terminal 85 on the Main Relay. IIRC that is the signal wire that tells the main relay to feed power to Terminal 87/87a, aka. Fuel pump relay, ICV, etc.

    Hope this helps.
    Originally posted by BillBrasky
    E36's are the Stephen Baldwin of the 3 series family. They barely hold everything together and they only sold a lot because of the popularity of their older sibling.
    1991 318i Alpine II - S50/5-lug swapped - track car
    1989 325i Cirrusblau - Daily
    1970 2500 - Malaga over Grey Cloth
    2012 F350 6.7PSD

    Comment

    • Mr.SWISS
      E30 Fanatic
      • Nov 2005
      • 1251

      #3
      Originally posted by BenM
      -Have you properly hooked up the 12V+ wires at the distribution block?
      -All the grounds connected(ECU, Coils, Engine block, shock tower, etc.)?
      -Fuel Lines connected the right way?
      -Is it possible you connected the ground wire that's supposed to be at the shock tower to the distribution block?
      -What chart did you use for your wiring?


      There is only one main relay FYI. The other 2 are the fuel pump and oxygen sensor heater.

      How are you checking the main relay to make sure it's turning on, key in on position? Do you here the ICV hum when you turn the key? On the main relay, the 2 large red wires are 12V+ to terminals 30 & 86 at all times.

      Also check the continuity between DME Pin 27 and Terminal 85 on the Main Relay. IIRC that is the signal wire that tells the main relay to feed power to Terminal 87/87a, aka. Fuel pump relay, ICV, etc.

      Hope this helps.
      That's a great set of steps there!

      I would say most swaps that have DME power issue( no CEL) are not wired properly, usually it is the dist block and grounds on tower bass ackwards as you mentioned.
      Originally posted by 325Projectz
      don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
      :nice:

      Comment

      • cormier
        Grease Monkey
        • Feb 2008
        • 380

        #4
        The relay is good? Have you tried manually jumping the pins simulating an ON relay? I had the wrong relay in my main slot and it obviously didn't fire

        Comment

        • ZekeTheSneak
          E30 Mastermind
          • May 2010
          • 1562

          #5
          Check the Crank position sensor. I unplugged everything and thats all it needs to start. Make damn sure it works and is connected correctly. Who did your harness? Check into what was done on pin 20 for abs if applicable to you.



          Comment

          • e30austin
            I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
            • Sep 2010
            • 15382

            #6
            Originally posted by BenM
            -Have you properly hooked up the 12V+ wires at the distribution block?
            -All the grounds connected(ECU, Coils, Engine block, shock tower, etc.)?
            -Fuel Lines connected the right way?
            -Is it possible you connected the ground wire that's supposed to be at the shock tower to the distribution block?
            -What chart did you use for your wiring?

            There is only one main relay FYI. The other 2 are the fuel pump and oxygen sensor heater.

            How are you checking the main relay to make sure it's turning on, key in on position? Do you here the ICV hum when you turn the key? On the main relay, the 2 large red wires are 12V+ to terminals 30 & 86 at all times.

            Also check the continuity between DME Pin 27 and Terminal 85 on the Main Relay. IIRC that is the signal wire that tells the main relay to feed power to Terminal 87/87a, aka. Fuel pump relay, ICV, etc.

            Hope this helps.
            Ok, didn't have much time to screw with this today (in the process of moving,) but all the 12v wires are good, the ground is secured at the battery tray, the coil packs/valve cover, engine arm/frame rail. DME is not grounded (need to get the 318is bracket installed, on my list of things to do.) I cut back the plastic going to all the wires, so I'm sure those are good. CPS is good and plugged into the proper connector (has a small piece of yellow tape on it.)

            Here's another thing- windows and blower motor don't work. I had this issue once on an M20 where the starter wires got reversed (since they're the same size.) However, I'm using the E36 harness and there is only one way they fit on since they're different size (afaik.) I don't think the solenoid will engage otherwise, though.

            Oh, and I did the harness myself. Used the pinouts for a '95 E36 (forget the source) and the pinouts for a late E30 M20 off e30zone.

            Help is much appreciated!
            Last edited by e30austin; 03-16-2013, 05:08 PM.


            Comment

            • Farbin Kaiber
              Lil' Puppet
              • Jul 2007
              • 29502

              #7
              The windows/blower issue is the K5 unloader relay. Make sure to check/verify your connections at the starter. I think you have either the two small wires backwards, or both on one pole.

              Comment

              • e30austin
                I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
                • Sep 2010
                • 15382

                #8
                Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber
                The windows/blower issue is the K5 unloader relay. Make sure to check/verify your connections at the starter. I think you have either the two small wires backwards, or both on one pole.
                Swapped the two wires. Heater/windows work, but no crank now. Ugh.


                Comment

                • e30austin
                  I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 15382

                  #9
                  Switched starter wires back, ensured I had a good DME ground (didn't before) and it fired right up. However, window, heater and radio do not work now...but it runs at least!!!


                  Comment

                  • cormier
                    Grease Monkey
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 380

                    #10
                    Congrats dude!

                    Comment

                    • Mr.SWISS
                      E30 Fanatic
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 1251

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Austin!
                      Switched starter wires back, ensured I had a good DME ground (didn't before) and it fired right up. However, window, heater and radio do not work now...but it runs at least!!!


                      Small battles win the war! I bet your unloader is wired wrong sir.

                      I would take a meter and test the ground from the tray and then from there hit the 12+ connections on the firewall and verify you have power on all the eyelets. Then test the white relay ( DME) on the harness next to the blue and orange one(o2 and FP), People usual install these on the fuse box since they slide right on.
                      Originally posted by 325Projectz
                      don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
                      :nice:

                      Comment

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