Motor been in for a bit. What would you retorque/check?

[shiboujin]

Basically, I'm paranoid as waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles. Too many bolts/fluids/issues to think about to get it done right in the first go. I've driven the car around for a good 20 miles and feel like it's a good time to get under it and make sure all the bolts are still there and nothing is uber leaking.

Things I'm gonna retorque/check:
Motor/trans mounts
drive shaft bolts
clutch fan (yep, managed to keep mine)
intake mani

What else? I figure things like the exhaust would have leaked by now. I also figure internal components or things like the oil pan would also have leaked but also might be more prone to leak if I get back at them. Hence why I'm leaving the head bolts be. They are ARPs anyway so I'd have to take the cams out. Maybe I should retorque the cam bolts... At one point in time, this motor was 100% apart minus bottom end rotating assembly.

[M-technik-3]

You torqued them when you assembled it correct? If so your being paranoid as mentioned.

[shiboujin]

Anything internal engine, I torque with a torque wrench. Everything outside I torque to the "good and tight" spec lol. Realistically, yea, if it hasn't fallen off now, why would it? But I've seen cars where bolts slowly back out.

[george graves]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong - but I think lug nuts are the only bolts that are spec'ed as needing checking after XXX many miles.

[M-technik-3]

Did you use new hardware or old? Old can back off if they were a locking type nut.

[shiboujin]

Some things were new, some were old. The drive shaft nuts are definitely old so that's why I'm retorquing those.

[7pilot]

I would check the differential mounting bolt torque.

m

[shiboujin]

Didn't touch the diff though.

[FredK]

Spark plugs. I've never had them back out using my calibrated hand, until this one fateful day that one actually did back out.

Exhaust manifold nuts. These will require re-snugging after a heat cycle or two. The last thing you want is a leak at the head.