Future M50 swap.

[Aviator]

Well I'm getting an M50 from a 95 525 413 red label dme and wiring with a 95 M3 ZF, e30 M3 driveshaft and a 2.93 lsd diff. Also included was a brake booster and master cylinder assembly from an ix. I was hoping for an S50 or S52 swap but the deal was to good to pass up. Going in this.






The biggest question I have so far is that this swap was in an 87 e30. Mines an 84 So I'm assuming I'll have some wiring differences?

[GunMetalGrey]

You will most likely have the square plug by the fusebox instead of a c101, that is not big deal. Just have to source the wires via an ETM.
There is one important wire that runs in the glovebox that you need to get to the harness, but I cannot remember off of the top of my head.
Did an m50tu swap into a friends 84 318i and it was simple.

Actually, just saw yours is an E. The guy that I got the motor couldn't put it in his early model E because he said he didn't have a chassis side plug. But yours may be different!

[Aviator]

So, after reading a lil bit I guess I'm going to need new engine and transmission mounts? How about cooling, is the 84 M20 radiator I have going to work? The swap has e36 radiator hoses I think. Other questions are throttle linkage and the steering. I have a leaky ass old power steering system and I'm wondering what to do with it.

Would it be a good ideal to replace the h2o pump while the engine is out for a preventative maintenance item?

[Aviator]

You will most likely have the square plug by the fusebox instead of a c101, that is not big deal. Just have to source the wires via an ETM.
There is one important wire that runs in the glovebox that you need to get to the harness, but I cannot remember off of the top of my head.
Did an m50tu swap into a friends 84 318i and it was simple.

Actually, just saw yours is an E. The guy that I got the motor couldn't put it in his early model E because he said he didn't have a chassis side plug. But yours may be different!

Shit, yeah mines ancient. 11/83 build.

[GunMetalGrey]

Just make sure that you have a plug from the body to the chassis, I am sure you could work around it if you don't. But that part is just speculation

[Aviator]

The computer is in the glove box, So I need to trace the wiring to make sure there's a plug on the chassis? Would this help?

http://www.markertmotorworks.com/MMWProducts.html

[pmat]

Good luck, just completed an m50 swap myself. You will love it

[Aviator]

Well now I'm confused if I can do it or not, but yeah thanks. Sick of the weak ol m20 eta. Good engine but a 24 valve is hopefully going to be a big improvement.

[kevvve]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=266738

Go through this thread. Should help you with a lot of your questions I know it helped me with my swap that I'm doing right now.

[agent]

So, after reading a lil bit I guess I'm going to need new engine and transmission mounts?

Yes. E28 engine mounts are affordable; the Condor stuff is good but more expensive.

How about cooling, is the 84 M20 radiator I have going to work? The swap has e36 radiator hoses I think.

Replace your 30 year old radiator with this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140666708703

...and put new hoses on it. Off-the-shelf Gates ones trimmed to fit are fine. Hit up RobertK for the part numbers.

Other questions are throttle linkage and the steering. I have a leaky ass old power steering system and I'm wondering what to do with it.

E36 rack swap while the engine is out; new PS reservoir and high pressure lines.

Would it be a good ideal to replace the h2o pump while the engine is out for a preventative maintenance item?

It would be smart to replace any and everything you can afford to while the engine is out including WP, t-stat, main seals, oil filter housing gasket, etc.

[e30austin]

You will need an E30 M20B25 radiator and expansion tank, E36 rad hoses, an E34 525 throttle cable, E28 535/M5 motor mounts. You will have to do a custom wiring adapter between engine and car, as well as wire in your engine speed (tach.)

[Aviator]

Thanks guys! I think a friend of mine (Haile) said he has a set of S52 exhaust manifolds and a 413 chip. Should living up the M50 some? I'll start sourcing the mounts soon. And that seems like a good deal on that radiator Agent thanks.

This seem like a decent deal for an e36 steering rack?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Used-Remanufactured-ZF-Steering-Rack-E36-Z3-318i-323i-328i-M3-M-Roadster-OEM-/321057337625?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0823119&vxp=mtr

[agent]

...seems like a good deal on that radiator Agent thanks.

You bet. That's what I have in my 24v swap car currently and what RobertK was running when he had an S50.

[evandael]

OP, good luck! your car is beautiful btw, the color (weinrot?) and colormatched euro bumpers looks great.

buy AKG swap mounts, they are the best. some aftermarket e36 trans mounts will treat you well. a new guibo is a must, and you may as well install the shorter Z3 2.8 shift lever.

regarding the engine, an aluminum thermostat housing, new thermostat/metal impeller waterpump, and all the gaskets and seals you desire would be best. look into the Beisan VANOS seal/washer kit. do a leakdown test if possible to assess the health of the rings, headgasket, and valvetrain before you put the engine in.

performance mods for the m50tu could be 21.5# 'pinktop' injectors, s50 cams, 3.5" 540i MAF, s52 exhaust manifolds, and an appropriate chip (EAT/markD, miller WAR, TRM, etc). you may be looking at around 200hp with that setup.

additionally, a lightweight flywheel could be worth it (not necessarily a super light and super expensive aluminum one.. Fidanza/F1Racing makes a billet steel unit for around $300) pair that with a stock 240mm E36 M3 clutch and you'll have plenty of holding power.

[Aviator]

Thanks, it's actually burgundrot. One question I have is my cluster. It's obviously an eta cluster so the tach is wrong. And not only that but I think it's the reason my battery is draining because the batteries on it are dead. And the temp gauge is inop most of the time. Do I have to keep it an eta cluster because of the age of the car and just swap in a new tach part, or can I get an I tach and swap it in?