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Should i change the head gasket?

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    Should i change the head gasket?

    What do you guys think?




    Valve cover gasket looks new


    Thoughts?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

    #2
    Compression check? The valve cover gasket above it is leaking. What are your plans for the motor?

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      #3
      Originally posted by justin_l_ View Post
      Compression check? The valve cover gasket above it is leaking. What are your plans for the motor?

      Thats on my todo list. Its gonna be my daily driver but im probly gonna beat on it to an extent (i will be a lil to excited not too once its running) its got about 180,000 on it so i figure if ima do some routine maintenance now is the time. But ive had a few people tell me if it runs just leave it....


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      my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

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        #4
        like justin stated a comp test will give you an idea if you are going to need to pull the head.

        it does look like the oil came from something higher than the head gasket (valve cover gasket). if something is leaking from the head gasket a lot of times it's antifreeze.

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          #5
          Should i change the head gasket?

          Maybe thats why the valve cover gasket looks new. Maybe it was replace because of that issue i did scrape some oil dirt off the areas around the intake ports


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

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            #6
            its out of the car; have the head rebuilt professionally and Change every gasket and wear item before install would be the logical and smart thing to do.

            change nothing and just hope it is ok is the r3vtard method.



            Both will cost u time and money. R3vtard method costs alot more time and money in the end equation.
            OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

            Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



            Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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              #7
              Originally posted by Wanganstyle View Post
              its out of the car; have the head rebuilt professionally and Change every gasket and wear item before install would be the logical and smart thing to do.

              change nothing and just hope it is ok is the r3vtard method.



              Both will cost u time and money. R3vtard method costs alot more time and money in the end equation.
              Bingo. Take it off, get a valve job done, guides if it needs em, resurface to clean up the surface and eliminate any warpage. New gaskets all around. Check the chain guides too. weld that oil pump nut.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Roland H View Post
                Bingo. Take it off, get a valve job done, guides if it needs em, resurface to clean up the surface and eliminate any warpage. New gaskets all around. Check the chain guides too. weld that oil pump nut.
                160-200k miles is about when the 24V heads need to be rebuilt; and the head gaskets go.

                cylinder heads are wear items; same for gaskets. This is why they are designed to be REPLACED.
                OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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                  #9
                  Engine is out, I would. I tore down and completely rebuilt my S50 before I put it in.
                  '87 325ic, powered by S50.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Wanganstyle View Post
                    its out of the car; have the head rebuilt professionally and Change every gasket and wear item before install would be the logical and smart thing to do.

                    change nothing and just hope it is ok is the r3vtard method.



                    Both will cost u time and money. R3vtard method costs alot more time and money in the end equation.
                    who do you think we are? BMW owners? "aint nobody got time for dat!"

                    isn't the R3vtard method to just put the motor in and when it blows at 250k put in another 180k motor?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by MyE30 View Post
                      who do you think we are? BMW owners? "aint nobody got time for dat!"

                      isn't the R3vtard method to just put the motor in and when it blows at 250k put in another 180k motor?
                      The r3vtard method is to install a blown motor from the beginning because doing a leak down test is unfathomable.

                      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                      OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                      Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                      Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Wanganstyle View Post
                        The r3vtard method is to install a blown motor from the beginning because doing a leak down test is unfathomable.
                        Leak down test? Is that where you continue to dribble a little bit after taking a piss? I might need to get one of those tests done...

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                          #13
                          ok well i guess im going to do a leak down test then go and contact the Machine shop too see what the damage will be to rebuild the head. im curious what other people have paid? i had my m42 rebuilt once and they charged me 380 bucks. im assuing this will be a bit more exspensive.. maybe 5-600?

                          and since the head will be off i guess might as well replace the piston rings? lol sounds like the logical thing to do.. oh boy ive gotten myself into an expensive mess haha.
                          my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

                          Comment


                            #14
                            if your compression checks good across the board and cost is a driving factor you could leave the piston rings alone. if done by the book, replacing piston rings would cause you to have to at a minimum hone and clean the block, replace the rod bolts, replace the main bolts, and potentially replace the rod and main bearings. $$$

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                              #15
                              If the head gasket is only leaking coolant, a leak down test won't tell you anything. The gasket would had to have into one of the cylinder bores for a leak down test to tell you anything.

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