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Should i change the head gasket?

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    #16
    i dont think the head gasket is leaking anything. i thought it might be leaking oil but other people seemed to think that it was from the valve cover gasket which looks new so that probly was the case.

    wang recommends rebuilding the head since its has about 180000 on it and he does have a valid point now would be the best time since the engine is outof the car.
    my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

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      #17
      Originally posted by Mistawall View Post
      i dont think the head gasket is leaking anything. i thought it might be leaking oil but other people seemed to think that it was from the valve cover gasket which looks new so that probly was the case.

      wang recommends rebuilding the head since its has about 180000 on it and he does have a valid point now would be the best time since the engine is outof the car.
      I had the head rebuilt in my dd e36m Jan 2013; cost about 500.
      Worth it to me to have a fresh head.

      The 24v race e 30 also had its head built in august post HG failure; was about 500 as well.

      With the head off you can leak down the cylinders indivually and know the condition of the rings.


      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
      OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

      Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



      Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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        #18
        Originally posted by Mistawall View Post
        i dont think the head gasket is leaking anything. i thought it might be leaking oil but other people seemed to think that it was from the valve cover gasket which looks new so that probly was the case.

        wang recommends rebuilding the head since its has about 180000 on it and he does have a valid point now would be the best time since the engine is out of the car.
        wanganstyle, speaks the truth. now is a better time than ever to rebuild your head and replace all of the gaskets and seals on the motor. aftermarket gaskets sets are fairly inexpensive. for example, i read a forum member's post that stated he didn't replace his oil pan gasket before he swapped his motor and now whenever he's under the car or changing the oil he cries a little because now it's leaking. LOL!

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          #19
          The only issue is if there is nothing wrong with the head gasket or the cylinder head in general, pulling it open a big can of worms that will add up in price quickly. Even just pulling the head means you need a new gasket and have to have the head skimmed to be sure it is flat. To do this, you have to remove the valves, and while you're at it, why not replace the valve guides, seals, have a valve job, etc...

          I agree that replacing all other gaskets is a great idea, but I'd say if there is nothing wrong with the head/gasket, don't touch it. There is nothing to say it won't run another 100k miles without problems.

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            #20
            Nitro, a lot of machine shops do all of what you mentioned as part of rebuilding a head. If the place is not out to get you they will check the head's surface for straightness. If it's good, no material is required to be removed. I had my cylinder head serviced similar to what you described for $250; however, I had very good rapport with the machine shop and they may have just hooked me up. So your cost may vary.

            Obviously, OP it's all dependent on your budget. I'm sure most of us will agree that the cost of a semi/rebuild creeps up very quickly.

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              #21
              Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
              The only issue is if there is nothing wrong with the head gasket or the cylinder head in general, pulling it open a big can of worms that will add up in price quickly. Even just pulling the head means you need a new gasket and have to have the head skimmed to be sure it is flat. To do this, you have to remove the valves, and while you're at it, why not replace the valve guides, seals, have a valve job, etc...

              I agree that replacing all other gaskets is a great idea, but I'd say if there is nothing wrong with the head/gasket, don't touch it. There is nothing to say it won't run another 100k miles without problems.
              At the op stated milage it's worn.
              If the head is magically good the machine shop will tell you.

              Out of the 9 cylinder heads I brought to my machine shop from 2007-2013 only 2 tested good enough that they refused to rebuild it.
              3 were trash and recycled; out of the 2 good ebough to run One was an s54 head with 38k and one head had been rebuilt prior to my removal.

              Only costs about 80 bux to have a head tested in the overly expensive bay area. Pick a reputable shop that builds these all day.

              Pay for the test: then do what is suggested. If you pick a bad shop don't blame me; the one I used has closed after 40 years (owner retired Dec 2013)

              Better to know than to be sorry and feel like a r3vtard.

              No point to be afraid; if you are afraid don't bother playing the swap game.

              Gaskets are WEAR ITEMS. Wear items should be replaced when convenient. If one cannot expense the cost of a head gasket set then don't even bother attempting to 24v swap an e30.


              Cylinder heads are wear items.

              Swaps cost a ton.

              Cheaper to buy an e36m and park it next to your original engine e30 than swap a e30 to 24v properly and reliably.
              Last edited by Wanganstyle; 02-02-2014, 10:26 PM.
              OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

              Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



              Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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                #22
                spoke to the machine shop today. they cant give prices over the phone :( they said to just take everything off the head except the valves and springs and they can take care of it for me. gonna go take a crash course on removing cams :D should i cover everything to avoid getting dust in there/.? once i take the head apart
                my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Mistawall View Post
                  spoke to the machine shop today. they cant give prices over the phone :( they said to just take everything off the head except the valves and springs and they can take care of it for me. gonna go take a crash course on removing cams :D should i cover everything to avoid getting dust in there/.? once i take the head apart

                  I usually bring everything to them and pay to have it hot tank cleaned; makes life alot easier and it's inexpensive.



                  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                  OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                  Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                  Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Ok so wanted to start takin my motor apart.. Is it bad to let ot hang out in the garage dismantled? Should i cover any open oily areas to not get dust in there?
                    my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

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                      #25
                      Also i wanted to paint my block any reccomendations how to go about that? Just clean it best i can and blast it with engine enamel?
                      my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

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