Getting to trans bolts with engine in the car?

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  • Nick_S
    No R3VLimiter
    • Apr 2011
    • 3656

    #1

    Getting to trans bolts with engine in the car?

    One of the main things I've learned in doing my swap...I get impatient and rush things and often have to go back and redo them. Case in point here. I installed the motor after I pulled the M42 but didn't install it with the trans as I wasn't sure which I was using at that point. I installed the trans separate and while I can easily get to most of the bolts, the upper corner ones I cannot get to to tighten them. Even pulled the transmission mounts off so I could move it around a bit. Am I going to have to pull the whole damn thing out again? I've already got it filled with coolant and bled and would rather not have to drain, disconnect the harness and pull the whole things to get to a few bolts. I need to slow down when I'm working.

    The bolt up here
    91 318is M50 swapped
    05 Honda Pilot

    24V swap thread
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524
  • Steven
    Forum Sponsor
    • Dec 2012
    • 2305

    #2
    You can't reach it with a very long extension?

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    • Nick_S
      No R3VLimiter
      • Apr 2011
      • 3656

      #3
      No, not even with a swivel joint on a long extension could I get onto it. The car is on E28 green mounts with about 5mm of spacers and stock G240 trans mounts. I have to be doing something wrong but I spent about 45 minutes trying and I couldn't get the socket to seat the bolt, or if I did, soon I turned it it would pop off.
      91 318is M50 swapped
      05 Honda Pilot

      24V swap thread
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524

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      • 36brua
        Mod Crazy
        • Feb 2008
        • 689

        #4
        That bolt is tough- use a pry bar to compress/bend the heat shield in the tunnel to get a bit more room. use a 36" long extension- (made for trans work) with universal joint/socket at bolt end. make sure bolt is clean etc. It also helps to raise the front of the engine, loosen/remove mount bolts at subframe give a bit more room and better angle.
        go slow and make sure bolt is not cross threaded. GL
        My CA legal M60 swap

        The happening in our garage

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        • mitchlevy7
          Mod Crazy
          • Aug 2011
          • 672

          #5
          loosen the engine mounts a bunch and use a bunch of extensions...
          www.cp-e.com

          1989 Zinno 325i m52 turbo coupe
          2015 Ford Fiesta ST, Daily Driver.

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          • arch4ngel
            Mod Crazy
            • Dec 2008
            • 791

            #6
            I figured this out while doing the clutch on an m20,your mileage may vary.
            Pull a subframe bolt, go to hardware store, get 4 longer bolts with same thread pitch.
            Support the engine with hoist or jack, replace subframe bolts with longer ones.
            Carefully lower engine/subframe onto extended bolts watching for ground straps, hoses etc.

            There should be plenty of room.
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            • Swanny
              R3VLimited
              • Mar 2012
              • 2834

              #7
              ^this. Have the luxury of an engine support bar so I can drop the subframe and get more room that way.
              Swanny!
              SUCKERS.

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              • Cletonius
                R3VLimited
                • Oct 2010
                • 2809

                #8
                I need to get one of those bars. How much are they?
                - Josh
                1990 325is

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                • Nick_S
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 3656

                  #9
                  Originally posted by arch4ngel
                  I figured this out while doing the clutch on an m20,your mileage may vary.
                  Pull a subframe bolt, go to hardware store, get 4 longer bolts with same thread pitch.
                  Support the engine with hoist or jack, replace subframe bolts with longer ones.
                  Carefully lower engine/subframe onto extended bolts watching for ground straps, hoses etc.

                  There should be plenty of room.
                  Good shit man. Thanks for the advice. Quick question. Would pulling the engine mounts totally out and letting it down the couple inches create enough room Also?

                  Originally posted by Swanny
                  ^this. Have the luxury of an engine support bar so I can drop the subframe and get more room that way.
                  Like one of these?


                  The car is at my friends repair shop he owns so I have access to 3 lifts, engine hoists, tranny jacks...really about any tool under the sun. However I'm working alone on the weekends so I'm still learning ALOT as the most I had done before this was brakes and oil changes. The good thing, his shop shares a parking lot with a NAPA store so if I need parts I walk 60 ft.
                  Last edited by Nick_S; 02-08-2014, 12:08 PM.
                  91 318is M50 swapped
                  05 Honda Pilot

                  24V swap thread
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524

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                  • Swanny
                    R3VLimited
                    • Mar 2012
                    • 2834

                    #10
                    That is exactly what I'm talking about
                    Swanny!
                    SUCKERS.

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                    • arch4ngel
                      Mod Crazy
                      • Dec 2008
                      • 791

                      #11
                      No worries.
                      Good question, I wouldn't think so but might be worth a try.
                      With the longer bolts you have the peace of mind knowing you're motor and subframe are being supported properly while you work.
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                      • Poeman446
                        Wrencher
                        • Jun 2013
                        • 227

                        #12
                        On the M20 and Getrag 260, I took off the trans brace on the rear of the engine, had a buddy pull down on the back of the trans pretty hard, and I had 20" of 1/2" drive extensions with a knuckle, 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter and the torx socket. It was quite a setup. It wasn't easy, that's for sure, but it could have been much harder. The super long extensions are a must, and I would recommend going even longer than 20". Good Luck!

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                        • Poorboyz
                          R3VLimited
                          • May 2012
                          • 2117

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Poeman446
                          I took off the trans brace on the rear of the engine, had a buddy pull down on the back of the trans pretty hard
                          And that is how you tear up engine mounts...



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                          • Poeman446
                            Wrencher
                            • Jun 2013
                            • 227

                            #14
                            Of course it is, but it was a junkyard car, so I didn't give a shit. I suppose I should have mentioned that in the post. I would take the nuts off of the motor mounts and use a hoist to pull it off the mounts, and then try the same thing. You just have to be careful with the cooling system and electrical connections.

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                            • RoadHazard
                              Advanced Member
                              • Sep 2007
                              • 163

                              #15
                              I've pulled the tranny a couple times by myself using arch4ngel's method. Without those long bolts, you'd have a hard time getting the holes on the subframe to line up when putting everything back together.

                              When you install the tranny, you might want to grab another two long bolts then cut the heads off. Screw those in a couple tranny bolt holes and use them as a guide to slide the tranny in.
                              90 E30 S50B30
                              http://www.fquick.com/roadhazard/

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