Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Best way to clean the surface of the pistons?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    You can use the mopar stuff with or without the engine together. There's plenty of threads out there if you do a Google search.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
    -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

    Comment


      #17
      why bother getting rid of all the carbon so it is spotless? unless you have thick areas that might create a hot spot you are hurting performance making it shiny. the carbon acts to insulate the piston and provide a slight combustion efficiency improvement via changes in pressures and temps in the chamber.

      many people deliberately texture the surface via bead blasting to promote a thin uniform layer of carbon build up since this is cheaper than $40-$60 per piston for a ceramic coated crown.....
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

      Comment


        #18
        Wasefi,

        i just tackled this project and I used the following:

        Terry cloth 800 and 1000 grit
        sanding block
        Scotchbrite green pad
        seafoam cleaniner.
        straight edge to keep everything level
        and feeler gauge to check clearance on the deck

        The top of my block looks machined, its nice and clean as well as my bottom end (Oil pan mating surface)

        You can checkout my instagram for photos of the cleaning.

        Hope this helps brotha!
        DESTROY GARAGE
        S T R E E T S T Y L E


        @CRISMACSTUDIO


        FREE SHELL, COME GET IT!

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by digger View Post
          why bother getting rid of all the carbon so it is spotless? unless you have thick areas that might create a hot spot you are hurting performance making it shiny. the carbon acts to insulate the piston and provide a slight combustion efficiency improvement via changes in pressures and temps in the chamber.

          many people deliberately texture the surface via bead blasting to promote a thin uniform layer of carbon build up since this is cheaper than $40-$60 per piston for a ceramic coated crown.....
          interesting, I did not know that this is desirable. Is there a reason new pistons are not as susceptible to this, or do manufacturers factor possible damage into designing break-in procedures?
          cars beep boop

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by kronus View Post
            interesting, I did not know that this is desirable. Is there a reason new pistons are not as susceptible to this, or do manufacturers factor possible damage into designing break-in procedures?
            susceptible to what ? shiny pistons will eventually carbon up just takes alot longer and you may not get the same thickness of build up. bead blasting is an added process that costs money. ive seen new mahle OEM pistons with definitive machining marks on the crown and they are far from polished. pretty stuff rarely goes fast.
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

            Comment


              #21
              the new forged JE pistons I have on the shelf have very shiny tops..

              when you say bead blasting, do you specifically want something less abrasive than sand? I've got a sandblaster and a set of now-clean pistons that were going to go in tonight..
              cars beep boop

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by kronus View Post
                the new forged JE pistons I have on the shelf have very shiny tops..

                when you say bead blasting, do you specifically want something less abrasive than sand? I've got a sandblaster and a set of now-clean pistons that were going to go in tonight..
                aftermarket will be shiny by default (JE do offer a brushed and milled crown which is a less shiny surface and sharp edges blended), if they are new its fine to leave as is. just i wouldn't go spending alot of time cleaning used pistons

                bead blasting is different medium to sand blasting. sand blasting is a bit too aggressive. i dont know the exact medium that works best.
                Last edited by digger; 04-16-2014, 05:29 PM.
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                Comment


                  #23
                  started off like this when I first pulled the head off
                  ,


                  Sprayed a little brake cleaner and let it soften up, then wiped it with a microfiber towel.
                  Untitled

                  after about 30 mins of spraying and wiping... this was my result and how it sits now.(ran out of brake cleaner :-|)
                  Untitled
                  Your signature picture has been removed. Refer to the Signature and Avatar Guidelines in The Rules.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    The head looks pretty! New valve guides, valve stem seal, and a 3.5 degree valve job.
                    Your signature picture has been removed. Refer to the Signature and Avatar Guidelines in The Rules.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      wow, your head is beautiful :o I am doing the same on my m44, im just gonna use some mineral spirits and a microfiber towel on the block surface and pistons and gonna give the head to a shop. hopefully it works. Ive had the head pulled for a few months now while im away at school and noticed some rust developing in the coolant passages :/

                      Comment


                        #26
                        With the engine on a stand, why not bring it to be rebuilt?

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by butters View Post
                          With the engine on a stand, why not bring it to be rebuilt?
                          Honestly, I thought about it and I just cant afford it at the moment. Just because if I go that route I will end up spending a lot of money on quality/performance parts.
                          Your signature picture has been removed. Refer to the Signature and Avatar Guidelines in The Rules.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by Wasefi View Post
                            Honestly, I thought about it and I just cant afford it at the moment. Just because if I go that route I will end up spending a lot of money on quality/performance parts.
                            Rod and main bearings and bolts plus ring sets, OE quality, will run $500 from Blunt. To me that is very cheap insurance and a low price for the peace of mind it brings. With the engine on the stand you will save time/money doing it now vs. down the road. My 2 cents..

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by butters View Post
                              Rod and main bearings and bolts plus ring sets, OE quality, will run $500 from Blunt.
                              Sorry, but this is flat out wrong. OE piston rings for an s52 run $112.19 PER CYLINDER from ECS (Blunt will not price match ECS). Which brings you over the budget you allocated, and all you bought was rings.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X