Comprehensive brake booster thread for S5x and M5x swaps

[NickL]

1987 325is.
M50 obd1
Porsche 944 booster
Stock e30 master
Shaft needs threaded all the way down, threads are same pitch as oem clevis
Felt same as stock.

New setup:
1987 325is
M50 Obd1
Massive booster delete
E21 master cylinder, pedal assembly must be removed and modified, new brake lines flared and ran to fronts.
Pedal feel is actually close to the factory setup, a bit stiffer but not terrible. Braking power has suffered a small amount from factory calipers. Once upgraded, everything should be fine. I also plan to plumb a bias valve in line.

[Jib05]

-Year and model of your E30: 1987 320i
-Intake manifold used in swap: m50
-Brake booster donor car: 2001 plastic winged clio
-Brake booster part number: (if known)
-Brake booster manufacturer and manufacturer PN or identifying marks:
-Parts needed: , stock master cylinder bolts on
-Modifications needed: I had to add a piece of rod between the master piston and booster. Drill factory clevis slightly bigger.
-Comments on pedal feel and stopping power: no expert on brakes but to me they feel much better than factory. Pedal doesn't sink as far any more

My comments : tiny booster heaps of clearance, and at 70 nzd a bargain. Edit: right hand drive

[Thujalvi]

-Year and model of your E30: 1993 Touring
-Intake manifold used in swap: M52TU
-Brake booster donor car: Stock '93
-Brake booster part number: 34331157416 (According to bmwfans.org)
-Brake booster manufacturer and manufacturer PN or identifying marks: ATE
-Modifications needed: You might want to rotate the engine away from the booster, as mine is almost touching it with Condor motor mounts.

I found that the iX/M5/735i(?) (I tried with an M5 booster/master) booster wouldn't fit with the M52TU intake manifold at all, and I'd presume it's much the same with an M54.

[fiveightandten]

-Year and model of your E30: 1987 es
-Intake manifold used in swap: m50
-Brake booster donor car: 1990 VW Jetta 8 valve
-Brake booster part number: (if known)
-Brake booster manufacturer and manufacturer PN or identifying marks: A1 Cardone reman
-Parts needed: no parts needed, stock master cylinder bolts on
-Modifications needed: I had to add a piece of rod between the master piston and booster. No big deal. I had cut the rod to the pedal and thread. It is the correct diameter already.
-Comments on pedal feel and stopping power: I have not driven it extensively, but it stops great.

My comments are: to me there are no other reasons to get any other booster. This things bolts on the stock holes, master bolts on great. I had my fins sanded off, but I don't think it had to be done.

Sweet. Thanks for the info. If you can confirm any other years or models that booster is in, i'll add them in.

[meanEG]

-Year and model of your E30: 1987 es
-Intake manifold used in swap: m50
-Brake booster donor car: 1990 VW Jetta 8 valve
-Brake booster part number: (if known)
-Brake booster manufacturer and manufacturer PN or identifying marks: A1 Cardone reman 535730
-Parts needed: no parts needed, stock master cylinder bolts on
-Modifications needed: I had to add a piece of rod between the master piston and booster. No big deal. I had cut the rod to the pedal and thread. It is the correct diameter already.
-Comments on pedal feel and stopping power: I have not driven it extensively, but it stops great.

My comments are: to me there are no other reasons to get any other booster. This things bolts on the stock holes, master bolts on great. I had my fins sanded off, but I don't think it had to be done. Best part, you can get a reman for $83 at autozone, and its a local warehouse stocking item.

[fiveightandten]

I've seen some conflicting information on brake boosters, and the FAQ's seem to be outdated. Is there a thread or resource with info on all the booster options? If not, can we start one here?

There seems to be some confusion in past threads over which year cars these boosters can come out of. I'd like to make a list of every booster that's compatible with the swaps, and boosters from similar cars that are NOT compatible.

If you have done a swap, list the booster that you used. Please cut and paste with the following info:

-Year and model of your E30: (Fill in)
-Intake manifold used in swap: (Fill in)
-Brake booster donor car: Year and model
-Brake booster part number: (if known)
-Brake booster manufacturer and manufacturer PN or identifying marks: (if known)
-Parts needed: Be specific about what MC and reservoir you used, or any other parts
-Modifications needed: Any mods that needed to be performed, such as shortening the shaft and re-threading, any welding, or firewall modifications.
-Comments on pedal feel and stopping power: Compared to stock, or compared with other boosters if you have that experience.
-Other info: Booster diameter or other dimensions. Any other helpful info.

Below, I will keep a text list and update it as info comes in. It's pretty bare right now, as I want all the info here to be confirmed before adding any. I will also keep a spreadsheet, and once it has a reasonable amount of info, i'll throw it up on google docs or something for easy download.

I'd like to try and keep this referenced by part number whenever possible.

Text list of compatible boosters, by application:

E30 325ix
Part number: 34331161486
Source cars: '88, '89, '90, '91 E30 325ix coupe or sedan
Parts needed: 325ix Booster, Reservoir, Master.
Modifications needed: Remove spacer, Cut about 1” off the rod, grind/rethread rod, elongate file firewall holes to fit booster studs, bend brake lines to fit master, file fins on intake manifold.
Comments on functionality:
Other info: I was led to believe the iX booster fit with the spacer, but after looking at another car, I can't see how that's possible when the master hits the intake boot without the spacer. (Nothern)

E32 735i or 735iL
Part number: BMW 34331161486, Cardone 53-2934
Source cars: '88, '89, '90 E32 735i or 735iL
Parts needed:
Modifications needed:
Comments on functionality:

1990 VW Jetta
Part number: (not known)
Source cars: 1990 VW Jetta 8 valve, and 1996-1999 (likely other years or models, but not confirmed)
Parts needed: None. Stock E30 master cylinder bolts to the VW booster.
Modifications needed: Need to add a piece of rod between the master piston and booster. Cut the rod to the pedal and thread it. (meanEG)
Comments on functionality: Comments on pedal feel and stopping power: I have not driven it extensively, but it stops great. (meanEG)
Other info: Diameter: approx 10” at firewall and 8 7/8” at engine bay side.

1996 to 1999 VW Jetta
Part number: W01331598294ATE (Stock VW, ATE brand)
Source cars: 1996-1999 (likely other years or models, but not confirmed)
Parts needed: None. Stock E30 master cylinder bolts to the VW booster.
Modifications needed: Rod must be cut to size then rethreaded or to me it was more easy to just cut it and weld on the E30 adjustable end to it. Had to mod the rod that pushes master cylinder, I had to extend it, welded 7mm rod so that is at same height as E30. Plastic clip that holds the brake line behind the booster had to be trimmed down. (desertBMW)
Comments on functionality:
Other info: Diameter:

Porsche 944
Part number: (not known)
Source cars: 1984 Porsche 994 turbo, other years not confirmed
Parts needed: None. Stock E30 master cylinder bolts to the VW booster.
Modifications needed: Shaft needs to be threaded all the way down. Threads are the same pitch as the OEM clevis (NickL)
Comments on functionality: Feels stock. Tight fit with OBDI manifold (2 to 3 mm with fins shaved) (mpowerful).
Other info:

Renaut Clio
Part number: (not known)
Source cars: 2001 Plastic winged Clio (likely other years or models, but not confirmed)
Parts needed: Stock E30 master cylinder bolts to the booster.
Modifications needed: Need to add a piece of rod between the master piston and booster. Drill factory clevis slightly bigger (Jib05)
Comments on functionality: no expert on brakes but to me they feel much better than factory. Pedal doesn't sink as far any more (Jib05)
Other info: Tiny booster with heaps of clearance

Here are the part numbers I pulled from Real OEM that are known to be compatible, and part numbers from cars that are similar to the ones with known compatible boosters.