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what to use for raising the engine?

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    what to use for raising the engine?

    I'm using my M50 exhaust manifold on my swap but the front one is too low and the brace and the sway bar are in the way therefore I cannot attached it to the exhaust. I read that you need to raise the engine by 5 mm but I think I need more so I'm asking of what to do or should I go to a machine shop and ask to do a thick washer and place it between the motor mount and the motor?

    #2
    41 views and no response? has anyone use the M50 OEM exhaust manifold and have problem connecting the rest of the exhaust having the brace and sway bar in the way?
    Last edited by amcink; 06-17-2014, 11:29 AM.

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      #3
      I didnt use that manifold but i did raise my engine a bit on drivers side. Used washers. Works fine.

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        #4
        Stack up some washers if you're going to raise the engine up.

        Now the problem with this method as I'm sure someone will soon point out is that you will then have the front of the engine/transmission higher than the rear, which becomes a problem when it comes to the guibo. It's now not only rotating, but it's being 'bent' by the transmission not being in line with the driveshaft.

        I had thought about trying to space the transmission as well to match the engine but the problem is that the driveshaft will not make up for that as the u joint is behind the CSB and won't allow for the misalignment on that end.
        For all things 24v, check out Markert Motorworks!
        Originally posted by mbonanni
        I hate modded emtree, I hate modded cawrz, I hate jdm, I hate swag, I hate stanceyolokids, I hate bags (on cars), I hate stuff that is slowz, I hate tires.

        I am a pursit now.

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          #5
          I just had an exhaust shop cut and reshape my s52 header, it wasn't't too expensive as my total cost was $900 for a full custom mandrel system, header mod included. Is the m50 manifold cast like m20 ones??
          1990 332i, 4 door
          2008 KTM 990 Superduke
          2018 Golf R, 6spd manual (Pending delivery)
          2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
          2007 Z4M Coupe - Sold to very nice people

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            #6
            The OBD1 manifolds are cast. Steel tube replacements are cheap, and as roysneon pointed out there are some really questionable effects of raising the engine at one mount. Correct the exhaust, not the engine position.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Roysneon View Post
              Stack up some washers if you're going to raise the engine up.

              Now the problem with this method as I'm sure someone will soon point out is that you will then have the front of the engine/transmission higher than the rear, which becomes a problem when it comes to the guibo. It's now not only rotating, but it's being 'bent' by the transmission not being in line with the driveshaft.

              I had thought about trying to space the transmission as well to match the engine but the problem is that the driveshaft will not make up for that as the u joint is behind the CSB and won't allow for the misalignment on that end.
              Its been ~3 years since I shimmed my motor (somewhat unintentionally) and my guibo and CSB are still good. I'm not saying it isn't kind of ghetto, but I've experienced no terrible side effects.
              Originally posted by priapism
              My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
              Originally posted by shameson
              Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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                #8
                I used around 3/4" of washers to get my exhaust manifolds to clear. I've had the same driveshaft for the last 70K miles.

                Originally posted by whysimon
                WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                  #9
                  I have a set of obd2 manifolds for sale if those are better. Hit me up if your interested

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                    #10
                    Go with the s52 manifolds direct fit and tubular.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by FredK View Post
                      I used around 3/4" of washers to get my exhaust manifolds to clear. I've had the same driveshaft for the last 70K miles.
                      Is that on both sides, or just the exhaust side?

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                        #12
                        Thanks guys, I'll try some of this I will change to M52 headers later; but I need to do M50 now since I'm BARing the car and all components need to be OBD1

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                          #13
                          head bolt washers

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