Over the past few years I have encountered many issues with my 24v swap and I always wished that a comprehensive thread existed showing people’s problems and their associated solutions. I have spent countless hours searching many forums and speaking with friends and mechanics to figure out the specific solution for me. My hope is that this thread will help others in the future without wasting a ton of time scouring the internet. Anyways onto the list:
Problem: When the engine was running very warm after a spirited drive and while coasting down a hill, it was backfiring pretty severely. When I parked, the check engine light came on and the car was having trouble starting and would stall trying to idle.
Solution: The first thing to do is smoke test the car for vacuum leaks. This was my problem and one of the hoses was indeed cracked under the intake manifold. I promptly ordered a new piece and replaced it which fixed the problem.
Problem: Car was idling a little rough (engine was vibrating but idle stayed right around 850 RPM) and had a slight “pop” in the exhaust every 5 to 10 seconds.
Solution: I read a few threads where people were having the same issue with their e36’s. I read that many of them were using NGK BKR6EK coppers and switched to the NGK BKR6EQUP platinum’s. I did the same, which produced a better idle for me. I also replaced the valve cover gasket since there was some slight oil in the plug holes which tends to cause arching and a rough idle.
Problem: My car was having slight trouble starting and all the lights on the dash were faintly flickering. Of course I decided to drive the car down a two-lane road to my apartment in the rain. The car’s engine stalled in the pitch darkness and the lights went out.
Solution: The alternator failed. I ended up buying a brand new one and no more issue (Lesson: Do NOT buy a refurnished alternator)
Problem: I parked my car after a quick few mile drive and the idle was extremely rough. I tried driving around the block and it had barely any power when I pressed on the gas and wanted to stall at idle if I didn’t feather the pedal. I also did a stomp test for the CEL and an oxygen sensor code came up. The problem went away for a minute then came back.
Solution: Of course the oxygen sensor was failing and was not sending the proper signal to the DME. I replaced the O2 sensor, which resolved the issue.
Problem: I was hearing a bad rattling noise from the front of the engine around 1500 to 2500 RPM. It sounded like something was hitting the valve cover. I also felt a loss in torque while accelerating. A friend of mine told me that it was definitely the VANOS unit.
Solution: I either had the option to buy a Dr VANOS unit or Beisan Systems repair kit. I opted for the Beisan kit since it was cheaper which replaces the seal and spacer in the unit. Put everything back together and the rattle was gone.
This one is not a solution, but is a great place to find codes for the stomp test: http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...iagnostic.html.
I'm sure I have others that I am not remembering so I will update as they come to me. The main way to resolve issues with these engines is to troubleshoot starting with the cheapest solution and progressing until the proper solution is found. Patience is also key!
This thread is open for everyone to post their problems and solutions for the 24V engine so please feel free to add on to the list. My hope is that these will provide some insight into fixing similar problems.
Thanks,
Ian
Problem: When the engine was running very warm after a spirited drive and while coasting down a hill, it was backfiring pretty severely. When I parked, the check engine light came on and the car was having trouble starting and would stall trying to idle.
Solution: The first thing to do is smoke test the car for vacuum leaks. This was my problem and one of the hoses was indeed cracked under the intake manifold. I promptly ordered a new piece and replaced it which fixed the problem.
Problem: Car was idling a little rough (engine was vibrating but idle stayed right around 850 RPM) and had a slight “pop” in the exhaust every 5 to 10 seconds.
Solution: I read a few threads where people were having the same issue with their e36’s. I read that many of them were using NGK BKR6EK coppers and switched to the NGK BKR6EQUP platinum’s. I did the same, which produced a better idle for me. I also replaced the valve cover gasket since there was some slight oil in the plug holes which tends to cause arching and a rough idle.
Problem: My car was having slight trouble starting and all the lights on the dash were faintly flickering. Of course I decided to drive the car down a two-lane road to my apartment in the rain. The car’s engine stalled in the pitch darkness and the lights went out.
Solution: The alternator failed. I ended up buying a brand new one and no more issue (Lesson: Do NOT buy a refurnished alternator)
Problem: I parked my car after a quick few mile drive and the idle was extremely rough. I tried driving around the block and it had barely any power when I pressed on the gas and wanted to stall at idle if I didn’t feather the pedal. I also did a stomp test for the CEL and an oxygen sensor code came up. The problem went away for a minute then came back.
Solution: Of course the oxygen sensor was failing and was not sending the proper signal to the DME. I replaced the O2 sensor, which resolved the issue.
Problem: I was hearing a bad rattling noise from the front of the engine around 1500 to 2500 RPM. It sounded like something was hitting the valve cover. I also felt a loss in torque while accelerating. A friend of mine told me that it was definitely the VANOS unit.
Solution: I either had the option to buy a Dr VANOS unit or Beisan Systems repair kit. I opted for the Beisan kit since it was cheaper which replaces the seal and spacer in the unit. Put everything back together and the rattle was gone.
This one is not a solution, but is a great place to find codes for the stomp test: http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...iagnostic.html.
I'm sure I have others that I am not remembering so I will update as they come to me. The main way to resolve issues with these engines is to troubleshoot starting with the cheapest solution and progressing until the proper solution is found. Patience is also key!
This thread is open for everyone to post their problems and solutions for the 24V engine so please feel free to add on to the list. My hope is that these will provide some insight into fixing similar problems.
Thanks,
Ian
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