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    Ian's E30 LS1 Swap

    THE INTRODUCTION
    My hope is that this thread helps to answer some questions that people may have about the LS-swap process into an e30. I know this has been documented pretty well, but this was my take on the process. I would be happy to help anyone who has questions. The process was expensive, but hopefully worth the end result.

    THE IDEA – SCRAP THE TURBO FOR LS POWER
    Late 2022 I decided to embark on a new direction for the e30. The s52 swap was fun while it lasted, but I was in search of more power. I was about 60% into a parts horde for a turbo s52 setup when I had a discussion with a few close friends. After a few hours of back and forth, I was convinced I wanted to stay naturally aspirated with the car. Then began the process of selling the turbo parts and sourcing LS parts with some “upgrades”. The idea was to have a “reliable” N/A build for canyon/track use with the potential in the future to bump the power further (which inevitably will happen).

    In January of 2023, the process began of removing the s52 engine, transmission, driveshaft, and differential. The removal was fairly straight forward and took a couple days. At the same time I was working on sourcing an LS1 and T56 and stumbled upon a local shop (a couple hours away) that specialized in providing the whole package.

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    THE BEGINNING – ADDRESS THE BRAKES AND FUEL
    I had a few items to check off my list before the engine and transmission could go into the car. The brakes/booster needed to be addressed along with the stock fuel pump. More power meant bigger brakes were required. Additionally, there was not a chance that the booster was going to fit with the big v8 going into the engine bay.

    To fill the void of the large booster, I decided to run the Massive Lee dual master booster-delete setup with remove reservoirs. A Tilton 72-250 balance bar was used with (2) Tilton 76-750 master cylinders, and a 3-chamber Tilton reservoir. The lines were all custom -4AN lines to the new masters as well as the clutch master. Unfortunately, during the process of power bleeding, the Tilton 3-chamber reservoir leaked like crazy and I was informed by Tilton that this setup could only be manually bled. Well, that wasn’t the answer I wanted, so I ended up purchasing 3 individual reservoirs from Tilton and fabricated a custom bracket. This was a much better solution and in hindsight I should have gone this route from the start.

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    The decision was made to go to Massive Lee for larger brakes and purchase his 300x32 kit for the front and rear of the car. The plan at the time was to run a 15” wheel setup to keep rotational mass down. The kit was very high quality and the parts used were all Wilwood components.

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    Fortunately, I had also sourced a DW300C fuel pump with an e30 kit along and a Painless 30-amp relay kit prior with future plans to run more fuel. The installation was straightforward, replacing the pump and wiring in the relay kit. The e30 fuel pump wire from the C101 could now be used as a trigger wire without frying the existing fuse/wiring. An awesome video that shows the process is by Bryan Sturman – BMW E30/E36. M52 24V Turbo Drift Build Ep. 15 Fuel Pump Relay DIY.

    The plan was to eventually be able to run e85 fuel, so the tank was dropped, and all lines were replaced with e85 compatible hose. I opted to retain the stock fuel tank since the location keeps a great overall balance. Eventually I may add a small reserve tank in the rear since I’m sure the LS will be thirsty, but for now this solution should work.

    THE PURCHASE – LET’S MAKE SOME POWER
    After some discussion with the owner of a local LS supplier, we decided to source a low mileage LS1/T56 combination. I wanted some easy bolt on upgrades, so we went with the following:

    LS1 and Upgrades
    -LS1 5.7L
    -243/799 Heads

    -BTR Stage 3 N/A Cam
    -BBK 80mm Throttle Body
    -LS6 Intake Manifold
    -LS7 Lifter Trays/Bolts
    -High Flow Oil Pump
    -Oil Filter Relocation Kit with Moroso 22460 Race Filter
    -Bosch 36lb injectors (0280155811)
    -TSP LS2 Ignition Coils, ICT Billet Bracket, and MSD Ignition Wires
    -LS7 Clutch and Flywheel (Steel FW/14061685 Pilot Bearing)
    -Moroso 20138 Oil Pan, 24052 Pick Up Tube, 25970 Dip Stick Tube
    -LS6 Steam Vent Pipe (12602544) and Plugs (12602540)
    -Moroso 71162 Flywheel Dust Cover

    THE PICK-UP – LS AND T56 IN OUR POSSESSION
    My brother-in-law and I drove picked up the engine, transmission, and Holley parts at the end of January and I spent the next couple weeks getting the heart ready for its new home. The flywheel and clutch were installed and the throw out bearing was shimmed and adjusted. The Sikky headers were also mounted, and they looked awesome! BUT there was a hurdle on the horizon.

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    Last edited by ian e30 318is; 10-03-2023, 03:58 PM.

    1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
    Instagram:
    https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
    LS Build Thread:
    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

    #2
    THE ADDITIONS – MORE PARTS REQUIRED
    At the same time I was also sourcing additional swap parts from various vendors. This is just a dump of all the parts I used on the swap…
    -Pennsyltucky Motor/Transmission Mounts
    -AKG E30 Engine Mount and Tick Performance Transmission Mount
    -Condor Airbag Steering Shaft
    -Hawks Short Shifter Kit
    -Race German Power Steering Delete (To be replaced later with power)
    -Sikky Long Tube Headers
    -Sikky E30 Fuel Line Kit with Corvette Regulator/Filter (Allows for removal of e30 filter)
    -Sikky LS Swap Coolant Hose Kit
    -Sikky T56 CAGS and Reverse Lock Out
    -ChaseBays E30 LS Clutch Line and Remote Bleed
    -IRP E30 Spherical CAB Mounts
    -IRP Front Strut Bar (To fit above the engine/fit great!)
    -MightMouse Catch Can with LS Head Mount
    -Pegasus Racing for 3.5” Intake Silicone Tubes/Clamps
    -3.5” Carbon 45 Degree from Intake Hoses
    -AEM 3.5" Filter 21-2047DK

    THE SWAP – SHOVE THIS PIG IN THE BAY AND ASSEMBLE
    The hoist was acquired from another friend, and we were ready to mount this beast in its place. The following weekend we had the engine and transmission in its new home with lots of prying, cursing, bleeding, etc. The LS was a tight fit in the e30 and lots of hammering was required. The transmission opening on the top of the tunnel also needed to be clearanced for the Tick Performance shifter. Nothing a grinder couldn’t handle. Sikky has a great video in their e30 LS 2 swap project series demonstrating the portions of the bay and tunnel that need to be hammered and shaved. Check out BMW E30 LS2 Build Pt 4 video. The engine/transmission installation took us around 5-6 hours.

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    Once the LS and T56 were in place, it was time to start assembling all the other pieces around the engine. The first on the list was the Condor steering shaft. Once we were under the car and started assembling, we knew we had a problem. The Sikky headers were rubbing the steering shaft. So down the rabbit hole we traveled. We ended up removing the driver side header, pie cutting the tube in question, and machining down the steering shaft. So far this solution seems to have worked. This was likely caused by not utilizing the Sikky engine/transmission mounts, but I’m not too sure at this point.

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    Next on the list was the throttle cable since I opted to go away from DBW. I used a Lokar LS1 36" Throttle Cable TC-1000LS1 with Lokar TCB-40LS1 bracket. The installation was straightforward with the cable routed from the e30 pedal through the firewall and up to the throttle body. The longest part of the process was the adjustment of the throttle blade and cable.


    Last edited by ian e30 318is; 10-03-2023, 04:00 PM.

    1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
    Instagram:
    https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
    LS Build Thread:
    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

    Comment


      #3
      THE BRAINS – HOLLEY ECU, DIGITAL DASH, AND HARNESS
      I decided to go with the Holley Terminator X ECU and their 7” digital dash for the brain of the build. The kit came with the wiring harness but was missing the alternator wire which I purchased from Holley (PN: 179-400). My plan was to route the Holley harness to the C101 and repin with the BMW tool. I also purchased Wiring Specialties coil pack harness and grounding kit. The kit was powered back to the battery with the additional power harness kit provided.

      Below are a list of pins that were derived from the 318is wiring diagram with the corresponding terminator colors from the harness.

      Terminator X and E30 C101 Wiring
      -12V Switched Power – E30 Green Pin 7 – Terminator Red/White
      -Starter – E30 Black/Yellow Pint 18 – Directly to Starter Block
      -12V Battery – E30 N/A – Terminator Red
      -12V Fuel Pump – E30 Green/Violet Pin 13 – Termintor Green (this serves as a signal wire to the upgraded fuel pump relay)
      - Chassis Ground – E30 N/A – Terminator Black (Routed to Battery Negative or Ground)
      -Alternator – E30 Blue Pin 1 – Holley External Yellow 179-400 Plug

      The wiring diagram provided by Holley was easy to figure out. I decided to run sensors for display on the digital dash. All the sensors could be calibrated in the Holley program. The Lowdollar 100psi fuel sensor was connected directly to the fuel rail with an -4AN to 1/8” NPT adapter and calibrated in the software. The oil pressure sensor and coolant temperature sensors were both GM products and the PN’s are 12677836 and 12608814, respectively. These were also calibrated in the system under the Sensor Tab as well.

      The Holley digital dash needed to be mounted and I did not want to keep the old cluster. I hit the Ebay market and stumbled upon user thaison1864 who had a painted metal dash that was perfect for my application for $35 (how can you beat that!). Drilled some holes and mounted up the dash without any issues.

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      I still needed a solution for the fuel level. My initial plan was to utilize the Holley dash to display the fuel level, but after some research this solution was going to be expensive due to the need to buy a new input/output harness and some other overkill parts. I ended up opting for Speed Hut programmable fuel gauge and cut a nice new hole in the blank holder. Wired up the sender, some power wires, and calibrated for empty/full conditions. Worked like a charm!

      THE COOLING – KEEPING THE BEAST COOL
      I wanted to keep the Z3M radiator, e30 coolant overflow, and Spal fans that were already used with the previous swap. Unfortunately, there weren’t any hose kits on the market to make this work. I purchased a bunch of different fittings, clamps, and adapters from Pegasus Racing to make the radiator piping work as intended.

      I also wanted to keep the heater core in the car, which was made possible by the Sikky kit. The installation isn’t the most aesthetically appealing, but it should work for my purposes. I would highly recommend installing the rear hoses before slamming the engine into the car to make the installation easier.

      THE DRIVELINE – NEED TO PUT THE POWER DOWN *WITHOUT BREAKING*
      To put down the power, I decided to upgrade to a 4.10 medium case LSD with new clutches, a secondary mount, and DSS axles (these were expensive so hoping they hold up). My good friend Justin helped me build the differential and I ended up utilizing the differential spacer/stud kit from Condor to clearance the DSS differential adapter (4-bolt to 1310 U-joint) for the custom driveshaft. The custom driveshaft was built by Oceanside Driveline and Jeff was fantastic to work with. Great customer service and quick turn-around. The front of the driveshaft utilizes a 27-spline input with a removable yolk to be able to bolt the rear end of the driveshaft into the differential.

      The DSS axles should have a disclaimer…these are advertised as direct fit but do require clearance work at the rear trailing arm. I spent several hours with a die grinder and flap disc opening up the axle hole and shaving off the lower tab to be able to fit these bad boys. There is also a great video online by Jimmy Oakes where he shows the clearance process for larger axles (his are e34 but the process is the same).

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      THE START-UP AND FIRST DRIVE – FINGERS CROSSED
      After we felt comfortable with the install, we filled fluids (engine oil, transmission oil, water/coolant, fuel, etc.). The start tune was double checked and we had power to all components. Well here goes nothing…key in ignition, switch to start position, and cross our fingers. SHE FIRED RIGHT UP!! Idled like a champ! Ran super rich with the learn turned off, but it ran!

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      The first time I was able to “drive” the car was to load it on the trailer to take to the exhaust shop. The O2 sensor was unplugged with learn off, so ran rich again, but was able to drive it on/off the trailer.

      THE PLANS – ADDITIONS AND GETTING EVERYTHING SORTED
      There are still a few items that need to be completed. The plan is to have the car running and driving by the end of November of this year. The excitement of seeing a light at the end of the tunnel is starting to consume me. I am so close to the finish line!

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      The car is currently at Spec Fab for exhaust work. The plan is to run dual oval 3” from the headers to a single 3.5” oval, back to a Spintech muffler, and out of the rear of the car. Originally, I wanted to run a side-dump exhaust out of the rear quarter panel, but after more thought about fumes and noise, I decided against the idea.

      After the exhaust is complete, the plan is to have the suspension adjusted and aligned by a close friend of mine in the BMW community. Then we are driving and self-tuning! Once the car drives, we are off to Excelsior Motorsports for a full dyno tuning session.

      The steering obviously felt heavy without power steering. I needed a solution without a belt driven pump. After some research and talking to a few people, I decided to go with the solution of a Volvo power steering pump (PN: 36050678). There are plenty of people using this solution on drift/race cars. The pump is currently ordered and on its way. The plan is to install with -6AN lines and mount the pump in the trunk of the car to help with weight.

      The LS is notorious for oil starvation. Not to worry, I have a solution for that as well. I currently have a Canton Accusump with -10AN Vibrant lines ready to go in after the car is driven for a break in period. The plan is to install during the next oil change and mount this in the trunk along with the power steering pump. An Improved Racing check valve will also be installed to prevent flow in the wrong direction.

      Man, what a journey this swap has been. Compared to a 24v valve swap, this is multitudes more difficult. What did I expect though? And who cares at this point right! I can’t wait to drive this beast!

      Last edited by ian e30 318is; 11-15-2023, 07:21 AM.

      1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
      Instagram:
      https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
      LS Build Thread:
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

      Comment


        #4
        Hey, my name is Ian and I also have an LSe30. Nice job!

        What trans crossmember did you use?
        84 325e - 91 325i - 92 318 touring - 91 Trans Am - 01 S4 avant - 03 S-type R - 96 F350
        Manual swap all the things!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by iansane View Post
          Hey, my name is Ian and I also have an LSe30. Nice job!

          What trans crossmember did you use?
          Awesome! I used the Pennsyltucky tranmission cross member. Bolts into the existing e30 bolts holes - three on each side. It's pretty solid.

          1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
          Instagram:
          https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
          LS Build Thread:
          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

          Comment


            #6
            Small Update...

            The exhaust is finished and oxygen sensor is installed. The skid plate is also reinstalled and has plenty of room under the car.

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            The hood vents are installed. I need to see how the hood will clear the front throttle body to see if more openings are required.

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            This is how the car currently sits (on a trailer)...

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            Getting close! The To-Do List...
            -Install Dipstick Plug (Hopefully fixes my leak *fingers crossed*)
            -Calibrate Fuel Gauge
            -Full Alignment
            -Tune
            -ABS Delete/Rebleed
            -Volvo Power Steering Pump Install/Speed Controller
            -Accusump Install with New Lines

            -Plan is to mount the power steering pump and Accusump in the rear of the car to offset the front weight.

            Then we are ripping this thing and shakedown time!


            1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
            Instagram:
            https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
            LS Build Thread:
            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

            Comment


              #7
              Well the ICT Billet dipstick plug worked! No more leak! Had to use a new ground for the electric fan but it also works now as well. Idled for about 10 minutes and got up to operating temp.

              1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
              Instagram:
              https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
              LS Build Thread:
              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

              Comment


                #8
                Woah! Sick looking build. Following. As one who still enjoys the boost of the s/m5x world, I have said if she ever totally kicks the bucket, I'll venture to the LS arena.
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  E30 is aligned and street tuned! And it’s fast! The fuel pressure was around 80psi which is definitely high. I need to look to see if I accidentally swapped the vent and return fuel lines.

                  Have a few more items to tackle before a run up to the mountains. Also, still need to hook up the Accusump and Volvo power steering setup but it’s close!

                  1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
                  Instagram:
                  https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
                  LS Build Thread:
                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well the vent and return fuel lines were 100% connected to the wrong hard lines which explains the high pressure. Had to pull out the fluid reservoirs, the master cylinders, and the top strut bar to be able to reach the lines. Finished late Sunday so wasn't able to start the car to 100% confirm, but primed the fuel pump and pressure was lower which is a good start. Looking from the top of the engine bay, the top line is return, the middle is supply, and the bottom line which is also the smallest is vent to the tank.

                    I was able to make some relief cuts in the hood this weekend as well to fit the intake piping and the brake reservoirs. Honestly, the hood fit and looked better than I expected. I thought I would need to cut holes through the entire hood which thankfully didn't need to happen.

                    Here's the current state of the e30...

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                    1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
                    Instagram:
                    https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
                    LS Build Thread:
                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by greyis89 View Post
                      Woah! Sick looking build. Following. As one who still enjoys the boost of the s/m5x world, I have said if she ever totally kicks the bucket, I'll venture to the LS arena.
                      Thank you! I was pretty far down the same route with a turbo m/s5x build...then decided I wanted to switch to N/A. Honestly can't go wrong with either setup. Both very capable.

                      1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
                      Instagram:
                      https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
                      LS Build Thread:
                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

                      Comment


                        #12
                        In the middle of my E30/LS1 build now as well … this is beyond motivating!! Thanks for sharing your experience and the parts used. I’m almost 100% Sikky kitted but didn’t pull the trigger yet on the Condor steering shaft since my oem bits broke during disassembly and also wasn’t sure on power steering setup (looking at Chase Bays).

                        Did you mean to be concerned about oil (vice fuel) pressure with the Accusump kit in the trunk? Also which clutch /flywheel combo are you running?

                        All the best,

                        Travis

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by steel330i View Post
                          In the middle of my E30/LS1 build now as well … this is beyond motivating!! Thanks for sharing your experience and the parts used. I’m almost 100% Sikky kitted but didn’t pull the trigger yet on the Condor steering shaft since my oem bits broke during disassembly and also wasn’t sure on power steering setup (looking at Chase Bays).

                          Did you mean to be concerned about oil (vice fuel) pressure with the Accusump kit in the trunk? Also which clutch /flywheel combo are you running?

                          All the best,

                          Travis
                          Awesome! Stoked that it's motivating to others and happy to share/answer questions. Sikky definitely has a well put together kit and options, but were just a little expensive in my opinion. I had to scrap a few of their parts due to fitting and custom length issues.

                          You will definitely need a solid steering shaft. Mine barely clears the headers and required some slight machining/header modification.

                          Power steering I ended up installing a Volvo power steering pump (PN 36050678) in the trunk and wiring this past weekend. I purchased a Brewington Wiring Systems (BWS) speed controller setup with speed, power, and ground wires. I wired a 12V source to a switch on the dash blank panel as a signal wire then to the pump. The pump power was wired to the battery/ground with 6AWG wires and an 80 amp fuse (probably overkill). The lines are custom -6AN lines (high pressure/return) that will be routed through the bottom of the trunk, over the rear subframe, down the driver's side frame rail, and past the heaters with heat shielding. The fitting adapter from the pump high pressure to -6AN line is Fragola PN 491963 and the -6AN banjo adapters at the rack are high pressure side Fragola M14x1.5 (PN 980659) and return side Fragola M16x1.5 (PN 980664). Hoping to finish the routing this week/weekend.

                          Also, you are correct about fuel vs. oil (typo on my end and fixed). The Accusump will be tackled after some driving during the next oil change. I need to figure out how to install the T-fitting and Improved Racing -10AN check valve with very limited space in the front of the car. I'll be routing a -10AN line from the rear of the car to the front.

                          Clutch and flywheel were an LS7 stock setup from Tick Performance (https://www.tickperformance.com/gm-l...-applications/)

                          1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
                          Instagram:
                          https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
                          LS Build Thread:
                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Whens the first shakedown track day?
                            Simon
                            Current Cars:
                            -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

                            Make R3V Great Again -2020

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
                              Whens the first shakedown track day?
                              Hoping by the end of this year! I need to get out asap.

                              1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
                              Instagram:
                              https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
                              LS Build Thread:
                              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

                              Comment

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