Planning S52/OBD2.... why's it $7k???

[Kevinl]

I almost bought a complete m50 engine out of a e34 for $210

cant you use the obd 1 fuel rail or I know a M52 in a 5 series still has the regulator on the rail

[GunMetalGrey]

There is plenty of stuff in there that you may not need or could source for yourself a lot cheaper. Few things being the 255 dollar mishimoto rad, 500 dollar luk flywheel, 120 for an engine stand and hoist? 450 for the m50 manifold swap (source your own parts)and the prebuilt engine harness adapter(DIY). So right there you can cut off about a 1500, and obviously price will vary with what you pay for certain things and what you already have.

[328ijunkie]

I could modify that heavily. We charge 5k+ (depending on what where doing) for an S52 swap all said and done.

[adonwilson]

I could modify that heavily. We charge 5k+ (depending on what where doing) for an S52 swap all said and done.

That's reasonable to have a swap done at a shop.

I found that a lot of costs were from while-you're-in-there type repairs. Definitely don't cheap out. You can also reduce a lot of costs by waiting around for good deals

[She loved E]

There is plenty of stuff in there that you may not need or could source for yourself a lot cheaper. Few things being the 255 dollar mishimoto rad, 500 dollar luk flywheel, 120 for an engine stand and hoist? 450 for the m50 manifold swap (source your own parts)and the prebuilt engine harness adapter(DIY). So right there you can cut off about a 1500, and obviously price will vary with what you pay for certain things and what you already have.

Prebuilt harness was already zeroed out so that's a non-issue. Good points on the rest, I have been able to find those cheaper online. But it ain't $1,500 in savings... maybe $300, $400 tops. I am getting closer to my original arbitrary magical $6k tho

I could modify that heavily. We charge 5k+ (depending on what where doing) for an S52 swap all said and done.

Labor only or including parts? :grin:

[Mistawall]

sounds about right im upto at least 6K and i already had my car. still havent gotten the engine in

[wilholl]

^^^This!!!^^^

[Poeman446]

Your excel spreadsheet is about right, but if you buy all that, you're going to do some intermediate "while you're in there" stuff that will cost another $750 or so. I would definitely get the vanos rebuilt, but I could save you $1000 by teaching you how to reflash your OBDII ECU and rewiring the harness yourself. Its really not very hard. My brother wrecked his M3 so I got my S52, ZF320, Driveshaft, Fuel pressure regulator, steering rack, and exhaust from him for $2000. I have a great bro, and I helped him part the car so that's why he let me buy it for so cheap. If you have that kind of money and want to spend it on the car, then by all means do it. I don't really see all the appeal to going with the M50 manifold other than looks. I haven't seen any dyno sheets proving that the M50 manifold is considerably better. Then again, I haven't really looked. The short shift kit is also expensive, but some people insist that they have it. I've driven cars with SSK's installed and never really considered it worth the money, but that's just my opinion. One thing is for sure... if you build this car like the excel spreadsheet suggests, it'll be a badass car.

[Liquidity]

For starters - why are you buying an OEM flywheel and then paying twice as much as a chromoly one? And you don't need to buy someone elses "manifold conversion kit" either and surely not for $450.

Overpaying ≠ "Doing it right"

But the best part has to be "buying used engine from junkyard" and seeing no problem in throwing that right in your car, however it's "wrong" to put any other used stuff on your car.

[nando]

for $2500 I'd be looking for a deal on an S54

also pelican has a nice website but they are usually on the high side of pricing. ECS is average. I'd be talking to uncle steve, aka Blunt.

I remain unconvinced that a $255 radiator that was made in china is necessary over the $100 stock one.

you could save some money on the flywheel/clutch too by going aftermarket as was already stated.

[She loved E]

For starters - why are you buying an OEM flywheel and then paying twice as much as a chromoly one? And you don't need to buy someone elses "manifold conversion kit" either and surely not for $450.

Overpaying ≠ "Doing it right"

But the best part has to be "buying used engine from junkyard" and seeing no problem in throwing that right in your car, however it's "wrong" to put any other used stuff on your car.

Hahah angry bird is angry.

Show me a decent clutch/flywheel kit for less than the stock Sachs/LUK combo. BTW I found it a bit cheaper @ $637 all-in (clutch kit + LUK DMF). Happy hunting.

Also please show me a DIY m50 that isn't hack. Not saying it doesn't exist, but I have yet to find it.

Any other used parts you'd recommend swapping in? Don't find me a used clutch/FW now. :giggle:

for $2500 I'd be looking for a deal on an S54

also pelican has a nice website but they are usually on the high side of pricing. ECS is average. I'd be talking to uncle steve, aka Blunt.

I remain unconvinced that a $255 radiator that was made in china is necessary over the $100 stock one.

you could save some money on the flywheel/clutch too by going aftermarket as was already stated.

Not a bad idea on the stock rad, I actually prefer that over aftermarket but for everyone that says to do that there's an "oh helllllll no! plastic endtanks!" post from someone. I'll look into it some more....

If I decide to pull the trigger I might give Blunt a shout. The prices on his site are avg to high... is he cheaper via r3v?

Rev 2 of my list. Green = needs attention. got my overall cost way down since the last one but I'm not sure about some stuff I left out (mainly Vanos rebuild & HG)... guess that depends on the engine I end up with.

[sweet3]

I was lucky enough to find an already swapped OBD1 s52 for 1800 with an ecu missing its chip lol. But anyways, my build ended up costing right around 3500. I have a simple excel spreadsheet with parts and the cost beside the parts if you are interested in seeing it (PM me).

Your list is great if you want a "Brand new" swap. But if you are just wanting a fun reliable daily driver, I would make some adjustments.

- Prefer the stock m20 radiator (more clearance for a puller fan). Still not a lot of space though.
- No need for a NEW oem flywheel or clutch kit. (Measure the clutch inner and outer widths, if they are close to stock, leave it alone)
- No need for NEW bellhousing bolts or pressure plate bolts (unless they are stripped of course)
- Motor mounts are only $34 each (Unless you want poly)

I'm not going to name everything, but those are some of the big numbers. Not everything has to be replaced, such as a clutch slave. I'm sure it still works (Unless you know for sure it doesn't)

Anyways, Goodluck! :D

[agent]

Show me a decent clutch/flywheel kit for less than the stock Sachs/LUK combo. BTW I found it a bit cheaper @ $637 all-in (clutch kit + LUK DMF).

This is what I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161265676312

The pressure plate I received is actually a Sachs. The flywheel has a little chatter when the clutch isn't engaged, but other than that (known) difference in the stock setup, I've been very happy with it.

[SmokeE30]

the stock LUK clutch kit is quite a bit cheaper when you dont buy it through BMW but then again so is almost everything, searching around and acquiring parts over time can save you a ton.

[stijmunkey]

So I have recently decided to restore my E30, not that I will be able to afford it anytime soon but I've been reading up on the engine swap for days, mostly scouring this forum reading everything hahaha anyways to the point, is there somewhere I can grab that spreadsheet? Looks incredibly useful and as I am just starting (and at the moment poor) I can definitely go for the whole waiting to find a deal part. . . And down the road I have access to a shop :)