clutch pedal disengages close to floor - g260 JBR fly e36 s50 clutch/press plate

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Finally bled the clutch last night and have some weird clutch pedal behavior. Basically when pressing the clutch pedal, its like "easy" to press the pedal the first inch or so and then becomes "harder" at a certain point and feels like normal clutch pedal operation.

Almost as if for the first inch it is not applying pressure to the pressure plate in order to release the clutch. But after an inch of travel, it becomes "taught" and operates as normal.

Or am I just describing symptoms of needing to bleed the clutch further?

Original setup: m20b25 g260 with stock clutch/flywheel

New setup: s52 g260 with JBR 11lb flywheel and s50 clutch and pressure plate and IE stainless clutch line (using s50 clutch and pressure plate because the flywheel was originally for s50)

I can measure the total height of the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate from the m20 to compare to the total height of the new setup... however the new stuff is already installed.....


Any ideas?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Got some feedback from bimmerforums e36 m3 section, mostly stuff I already know

The flywheels are the same basic dimensions and interchangeable (I'm using an S52 dual mass flywheel paired with S50 clutch on my car). Throwout bearings are the same, clutch discs are the same, master & slave cylinders are the same. However the pressure plate and release forks are different between S50 and S52. They definitely have different part numbers. If I remember correctly the S50 pressure plate is thinner than the S52 pressure plate. Your issue may be an S52 release fork mismatched with an S50 PP.

I was hoping this was the cause, however, checking the realOEM part diagrams shows the e30 s50 uses the same clutch release fork as the e30 325i (21511204229). The e36 s52 m3 and 328 years > 1996 use a different fork (21511223302)

So basically, looks like that isn't the problem, though it may still be an issue that the s50 PP is thinner than an s52 PP which could still be throwing off the geometry.

I will try bleeding the clutch more to see if that helps, though it was bleeding clear clean fluid using the old pump the pedal method. If this doesn't work, I will pull the trans and install/make an adjustable pivot pin.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

RESOLVED - clutch slave needed to be bled more. I didn't realize the weird "process" for bleeding the bmw clutch slave. Unbolted it, tipped the bleeder valve up, compressed piston with hand, open bleed screw, let out air bubbles, good to go. Took 20 mins.