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URGENT: Please diagnose my clutch condition (pictures)

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    #1

    URGENT: Please diagnose my clutch condition (pictures)

    So, this clutch and flywheel was brand new as of ~6-7,000 miles ago (flywheel was resurfaced). They when in the e30 along with the s52. I noticed a light bit of oil drip under the bellhousing, but also had some small oil pan gasket leak. I assumed both were the same, so I didn't sweat it and eventually changed the oil pan gasket with the intention of "keeping an eye on it". The original g260 trans finally kicked the bucket this past week so today I was swapping to a zf320. When I pulled the g260, the inside of the bellhousing was SOAKING wet with ATF. After I pulled the PP and clutch to change the pilot bearing, I was greeted with this sight. Looks like ATF got into the mix. You can see that inside ring on the PP is black probably a mix of clutch and ATF.

    I am assuming the clutch disk is garbage at this point. Is it okay to just wipe/clean off the flywheel and the PP and stick a new disk in there? I'm in a time crunch. The car has to be back on the road end of day tomorrow. I can order what I need and have it same day, there's a local place I can get parts.

    Please let me know what the thoughts are here.

    Click image for larger version Name: uploadfromtaptalk1447045851042.jpg Views: 1 Size: 99.7 KB ID: 7245915

    Click image for larger version Name: uploadfromtaptalk1447045861011.jpg Views: 1 Size: 97.3 KB ID: 7245916

    Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
    '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
    Shadetree30

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    #2
    Not really related to your question, but did you have to do anything special to get to the upper transmission bolts? I figured its pretty tight up there and I was going to get some longer bolts for the subframe to let it droop a little bit, but any advice would help. I think I have a leaky rear main.

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by f4tj0n View Post
      Not really related to your question, but did you have to do anything special to get to the upper transmission bolts? I figured its pretty tight up there and I was going to get some longer bolts for the subframe to let it droop a little bit, but any advice would help. I think I have a leaky rear main.
      Nope, actually it was no big deal. The only "special" tool was a long 3/8" extension and 3/8" swivel on the end. Then, you remove the transmission mounts and let the motor/trans lean backwards until the intake manifolt hits the firewall (I have M50 IM, the obd2 IM might lean backwards more because I think it's a bit smaller) - you might want to loosen the engine mounts too. After the motor leans back a bit there was JUST BARELY enough space to get the extension in there, but it fit, so it was no biggie. Took me maybe 20 mins to get all the bolts off and the trans out (after I got everything else out of the way)

      Letting the subframe drop a bit would also probably get you the clearamce you need. I would've done that next if there still wasn't space.
      '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
      Shadetree30

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        #4
        Was the clutch slipping at all before you pulled it apart? The pressure plate looks a little heat affected, but not terribly so. If it wasn't slipping before, I'd just replace the disk, but if it was, I'd put in a new pressure plate as well. Flywheel looks ok.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
          Was the clutch slipping at all before you pulled it apart? The pressure plate looks a little heat affected, but not terribly so. If it wasn't slipping before, I'd just replace the disk, but if it was, I'd put in a new pressure plate as well. Flywheel looks ok.
          Nope, wasn't slipping. I think what you are seeing is mostly the oily smear on the PP. It looks basically brand new after I cleaned it off. I'll just replace the disk.
          '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
          Shadetree30

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
            Nope, actually it was no big deal. The only "special" tool was a long 3/8" extension and 3/8" swivel on the end. Then, you remove the transmission mounts and let the motor/trans lean backwards until the intake manifolt hits the firewall (I have M50 IM, the obd2 IM might lean backwards more because I think it's a bit smaller) - you might want to loosen the engine mounts too. After the motor leans back a bit there was JUST BARELY enough space to get the extension in there, but it fit, so it was no biggie. Took me maybe 20 mins to get all the bolts off and the trans out (after I got everything else out of the way)

            Letting the subframe drop a bit would also probably get you the clearamce you need. I would've done that next if there still wasn't space.
            Pretty much exactly the way I did mine
            1988 325 non-letter Seta "Bronzit"
            1991 325ic "Laguna Green" (Sold)
            1993 325i "Laguna Green/Silver" (Sold)
            1998 528i "Artic Silver" m-sport(totalled by drunk driver)
            2000 528i Titansilber/gray m-sport
            2000 528i Titansilber/black m-sport(sold)
            2001 525i Anthracite m-sport(sold)
            2013 750i Black/Black m-sport "Beast"

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              #7

              Esquire E30 Build (87 325i Vert)
              Ultimate Tanning Machine

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                #8
                Yeah, the clutch disk is trash. I would probably lightly sand the flywheel and pressure plate with some high (fine) grit paper to make sure they are clean and smooth.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by M3PO View Post
                  Yeah, the clutch disk is trash. I would probably lightly sand the flywheel and pressure plate with some high (fine) grit paper to make sure they are clean and smooth.
                  Fine grit paper as in how fine? I have basically every grit from 100 to 2000

                  Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
                  '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
                  Shadetree30

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
                    Fine grit paper as in how fine? I have basically every grit from 100 to 2000

                    Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
                    1200 or so. Just enough to make sure that it's clean so you don't end up transferring crap to the new disk.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I wouldnt bother cleaning either. Slap it back together and slip it a few times then go and do some 3500 rpm clutch dumps. Should be fine from every other bmw clutch ive ever seeen.

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                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by 328ijunkie View Post
                        I wouldnt bother cleaning either. Slap it back together and slip it a few times then go and do some 3500 rpm clutch dumps. Should be fine from every other bmw clutch ive ever seeen.
                        I took 5 mins to lightly sand both. Figured it couldn't hurt.

                        I'll be back to abusing it as soon as it's driving :D
                        '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
                        Shadetree30

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