Trying to solve a VSS issue

[f4tj0n]

About 100 miles after my swap started running, my CEL turned on and the stomp test revealed that it was code 1234.

I have cleared the code, and its fine around town until I hop on the freeway then the light comes on again.

My ABS light is on because it is not getting power, but from what I understand, the ABS is a completely separate circuit.

Today, I undid the boots on my C101 and noticed that on chassis side of the plug, the wire was blue/yellow. I also took out my cluster and only found one wire connected the green box which was also blue/yellow. On the engine side of the c101, the wire is black/grey.

I looked up the ETM and the blue/yellow wire coming off of the green box is for cruise control?

Am I missing something? Should there be two wires coming off of the green box?

Thank you for your help in advance.

[kronus]

green box?

what year and model is your body? engine? harness?

[f4tj0n]

green box?

what year and model is your body? engine? harness?

Oops, I guess some details would definitely help.

My car is a 1990 325iS with an OBD1 S52 using a E34 harness that I did not know the year that it came from.

The green box I am mentioning is the one located on the back of the cluster that is converting the speed signal from analog to digital (AFAIK).

What is also weird is after doing some more research, people are saying that only M3's came with the blue/yellow speed wire from cluster->C101. I'm thinking of just piggybacking a wire to see if it will make a difference.

[BlackSpeed66]

This is what mine looks like ('87 325is, with cruise control and working ABS). I believe the 3 'slots' where the 2 connectors are are all connected to one another, so you should be able to tap in there. I haven't had any VSS related codes show up on my swap yet (in the short time I've driven the car).

[f4tj0n]

This is what mine looks like ('87 325is, with cruise control and working ABS). I believe the 3 'slots' where the 2 connectors are are all connected to one another, so you should be able to tap in there. I haven't had any VSS related codes show up on my swap yet (in the short time I've driven the car).

Mine only ones on of those connectors.

Can anybody confirm that My late model should have two? It would make sense, one for cruise and one for the ECU.


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[f4tj0n]

This is what mine looks like ('87 325is, with cruise control and working ABS). I believe the 3 'slots' where the 2 connectors are are all connected to one another, so you should be able to tap in there. I haven't had any VSS related codes show up on my swap yet (in the short time I've driven the car).

Ah so I know one is for your cruise control, and from what I just found out the other is either because you have a vert, or because you have the premium stereo.

So.. I'm guessing that the wire goes from the back of the cluster, to the cruise control module, and then to the c101? Is that correct?

[nando]

On late models the signal to the dme goes directly from the cluster through the c101.

[f4tj0n]

On late models the signal to the dme goes directly from the cluster through the c101.

I tried to do a continuity check from the connector that goes to the cluster, to the ping on the C101, and its not registering anything. That has to mean theres a wire break somewhere right?

[f4tj0n]

So I piggybacked the wire and I am still getting a VSS code. It only happens when I'm on the freeway.

I'm thinking of contact Turner to see if they can help me out with a vss delete chip... it's really starting to get frustrating.


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[Sh3rpak!ng]

Just find the wire from the ECU connector that needs to see the VSS signal and wire it directly to the cluster. That's what I did after I completed my swap and realized I forgot to hook it up after scanning codes. It was easy to run a wire from the glovebox behind the dash to the cluster. I don't think you need to go such a drastic route to delete it.

[f4tj0n]

Just find the wire from the ECU connector that needs to see the VSS signal and wire it directly to the cluster. That's what I did after I completed my swap and realized I forgot to hook it up after scanning codes. It was easy to run a wire from the glovebox behind the dash to the cluster. I don't think you need to go such a drastic route to delete it.

I did run a direct wire and it was fine driving on the streets until I got on the freeway for about two miles and the code came back.

I got real frustrated so I contacted Turner and they told me about their chip trade up program so I sent it out as soon as I got home from work.

I found a thread from a while back about the same exact issue and somebody had mentioned that chip on the speedo had crapped out. And then I think Nando had mentioned that only one of the sockets on that green plug is for the the correct one. I kinda wish I didnt jump the gun and send it out right away, but it has been bugging the crap out of me.