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get a voltometer, get a wiring diagram. understand how the systems work before you start wiring. its not that tough. but i bet your looking for the cheap / easy way out......so.....i will make this as simple as possible.
the large red wire should have a "battery terminal" type end on it. it doesnt, so add it. (it is the main power to the starter and from the alternater.) you currently have it on the small power wire from the battery. if you run the starter too long, it will fry the small gauge wire. then put the large red wire (with new end) on the big round battery terminal at distribution block. starter / alternator now works.
take the (2) black wires off the isolation blocks. there is no power that comes from those screws. put the (2) power wires (from the fuse box) on the small power wire at the distribution block (where you currently have the starter wire. )
dont forget the power wire from the e36 harness onto the new battery terminal connector to the starter wire. dont forget to wire the main ground for the e36 harness, it goes on the strut tower.
that ones wrong too. there are (3) different c101 configurations. 85-87, 88-89, 90-91. get a voltometer, get the wiring diagrams and check everything. make your own chart. then maybe you will understand how the car works and wont have to post every time you have a problem.
there is a black /green wire that goes to the starter. it is for the k5/k7 unloader relays. did you forget this wire?
that ones wrong too. there are (3) different c101 configurations. 85-87, 88-89, 90-91. get a voltometer, get the wiring diagrams and check everything. make your own chart. then maybe you will understand how the car works and wont have to post every time you have a problem.
there is a black /green wire that goes to the starter. it is for the k5/k7 unloader relays. did you forget this wire?
cheers, jason
ok.. im sorry I havent figured out what is wrong yet and have to post on a forum that is for asking questions, but I have figured out more than you think on my own. I appreciate the fact that you say the above c101 diagram is incorrect. Perhaps I will need to double check a few things. The car cranks fine, the fuel injectors are firing, the coils have power, the ecu has power, but it is not starting yet. There are hints of spark because there is poping from the exhaust but I am unable to determine if it is simply a compression fire or intermitten spark. Since the ecu grounds the coils I would suspect a bad ecu, however since the injectors fire fuel and they are also on a ground switch by the ecu it leads me to believe the ecu is okay.
I also added an additional ground strap from the coils to a chassis ground. I am going to search before the next thread I post.
Perhaps I will need to double check a few things. The car cranks fine, the fuel injectors are firing, the coils have power, the ecu has power, but it is not starting yet. There are hints of spark because there is poping from the exhaust but I am unable to determine if it is simply a compression fire or intermitten spark. Since the ecu grounds the coils I would suspect a bad ecu, however since the injectors fire fuel and they are also on a ground switch by the ecu it leads me to believe the ecu is okay.
I also added an additional ground strap from the coils to a chassis ground. I am going to search before the next thread I post.
first, what year is the car, what harness, what ecu, what chip?
are you sure the injectors are firing? did you put a diode on the connector?
if you believe the coils are bad, run resistance on them to check. intermittent sparks are highly uncommon with the m50's. all the ignition coils do ground through the ecu AND past a 240ohm resistor to g119. i think you need to do a little more research before you deem the ecu bad. pull the ecu connector off and check all ground pins are correctly grounded......see p130-32 of the bentley for a cheat sheet. cross reference with page ele-77 of the bentley. this is a very EASY way to check systems if systems are hooked up correctly. cheers, jason
88 e30 'engine' side c101 is being connected to the 89 e30 c101 'car' side. I know the pin chart I have for the e30 is correct and it does match the one on addissimo's chart. (This is the same pin chart I used for my own motronic 1.3 swap in my eta where I used an 89 harness).
The motor is from a 94-95? I dont know since I didnt buy it, and have to say the same about the harness, he should know. Stock chip (325) in a red label 413 I believe. Car is 89.
I cannot confirm the m50's x20 (aka c101) connector pin chart though. I have not found any more other than the one listed above (are there differences in m50 connectors?). I however believe that the connector is wired correctly. Everything functions correctly, unloader relay is wired, gauge operation is normal, windows work.
I have already checked for power at battery in on the ECU plug and checked it to ALL the listed grounds and they all have 12 volts through them. I have checked switched batter voltage to the grounds and there is 12 volts at switched power.
I pulled the number 1 plug and it was wet with gas. My only next step is checking voltage at the ecu plug for the injectors and coils. There is definitely smoke coming out of the pipes when it cranks and pops. To me everything electrical is there and its a mechanical issue now, but I cant determine is the starter isnt spinning fast enough, or there is something missing from the air/fuel/spark/compression requirements.
However, I've never dealt with these coil packs, what is the best way to check the spark output (I dont have the benetly, only for e30). According to some here on r3v the fuel pump will not come on unless the coil packs work and there is spark, sooo, I have to assume I have spark because I know there is fuel.
Last idea I have to check for a bad crank position sensor. Lots of parts he got for this motor are probably of questionable condition. The only way to describe the motor's operation is its like a car with a distributor 180 degress out. Cranks and you've got everything you need, but just wont run.
However, I've never dealt with these coil packs, what is the best way to check the spark output (I dont have the benetly, only for e30). According to some here on r3v the fuel pump will not come on unless the coil packs work and there is spark, sooo, I have to assume I have spark because I know there is fuel.
Last idea I have to check for a bad crank position sensor. .
now thats the stuff i like to hear.
bad crank position sensor will not allow injectors or coils to fire.
fuel pump relay should kick on before you start cranking....unless you followed an on-line wiring diagram. i would also check the fuel pressure on the supply line (radiator side of fuel line.) coils firing have nothing to do with fuel pressure.....except ews.
i do not have my notes on the different cars / c101 / x20 harnesses, but i can follow up tomorrow afternoon. from memory .... 95's had an additional green wire for the ews and green/white wire for ignition cut off / asc. car will not start if they are hooked up. also, check that the hfm is flowing in the right direction, arrow goes with air flow. cheers, jason
cool. I am unable to be working on the car this week. He will be at the beach and im back at school, but I'll be doing as much reading up as I can so when I get back next saturday I'll track this issue down.
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