Aftermarket MAF’s

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  • Rugbyfan
    Wrencher
    • Jun 2011
    • 286

    #1

    Aftermarket MAF’s

    I have a 3.5” maf (I know it doesn’t make more power but I purchased it 6 years ago). It was an original 800 Bosch maf that crapped the bed. I replaced it with a junkyard 740 maf to hold me over (random off brand). If I buy a new maf, should I go for any new maf or spring for the Bosch 800? What say you r3v? If Dave Markert could weigh in that’d be great. Dave, have you seen much difference in Bosch vs eBay/off brand (of any size)? Old vs new?
    "Broke into the wrong God damn rec room, didn't ya you bastard!"
  • TobyB
    R3V Elite
    • Oct 2011
    • 5169

    #2
    Aftermarket MAFs get a bad rap. I've had no luck with them in 2 different cars...

    anecdotally,
    t
    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

    Comment

    • Rugbyfan
      Wrencher
      • Jun 2011
      • 286

      #3
      That’s what I’m leaning towards. Rather than junkyard an 800 I’ll probably buy new. A lot of the wrx guys replace them proactively @ 100k, despite no code. Are MAF’s a wear item on obd-1 cars? I’ve never threw a code on any vehicles and just periodically cleaned with CRC. What’s optimal?
      "Broke into the wrong God damn rec room, didn't ya you bastard!"

      Comment

      • BlackSpeed66
        Mod Crazy
        • Apr 2008
        • 618

        #4
        From my personal experience, I'd go w/ a used OEM MAF over an new aftermarket one. I bought a $50 aftermarket MAF on eBay since I was trying to uncover some other fuel trim issues I was having after the swap. I guess i just had to learn on my own, but I spent several months chasing a CEL after addressing some initial issues and then a buddy said "what about the original MAF that came w/ the engine?"

        Derp.

        Popped the original one w/ 150k miles back in and haven't had a CEL since... :up:
        -Geno

        '87 325is (s52'd)
        '95 525iT
        '02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
        '98 Disco 1

        Comment

        • TobyB
          R3V Elite
          • Oct 2011
          • 5169

          #5
          I haven't heard of changing them unless you're chasing something.
          On OBD2, it's easy to check fuel trims, and if they're in the window, the MAF's
          considered good.
          OBD1's not so easy, tho...

          t
          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

          Comment

          • AndrewBird
            The Mad Scientist
            • Oct 2003
            • 11892

            #6
            I bought a Bosch one from Autohaus a few months ago and haven't looked back. Was the cheapest I could find. Paid $186. Well worth it to me.

            Comment

            • Rugbyfan
              Wrencher
              • Jun 2011
              • 286

              #7
              I bought a new Bosch 800 on Amazon. $140 shipped. I also grabbed the air box Venturi from a 740. Now my intake goes from just behind the headlight (4”) to kamotors shielded filter to 3.5” Venturi to 3.5”Maf to stock tb. May not make more power but I now know that I will have a good Maf reading and it sounds great!
              "Broke into the wrong God damn rec room, didn't ya you bastard!"

              Comment

              • ba114
                Grease Monkey
                • Sep 2015
                • 364

                #8
                If OBD2, buy a $15 slot MAF and adjust the MAF scalar to accommodate it. Works great
                RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

                Comment

                • Rugbyfan
                  Wrencher
                  • Jun 2011
                  • 286

                  #9
                  Obd-1 unfortunately. I threw the new maf on and the car runs great but I had the Maf code 29 flash near redline (trm). They suggested trying different clocking positions. My car seems very sensitive to clocking. 9 o clock and 12 o clock won’t allow the car to rev over 5k rpm. No codes though so I’m stumped. I didn’t realize clocking had such an effect. My intake has no bends before or after the maf
                  Last edited by Rugbyfan; 12-22-2017, 09:03 AM.
                  "Broke into the wrong God damn rec room, didn't ya you bastard!"

                  Comment

                  • Rugbyfan
                    Wrencher
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 286

                    #10
                    This is crazy, I’m out testing it right now and by adjusting clocking 1” clockwise or ccw I am bracketing it back to the sweet spot. I’m back to full 7krpm limit, but with Maf code 29 at redline
                    "Broke into the wrong God damn rec room, didn't ya you bastard!"

                    Comment

                    • jjc034
                      Advanced Member
                      • May 2018
                      • 107

                      #11
                      I'm running a VMP5000 MAF and simply cut the E36 MAF wiring and spliced in the VMP adapter.

                      Comment

                      • TeXJ
                        E30 Mastermind
                        • Apr 2010
                        • 1914

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Rugbyfan
                        Obd-1 unfortunately. I threw the new maf on and the car runs great but I had the Maf code 29 flash near redline (trm). They suggested trying different clocking positions. My car seems very sensitive to clocking. 9 o clock and 12 o clock won’t allow the car to rev over 5k rpm. No codes though so I’m stumped. I didn’t realize clocking had such an effect. My intake has no bends before or after the maf
                        Clocking of what?
                        1990 325is
                        m52b28
                        3.73lsd
                        g260 (1987 325is 5spd tranny)

                        Comment

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