M50 Swap Brake Booster

[OldE30`]

I've tried searching and can't seem to find anything so here goes.

There's heaps of different boosters you can use apparently but i want to know what's the easiest to use with an m50 swap. A Porsche 944 one is said to be easy with everything bolting up, but i want to know the exact parts i'm going to need to make a setup work as i don't really know anything about brake boosters and it's my first time doing this swap.

Thanks Guys

[ForcedFirebird]

Here's a link

You can move your stock booster over by slotting the mount holes, and modify the brake pedal clevis by welding a tab on the side. Easiest back yard way.

The 944 booster bolts in, but you will have to add threads on the rod to adjust to the e30 chassis.

You are OZ, so it just depends what you have available to you, mate.

[Old E30]

Here's a link

You can move your stock booster over by slotting the mount holes, and modify the brake pedal clevis by welding a tab on the side. Easiest back yard way.

The 944 booster bolts in, but you will have to add threads on the rod to adjust to the e30 chassis.

You are OZ, so it just depends what you have available to you, mate.

Okay thanks mate.

The brakes at the moment are pretty squishy and i'm not sure what it is, i've replaced everything but the brake booster so im assuming it's that so i might get a new 944 one. Does anything else need to be done to the 944 one to make it fit? And what master can i use?
Thanks

[Codym42]

I used the 944 booster. It wasn't too bad. Just make sure you trim your firewall insulation and that the booster sits flush against the firewall. I didn't do this the first time around, which resulted in the brake lights staying on even though I made sure the rod was cut to the proper length.

I'm using the stock e30 master cylinder. Order a new o-ring and reservoir seals.


Check out this link:

https://www.rjnunnally.com/how-to-fit-a-porsche-944-brake-booster-to-an-e30/

[mitchlikesbikes]

I'm running a massivebrakes boosterless setup. Plenty of room for the intake manifold and whatever else. Definitely not for everyone but I like the setup overall. Cleans up the engine bay a lot too.

[Old E30]

I used the 944 booster. It wasn't too bad. Just make sure you trim your firewall insulation and that the booster sits flush against the firewall. I didn't do this the first time around, which resulted in the brake lights staying on even though I made sure the rod was cut to the proper length.

I'm using the stock e30 master cylinder. Order a new o-ring and reservoir seals.


Check out this link:
https://www.rjnunnally.com/how-to-fi...ter-to-an-e30/

http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/bmw-e30-twin-cam-modified-brake-booster-project-orca/

Saw this posted on another thread, is this a viable option or better off modifying another one?

[pazi88]

VW boosters work fine also. Proper ones can be found from golf mk I and II cars for example. The working part numbers are: xxx 612 105x So for example this one is fine:


The rod threads change from part number to part number. But all need modification. For example this:


Needs re-threading:


And to be shortened:


And the pin for brake master cylinder needs to be swapped to longer one:


Or use spacer:


So with little modification those work fine. Advantage being that those are numerous and can be get for almost free. I have just taken mine from scarp cars.

[wworm]

VW boosters work fine also. Proper ones can be found from golf mk I and II cars for example. The working part numbers are: xxx 612 105x

Glorious post in here. How does it feel compared to a stock e30/ix booster?

[pazi88]

Glorious post in here. How does it feel compared to a stock e30/ix booster?

It's so long time that I have driven e30 with stock booster, that I don't remember :D Pedal feel is fine for me and I'm quite nitpicky on these kind of things.

[Mushroom Stew]

I'm running the 944 (ATE) Booster. works great. I can barely notice a difference from the stock booster. I think SS braided lines would help make it even better, but not needed.

Codym42 provides the link youll need to modify either the Girling or ATE booster- pretty straightforward job.

In hindsight I think I made the right choice. Was thinking of moving the booster over/making a clevis to save on $$$ but I feel my set up is reliable, brakes well and I didn't have to hack up the firewall.

[Curt Hayes]

I started with the Zionsville e21 booster, but it got old and weird, so I bought a 944 booster to swap it with. Install was fine. A $15 tap and die set from Harbor Freight gave me the right die to run the threads down on the shaft. Be careful to not let the input spin or get torqued around too much. Don't want to damage anything inside. As Codym42 mentioned, make sure to trim that firewall insulation. Better yet, fab up a 8mm(5/16") spacer to space the booster out from the firewall, and avoid trimming entirely. I didn't notice that either needed to be done until I'd already cut the input shaft off. Had to trim way more insulation than I thought. Even a little spacer would've made a big difference.