Best way to bleed coolant system without a bleeder valve?

[Dgerry]

Hello,

Here is what you need:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...l/003466sch01/

These work great.

[haaken675]

Hello,

Here is what you need:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...l/003466sch01/

These work great.

I ordered a different brand this morning. I hadn't realized these things existed. I have had so many of these cars that took forever to bleed, and if I had known it could be so simple with a vacuum bleeder I would have bought one years ago.

[AndrewBird]

I don't understand how so many people can have issues bleeding their cooling system. All I've ever done on every car is raise the corner of the car that has the expansion tank, fill as much as possible, and run the car with the cap off until warm, topping up when needed. Never had any problems. No bleeder screws, no vacuum bleeding.

[Northern]

Undo the upper rad hose at the radiator and fill the coolant system from there. Reconnect the hose and start the car. Add coolant to the expansion tank and leave it open. Run the car with the heater on full blast. Squeeze the upper rad hose and you’ll see bubbles come out of the expansion tank. It’ll take a bit but you’ll get it bled. If you still have issues remove the thermostat and drill a small hole at the 12 o’clock position to aid with air passage.

Do this + get the nose of the car up in the air. Park on a steep hill or jack it up as high as you feel comfortable.
You want the expansion tank to be the highest point, and the radiator to expansion tank nipple should be the second highest point.

The upper hose might still be slightly higher than the rad, so do as Danny says and squeeze the upper rad hose to push the bubbles out into the rad where they can flow out to the expansion tank.

[haaken675]

I don't understand how so many people can have issues bleeding their cooling system. All I've ever done on every car is raise the corner of the car that has the expansion tank, fill as much as possible, and run the car with the cap off until warm, topping up when needed. Never had any problems. No bleeder screws, no vacuum bleeding.

Perhaps if I had a completely stock car, or one that was already sorted it wouldn't be an issue as I wouldn't mind just idling it and pushing the air out slowly...That isn't the case for me, I am tuning megasquirt from scratch on a swapped turbo build...There are a lot more variables and a lot more back and forth checking every gauge and system.

That being said, the vacuum refill system I got works amazingly. It was infinitely quicker then I expected. The car still seems to run a little on the hotter side despite having the massive radiator. It seems like my idle temps are consistently around the 200 mark or over.

[grizstiles]

I also have had problems bleeding my coolant system. I've bleed plenty of radiators but the s52 has been running hot. Using the obd2 bluedriver, I got the car to run consistently at 196 (should be 192) couldn't get any more bubbles and then once I put the radiator cap back on its starts to run at 203 degrees. I've emptied and filled the system 8+ times and still runs hot.

[haaken675]

I also have had problems bleeding my coolant system. I've bleed plenty of radiators but the s52 has been running hot. Using the obd2 bluedriver, I got the car to run consistently at 196 (should be 192) couldn't get any more bubbles and then once I put the radiator cap back on its starts to run at 203 degrees. I've emptied and filled the system 8+ times and still runs hot.

I'm in the same boat as you. I have the system properly bled now (Probably better then I ever have before) and it still wants to run hotter then I would think is normal, especially when I am running a 19 row setreb oil cooler and a 3" triple pass radiator.