what could have caused this

[Rev Engineer]

Thanks for all of the ideas!

I had the flywheel shaved. I recall there being some clearance between it and the oil pan bolts. I did use locktite on the pressure plate bolts.

I think the comment about a pressure plate band breaking might be the most plausible. I could see how one of these could swing outwards which could create the hacksaw like slot. I haven't tried looking at it with the motor running. I'd like to know if this slot is getting large while I run the motor, or if its done getting larger. Either way, it doesn't matter much since I'll be pulling the transmission. We should find out soon what caused this!

I think I'll go ahead and remove the headers as I need to fix an exhaust leak. I welded up the hole in the s50 headers, but neglected to account for the slot... This might be a good time to fix that. I have the wobble-torx socket so I should have some luck at getting at those top bolts. So, hopefully the trans will come out without too much of a fight.

I've never messed with lowering the subframe. Is it almost as easy as supporting it with a jack or two and then removing the 4 large bolts which hold it to the subframe? Would another idea be to remove the motor mounts and slightly lower the motor? Maybe that doesn't work cause the oilpan will then rest on the subframe..

[btec116]

Ive seen the spring fingers snap on the pressure plate in other clutches before, seems plausible with the damage. Although dont know how it could get spun around like that. Post some pics when you pull the gearbox, I think we'd all love to see it from the other side! :shock:

[DaN]

My guess is one of the clutch dowel pins came off.

I just had my ZF trans out of my s50 e30 to install a 16lb non-dual mass flywheel. It doesn't come out easily because the motor can't tilt back, it hits the firewall. The top bolts can't be accessed.
I had to undo the lower motor mount bolts, and use a hydraulic rolling trans jack to lift the motor out of the mounts and slide it forward about 2 inches (removed fan first). Set the motor down on the subframe. This gives you the clearance to tilt the motor back, and its easy from there.
Here is a pic of the flywheel if anyone is interested. Its a Chromoly steel 1 piece 16lb middleweight flywheel which is used with the m3 clutch.

[aeryk7]

As far as replacing the transmission it is very possible and i did it three times now, i would recommend a lift , i just finished swappin my getrag250 out for a ZF

General Step-by-Step

To remove the transmission without removing the engine i got the car on the lift obviously .
- Remove your mid pipes from the exhaust manifold.
- Loosen the driveshaft from the guibo.
- Then unbolt the transmission mount this causes the engine to tilt backwards a little bit which allows the driveshaft to be easily removed from it.

- Drop the centerbearing and if its easier and faster just remove the front half of the driveshaft (otherwise obviously u gotta remove the whole D/S) and bolt the centerbearing back up finger tight. so its out of your way .

- At this point you still need more room to get to the bolts so you will need a transmission jack etc. or basically something to apply a little more pressure from the bottom front of the engine to make it lean back further.

I also recommend having the bottom of the car, when on the lift, to be at shoulder heighth so once under the car you can see every bolt on the transmission. ( Just watch your head and be very cautious, basically this allows you to put your head in the tunnel)

Also if you have them, swivel head torx sockets work amazingly faster than standard torx with a swivel conjuction.

[aeryk7]

That scrape looks interesting but i have a feeling it has nothing to do with with whats going on inside the bellhousing.

[Jason89i]

General Step-by-Step.......

good work. agree with the lower lift height. but i usually walk away with a few more lumps on my knoggin. also, dont forget that blasted 10mm bolt that holds on the splash shield. ive been stuck a few times holding a trans yelling for help.

My guess is one of the clutch dowel pins came off.

good point. the cheaper lightweight flywheels seem to have those pins fall out. but ive never really seen it with a stock flywheel.

cheers, jason

[325Projectz]

also, dont forget that blasted 10mm bolt that holds on the splash shield. ive been stuck a few times holding a trans yelling for help.

:rofl:

so true.

[aeryk7]

:rofl:

so true.

That little bastard got me before, im pretty sure i left it off this time. 8)

[techno550]

probably a strap on the pressure plate let go. they tend to brake from bad downshift technique. They are designed with load in the "engine power" direction in mind.

[So Live]

TAKE IT APART ALREADY!!!! im curious to see what i was.

[Rev Engineer]

I've made a little progress. The exhaust is out and driveshaft disconnected. It is going to be a major pain getting at those top trans bolts. I dunno about this.... I might get ahold of a engine lift and try taking the motor off the mounts. If all else fails, I'll take the motor out. Damn is it tight in there. I made an attempt at getting the top ones, but I can't get close to even seeing them.

I hope the failure isn't my fault. I had a few poor downshifts due to my brakes fading and missing the turn-in. Bigger brakes are definitely in order. In the end the failure occurred during an up-shift.

[Van Westervelt]

Ive had my 260 off a couple times with the motor in place. Just man up :)

[1990m3]

I had a few poor downshifts due to my brakes fading and missing the turn-in. Bigger brakes are definitely in order. In the end the failure occurred during an up-shift.

you had brake fade problems with the m3 brakes? Which pads were you running? Do you have ducts?

[Rev Engineer]

I did have major fade problems. I think I boiled the fluid at one point. The pedal dropped halfway down, but I still had pressure - maybe from the rear circuit? I do not have break ducts, but I've never had problems before. I'm attributing the problem to the fact that I'm going much faster than before. I used to be able to hammer on the breaks and catch other cars in the break zones. This last event I had to hold back in breaking to keep the pedal feel under control. I think I've got PF97 pads in there right now. The only other thought is that maybe I've had the front engine pan/ground-effect off during previous events. This thing really covers up the wheel well and can easily restrict cooling. Has anyone punched holes through this thing to help break cooling? I'd hate to do another event and still have break problems, so I'm seriously considering doing a e36 break conversion (any info on this?) or going with the Brembro big-break kit.

I'll try to man-up and get the tranny out this weekend. I've done several e30 clutches in the past, but this one might take the cake in terms on difficulty.
;)

[matt]

A) Get brake ducts. Don't waste your money on big brakes until you get ducts.

B) It's not that much harder with a twincam.