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    s52 E30 M3

    Hopefully on Friday I will be picking up an e30 m3, it has a brand new paintjob, but the motor was removed because they used it to put it in a 2002... I have in my possession a s52 motor + computer + wiring harness + all accessories.

    I have done lots of research, and this is what I have, and this is what my parts list should look like?

    route A:
    OBD 2 S52 (it has an m50 manifold on it)
    97 M3 ECU + Wiring harness
    97 M3 Tranny
    Tree house racing brake booster
    Tree house racing wiring adapter?
    e34 m50 oil pan

    Route B:
    convert to OBD 1?
    413 DME non silver label
    OBD 1 wiring harness
    97 m3 tranny
    Tree house racing brake booster
    Tree house racing wiring adapter?
    e34 m50 oil pan

    Any other major things i'm missing?

    What route would you guys go through?

    I am kind of leaning towards route A, just because it will be easier not to convert to OBD 1, i know if i send my computer to active autowerks they can re-tune my ecu and delete EWS, is that the only thing stopping me from using obd2?


    it's 4 am.. i have class at 7, super tired.... sorry if this post made no sense!

    night!

    s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

    #2
    OBD1 is such a standard that it's going to get you quick easy tech help here if you run into problems. Seems like OBD2 is catching on, but I couldn't name anyone here offhand running it. Anything you could have a problem with OBD1-wise has to already occured & been discussed into the ground.

    More power to ya if you can make OBD2 work. It would save the cost of all the OBD1 parts/time/effort/money.

    Do you have any experience welding? Or I guess the basic question is - do you know how easy it is to make your own booster?
    There's been a lot of interesting alternatives brought up in the last 8 months. I have a E21 booster for the moment, but I have a IX booster waiting for a MC. That's a better option that more than likely is less money. Poke around here a bit at least before you buy a E21 booster, lots of ways to go.

    It's not how you handle the good times, but the faith you keep in the bad that defines you.

    Comment


      #3
      Damn Loonibab you are on a roll recently. Good luck with the install :up:



      -> Afficionados join the M-technic I club

      Comment


        #4
        Meh .

        E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by LINUS View Post
          OBD1 is such a standard that it's going to get you quick easy tech help here if you run into problems. Seems like OBD2 is catching on, but I couldn't name anyone here offhand running it. Anything you could have a problem with OBD1-wise has to already occured & been discussed into the ground.

          More power to ya if you can make OBD2 work. It would save the cost of all the OBD1 parts/time/effort/money.

          Do you have any experience welding? Or I guess the basic question is - do you know how easy it is to make your own booster?
          There's been a lot of interesting alternatives brought up in the last 8 months. I have a E21 booster for the moment, but I have a IX booster waiting for a MC. That's a better option that more than likely is less money. Poke around here a bit at least before you buy a E21 booster, lots of ways to go.
          Porsche 924/944 booster is the way to go. You can use the E30 M/C and the thread pitch is the same as the BMW, so you can use the E30 clevis as well. The only thing you need to do is cut down the shaft to the proper length. One quick pass with a cut-off wheel and you done.

          Comment


            #6
            Wiring adapter takes 30min. to make yourself going a wiring diagram here- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...+wiring&page=3

            Buy the connectors and pins at the dealer and solder away.
            Last edited by mazur; 10-25-2007, 12:18 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mtechnik View Post
              Damn Loonibab you are on a roll recently. Good luck with the install :up:
              haha, thanks man... but ask me how I got my s52 :(

              wait. no need.. i'll tell you..

              back road, deer, avoided it, then plowed through 50 yards of trees.. pretty lucky to be alive though.. and i'm most likely getting an e30 m3 out of it.. so it's all good.

              Anyway... I have no experience welding.

              I want to really stay with OBD 2, i mean, I don't see why not besides the extra o2 sensors, and the EWS, but if i send my ECU to get upgraded, they can always remove the EWS deleted for me.

              This might sound stupid..

              but what exactly do i need for an obd1 swap?

              Basically the obd1 wiring harness? obd1 intake manifold, obd1 throttle body?

              What exact route would you guys go with if you were in my position? I know that sounds a bit blunt but whateve.

              Anyway, thanks for the comments.

              -Abe

              s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

              Comment


                #8
                OBD-I wiring harness, manifold, DME, crank position sensor, drill and tap head for second coolant temperature sensor, extension cable for Vanos solenoid

                Originally posted by whysimon
                WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                Comment


                  #9
                  i agree with mazur. build your own harness.

                  go with the P-car booster if you dont want to cut the e21 booster shaft to the right legnth and diameter and have to die it.

                  Im assuming your e36 had the 6 bolt diff input flange but if it has the 4 bolt one, you can use that too. (with a e30 CSB backwards)

                  Go buy THR cabs so you dont have to modify the s52 exhaust too much. Or get ebay headers, cut the mid section the right legnth and call it a day.

                  After that its just a matter of OBDI vs II, getting all the right mounts and bolting shit together.
                  -Chris

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Wait... You totaled your e36 M3 already? You've had it for like a month.
                    Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast

                    Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
                    https://mtechniqueabs.com/

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I think you're better off going with a lower-output engine if you're using an E30 platform. E30 M3 with S52 will be much more difficult to drive on the limit than an E36 M3--and will get crossed up in a heartbeat if you don't know what you're doing.

                      IMHO, stick with an E36 325 or 328.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by So Live View Post

                        Im assuming your e36 had the 6 bolt diff input flange but if it has the 4 bolt one, you can use that too. (with a e30 CSB backwards)
                        Why would he need to do that if the E30 M3 driveshaft will work?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Stu Mc View Post
                          I think you're better off going with a high-output engine if you're using an E30 platform.

                          IMHO, stick with an E36 325 or 328 and turbo it
                          Fixed ;)



                          The E30 in general is harder to drive than an E36 and I doubt having more power is going to make it harder to drive. Maybe harder to put the power down.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Jordan View Post
                            Wait... You totaled your e36 M3 already? You've had it for like a month.
                            yeap, 4 months..

                            Originally posted by Stu Mc View Post
                            I think you're better off going with a lower-output engine if you're using an E30 platform. E30 M3 with S52 will be much more difficult to drive on the limit than an E36 M3--and will get crossed up in a heartbeat if you don't know what you're doing.

                            IMHO, stick with an E36 325 or 328.
                            obviously, due to my accident you are telling me i am not a skilled enough driver to drive a e30 with a s52?

                            Well.. Shit happens.. Yes i was speeding when I got in an accident, but there was more shit to come into play.. you might be right... i could have been in the slowest e36 318 and still managed to cause the same amount of damage. It wasn't the car, it was the situation.

                            Anyway, thanks for all you who are actually giving advice and helping..

                            -Abe
                            Last edited by loonibab325i; 10-25-2007, 01:37 PM.

                            s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

                            Comment


                              #15
                              My swap I converted to OBDI, but I almost regret it.

                              OBDII makes diagnostics a ton easier, plus you can use a lot more fun toys to pull codes and check shit. Nothing fucking works with OBDI stuff. When I tear my engine down to rebuild next year I think I am going to go back to OBDII.

                              I would use the THR wiring adapter, I used it and it makes the swap a lot easier, one less thing to deal with. Plus jon helped me out with some wiring issues I had, so the support is good assuming you can get a hold of them.

                              As for the booster, I would recommend just getting an IX booster and e34 m5 MC. Its the setup I have, and it worked out good for me. Search car-part.com and you can get one way cheaper than forum rates.

                              On a side note, was the THR adapter always $400??? I swear I only paid $300 for it.
                              Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

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