Here's the link:
It's old but will basically tell the story.
Here's a picture of the brace installed in Pauls awesome autocross car.
ok...Ive learned ALOT..but who is using the 260?
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I really liked the stock s50 clutch/flywheel. Dont listen to the you cant run this clutch without this trans talk. I have installed an s52 clutch/flywheel in an m50 with g260, and an s50 clutch/flywheel in an m50 with g260, and lastly an m20 clutch and flywheel. You have to run the starter for the specific flywheel, but the trans doesnt matter.
The s50 clutch had a great feel and will hold a lot more than a modded m50 can put out. The m20 is really light and better suited for daily driving, but if you like a distinct feel run the s5x clutch.Leave a comment:
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I've put about 35k miles on my 260 in two different 24v swapped cars. Probably about 15 auto-x's, 3 track days, 6 trips down the 1/4 mile, and literally thousands of redline shifts. I drive the shit out of my cars. I think its pretty safe to say that this transmission holds up pretty well.
I should note that I'm using a SPEC stage 2 clutch kit in the S50 car, which holds the power great but can be a little noisy and the engagement point isn't as consistent as a stock clutch. It doesn't bother me, but someone looking for a more OEM quality clutch might look elsewhere.Leave a comment:
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I got one of the first brackets from Doug. It works great.
I'm also running the 4 main transmission bolts and the 2 starter bolts. No issues.Leave a comment:
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I've been running mine since Feb.2006 - autox and hard driving, not a single problem, and no worry of moneyshifting the e36 trany (did it in my e36 in 2000, not cool).
.02
Herbert
s52 obdI, 323i euro flywheel, e30 m3 clutch pack, 260g.Leave a comment:
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i drilled a hole in the bell housing to put a bolt in on the bottom for extra support. you wont have any problems, and buy Doug;s tranny mount.Leave a comment:
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as for those dowel pins, USE THEM. especially if you are using the plate that does in between the engine and trans (which is obviously highly recommended). if you do not use the dowel pins you could have problems with starter/flywheel mesh. Also, dont forget to use the correct pilot bearing for the trans you are using.Leave a comment:
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My s50/260 has been in use for over 2 years with a LOT of trips down the dragstrip. I haven't had a single problem with it.
It doesn't grind when downshifting or anything else abnormal but I haven't had it on a road course (convertible).
When the motor was first installed, the shifter being offset to the passenger side was annoying. But in truth, I quickly got used to it and drove it that way. Later, another e30 friend drove my car and commented about the shifter. Oh yeh, I was going to fix that.
So I did.
I sawed the shift rod in half and was working on a jig to position it with the rotation I thought it would need before I welded it solid.
At the last minute, I saw a bolt laying on the work bench and stuck it inside the hollow shift rod - for whatever reason I'm not sure.
Well, the bolt was such a perfect fit that I had to screw it into the rod! So I cut the bolt head off and threaded the other end into the other half of the shift rod.
I twisted the shift rod to what I measured to be 10 degrees and installed it on the car. WAY too much twist!
Took the rod out and made it a little straighter. STILL way too much twist!
It took three tries before I got the shift rod just right. If the rod sits on a bench, you can hardly see that the two ends aren't in a straight line anymore.
I welded it with the bolt still in there. The bolt was surely just a standard thread bolt but I didn't think to measure the thread pitch before welding it up. The fit was so good that I wouldn't hesitate to have used it without welding but since I had the welder fired up, and I enjoy welding . . . .
If it hadn't been for that bolt, I would have spent the day tacking the shift rod, installing it, cutting the welds, straightening the rod, tacking it again, installing it, cutting the welds, arrgh.
FWIW I still have the vibration damper on the stock 325i driveshaft and there is no interference with the shifter.Leave a comment:
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Put the tranny on the motor before dropping the motor in. I had to wait to put the tranny in and I am covered in grease and my back hurts.Leave a comment:
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..do you mean to correct the way the shifter is tilted toward pass. side in the cockpit?..or?Leave a comment:
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For mine it was kinda goofy i wasnt finding any pic on what to bend, where to bend it and how far.
So i just got on my back and looked at what needed to go where and how to do it. So i took the selector rod put it in my vice and heated it up with a propane torch till it was red hot took some chanel locks and bent it down wards.
Grabed the can of WD-40 that i saw sitting next to me and said hey this might work to cool it down, sprayed it on there, walked out the garage coughing worked but makes lots of smoke. But needless to say it wored fine brought it right back to where it should be and seems to shift fine. Cars not running yet but it will be soon
(I dont have a lift, im 19 and doing this all by my self)(Engine lit on fire) So im going th cheaper route. Here a pic.
B4

After

Now
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So the 260 obviously holds up well, even missing a bolt or three.
I think everyones experience shows that the tranny fluid pickup is OK, 10 degree tilt or not.
What I wanna see is a better solution for the shifter linkage.Leave a comment:
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Ok so this is what i have at least....
Red ones are the Two big ass bolts at the top, and the starter and the blue ones are the two torks heads bolts that are pretty good sized one that i mentioned.
This is all i have for now i plan on putting some more in later when i get back under neithe my car.
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+1 i thought hmm hes got nuts man... hahaha
But on the subject I would think 4 would be all right for DD running around town, but like I said to What HE said in the beging, that he plans on running a well maintaned (RELIABLE) track car i would have to say MORE bolts.Last edited by B3M2W5; 11-17-2007, 12:09 PM.Leave a comment:

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