M50 overheating & head cracking

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  • hoveringuy
    R3VLimited
    • Dec 2005
    • 2678

    #16
    There's another bar that goes over both of them and locks them together. They are extremely tight, the cams don't budge.

    I may get another 1/4 degree of accuracy with the correct tool, but this is close enough for me.

    I wish I had all of the BMW factory tools to do this but I don't. For something that I will most likely use once I just can't justify the outlay.
    Last edited by hoveringuy; 02-04-2008, 04:04 PM.

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    • matt
      No R3VLimiter
      • Oct 2003
      • 3731

      #17
      What if the last guy who put the motor together didn't time the cams right?

      Comment

      • hoveringuy
        R3VLimited
        • Dec 2005
        • 2678

        #18
        Originally posted by matt
        What if the last guy who put the motor together didn't time the cams right?
        Huh? I thought they were timed by placing the square ends 90 degrees to the plane of the head with the dots up on each cam. Does the factory cam timing tool hold the cams at an angle different than that?

        That is a detail that would be important for me to know!

        Comment

        • matt
          No R3VLimiter
          • Oct 2003
          • 3731

          #19
          A) I don't think the ends are actually square, I think they have a bit of a taper. B) I am not sure if they're straight up and down or not. My cam tools are at the shop and I won't be until maybe next week.

          Comment

          • hoveringuy
            R3VLimited
            • Dec 2005
            • 2678

            #20
            That would be a great data point... is the tool set to exactly 90?

            I plan on setting the timing and then double-checking for 90 degrees against the plane of head with the bolts tightened.

            Comment

            • PiercedE30
              R3V Elite
              • Apr 2005
              • 4220

              #21
              I've seen it timed wonderfully with just a flat edge on the top of the cam blocks.
              Oh, and when you get the head cleaned, put up some pictures of the combustion chamber. I'm curious about the lines that are going between the valves in the previous pictures.
              My 2.9L Build!

              Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
              There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

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              • hoveringuy
                R3VLimited
                • Dec 2005
                • 2678

                #22
                It's tougher to see when they're clean but there are lines running across each chamber. Part of the casting process, I guess.

                BTW, are these heads considered Hemi?
                Attached Files

                Comment

                • PiercedE30
                  R3V Elite
                  • Apr 2005
                  • 4220

                  #23
                  Cool, yea those are casting marks. The common failure point is cylinder #4 between an exhaust valve and a head bolt hole (typically) or between the valves.
                  My 2.9L Build!

                  Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                  There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

                  Comment

                  • matt
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 3731

                    #24
                    Originally posted by PiercedE30
                    I've seen it timed wonderfully with just a flat edge on the top of the cam blocks.
                    Oh, and when you get the head cleaned, put up some pictures of the combustion chamber. I'm curious about the lines that are going between the valves in the previous pictures.
                    Wonderfully? I call bullshit. There is ONE way to time the motor properly, and it takes about 5 inexpensive special tools.

                    Oh, and you need to send the head to a machine shop for testing.

                    Comment

                    • golde30
                      R3V OG
                      • Nov 2003
                      • 11464

                      #25
                      wow, that was one dirty motor when you opened it up. i personally would have just sent off the head to a machine shop to have it cleaned/pressure tested at least.
                      IG: @Baye30

                      FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

                      Comment

                      • hoveringuy
                        R3VLimited
                        • Dec 2005
                        • 2678

                        #26
                        Yes, I should have it pressure tested. Yes, I should use BMW authorized tools. However, I have a schedule, a budget and other factors to consider.

                        It will get a new headgasket and carbon cleanup out of the deal so I'm calling it good. I will have the peace of mind of knowing that's been done.

                        If this were an S motor and I would do it differently and budget more time and money. It's not.

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