Non-vanos "hot cam" setup

[So Live]

I searched here and on bimmerforums. i found a bunch of threads on the subject. Use this cam and this one and try here for a chip bla bla bla...

I want to know how exactly to set the exhaust side cam (was stock intake side) with relation to the head. I heard 45 degrees and a few other things. I know the lones should point like / \ basically but how do i know theyre correct and im not going to munch my valvetrain and pistons?

Thanks!

[Van Westervelt]

Do you not have the cam blocks?

[So Live]

If by the cam blocks you mean the tool, no. Ive installed the right (intake on intake and exhaust on exhaust) before with no problems. The non vanos cams are easy. Theyre both flat to the cylinder head (the squares at the back of the head)

Moving the intake cam to the exhaust side turns the cam. From what i hear it turns the cam flat (the square on the end) about 45 degrees.

Im just looking for someones whos done it before that has a degree measure from the flat of the head.

[PiercedE30]

Where'd you hear about my dual intake cam setup?

Haha. Yea, it gets kind of tricky when you throw an intake cam on the exhaust side. Just make sure you turn the motor over before starting it. When I did it, we pretty much tried to get the new exhaust cam to be positioned the same way that the original was.
It was roughly a 45 degree turn.

[PiercedE30]

Actually, I was thinking about going back to the stock exhaust cam and playing with the timing. I only say that because with the 240/240 setup and my static cr at 11.7, my dynamic cr is like 10.7. If I go back to the 228 exhaust cam, then I would be at 11.5 dynamic cr.

[So Live]

Peirced: stop posting your set up on bfc FI section :)

In you application, stock seems better for the dyn cr. For mine (turbo) wouldnt the lower dynamic cr be a better thing?

Sounds like what im going to do though, just set the lobes like they should be

[PiercedE30]

One thing you may want to do is get a magnetic dial indicator and measure the height of the stock lobe so that when you install the new cam you will have a good base point as to where it should go.

[So Live]

So from that post im assuming the lobes are the same legnth? Sorry if thats a newb reply.

I have a dial indicator i can use to do that type of thing. Thanks for the tip!

[PiercedE30]

Well, the intake cam has a little more lift, but it will help you get the cam set.

[So Live]

Thats what i was thinking. Its like what 1 or 1.5 mm? thats not much when its at a 45 i guess. Thanks for the tip dude! Mabey i can set the dial so its directly over the top most part of the lobe. Just measure for the highest point and see what happens.

[PiercedE30]

Yea, that would be the best way. Honestly, me and one of the mechanics at the shop I work at just eye balled it.

[So Live]

Haha right on. Thats what i like to hear!!!!

[static]

so live: why are you even bothering with hotter cams? with turbo, you want high lift and low duration. You'll just get reversion with hotter cam setup

pierced: 11.7cr sounds yummy. I read that with high CR you want hotter cam (i think it had to do with avoiding the peak dynamic CR at the peak torque point to avoid detonation), why do you want to go back to stockers?

[digger]

Actually, I was thinking about going back to the stock exhaust cam and playing with the timing. I only say that because with the 240/240 setup and my static cr at 11.7, my dynamic cr is like 10.7. If I go back to the 228 exhaust cam, then I would be at 11.5 dynamic cr.

how did you work out that the DCR was 11.5? It seems way too high to be possible with a 11.7 static CR

[PiercedE30]

I used Desktop Dyno to figure it out. It actually has a preset for BMW 6 cylinder motors. I just went in and put in the numbers for my motor (bore, stroke, deck height, combustion chamber cc's, etc) and then put in my cam numbers (240/240, lift, and lsa). Then changed my numbers to stock cams and it spit out the dynamic. I think it was closer to 11.4x:1 than 11.5:1.