Treehouse Racing Brake Booster

[E30Driv3R]

Anyone running one?

I am looking to get one, because i cant find any iX boosters for sale.

if you have one, or have an iX booster let me know.

[BigD]

You do realize that the iX booster is identical to the E32 735i and E34 M5 boosters right? Just go to your local scrap yard and pull one together with the 25mm MC (same MC on the 735 and M5) off a 735 for 60 bucks.

[Charlie]

Anyone running one?

I am looking to get one, because i cant find any iX boosters for sale.

if you have one, or have an iX booster let me know.

175 from treehouse, with all the mod work done and a warranty, you can keep your existing master cylinder and resevoir.

That's a no brainer.

-Charlie

[Dave]

Stop all that crazy talk, Chuck. If I can spend a full day going to the various pick-n-pulls in town in search of an unknown condition used one for $50 less, then by God, that is the right, . . . err, r3v way to do it!

[FredK]

yo Cgrizz, I went to a pick and pull and got a Porsche 944 booster with warranty for $25.

Quite frankly if I were to do another swap, I'd just get a reman 944 booster, cut the input rod down to around 4", and thread it another 1/2", and save $50.

[Teaguer]

yo Cgrizz, I went to a pick and pull and got a Porsche 944 booster with warranty for $25.

Quite frankly if I were to do another swap, I'd just get a reman 944 booster, cut the input rod down to around 4", and thread it another 1/2", and save $50.

x2 on both accounts .

[Charlie]

yo Cgrizz, I went to a pick and pull and got a Porsche 944 booster with warranty for $25.

Quite frankly if I were to do another swap, I'd just get a reman 944 booster, cut the input rod down to around 4", and thread it another 1/2", and save $50.

That's actually what I did, just with a new 320 booster from autozone. Frankly, the PITA of manually threading the shaft would be worth the 175 to have a new unit with a warranty.

-Charlie

[FredK]

Ah, but the 944 booster input rod is already 10mm and is ready to accept a 10mm die with zero grinding. This is a 10 minute operation. Grinding the 320i booster rod down IS a pain in the ass, and would take probably an hour of sweating and inhaling metal and abrasives dust from a die grinder. Well, that's what I did the first time, anyway.

[Charlie]

Ah, but the 944 booster input rod is already 10mm and is ready to accept a 10mm die with zero grinding. This is a 10 minute operation. Grinding the 320i booster rod down IS a pain in the ass, and would take probably an hour of sweating and inhaling metal and abrasives dust from a die grinder. Well, that's what I did the first time, anyway.

I used a 12mm, and then bored out the clevis. Screw convention.

-Charlie

[FredK]

u go gurl!




No but really, the thought of making a larger hole in the clevis crossed my mind, then I began to overanalyze the situation. I thought, hey, maybe the clevis was designed to provide sufficient safety margins of axial strength only with a 10 mm hole.

[Mr.SWISS]

I used a 12mm, and then bored out the clevis. Screw convention.

-Charlie

same here.

Reman Cardone booster from Tha Z0nE and drlled the clevis. I started to machine the rod and thought, WTF?!? this won't fit the lathe! Buddy mentioned spinning the rod with a drill while hitting it with the buffer. But I was paranoid about jacking up the diaphragm in the booster. If (when more like it) I do it again. I will get a THR booster and harness adapter. those guys will go out of their way to help you out on your swap and I will support them as much as I can.

*cough* phuck Zionsville *cough*

[FredK]

Get Into The Zone!TM

[Teaguer]

Get Into The Zone!TM

.....Vato Zone !!

[FredK]

¿que?

[Teaguer]

¿que?

I sí what you did there .