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    runs like poop

    Hello everyone!

    I just started driving my car to work yesterday and today. It seems very rough. It pulls hard but only after 3.5 RPM. From idle to 3.5 it doesn't pull like an S52 should.

    Another thing is at idle the revs go up and down by itself. It also happens when coming to a stop, hell the car shut off on me at a red light.

    Would a tuning chip eliminate these problems? If so, who makes a good chip for an S52 E30?

    My windows are acting wierd too!!! They are intermitant....Start the car, they go down. Drive for a while, and then they won't go up. I have to pull the car out and back in, then the windows will work again.

    Any sugestions to fix any of these problems? Sorry if my questions are dumb or have been asked before.

    Thanks r3v!!


    edit for my setup:

    1990 e30 cabrio
    1999 S52 M3 engine
    OBD I setup
    Red label 413
    ~Fernando


    #2
    crank position sensor. did you put a new one in when you did the swap?

    As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
    You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

    Comment


      #3
      I bought one used. Should I try a new one?
      ~Fernando

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by platanos View Post
        I bought one used. Should I try a new one?
        that and check the maf. also you windows are probably the result of bad switches
        looking for a e30m50 swap harness adapter pm me $150 shipped
        email nitroman12@gmail.com

        Comment


          #5
          I’m having similar issues.

          I’ve had my 90 325is/S52 swap on the road for the past week.

          My electrical gremlin:

          1.) Initially she started, but some of the interior accessories wouldn’t run when the engine was running, the lights would go on but at idle the rpm would drop. The blower fan or the lights wouldn’t work at all. With the engine off but the key in the run position all the interior accessories would work fine.


          2.) I realized that the negative battery cable wasn’t tight on the battery post. I tightened that down and that seemed to help the situation. I thought everything was OK. I was wrong, Still with the engine off and the key in the run position all the interior accessories worked. With the engine running the interior accessories worked for awhile, can operate the windows and blower (the head lights always worked, just would still bring down the RPM if it was just idling). At this point when I was driving even with just the headlights on after awhile when I come to the stop and idle the car the idle will start dropping and picking up. Turn off the lights (blower not working at this point) and the idle picks up and stabilizes.

          So I offer no help, I’m awesome.

          I’ll pass along anything I figure out this weekend.
          Last edited by JeffRR; 09-10-2008, 08:04 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            sounds like the k5/k7 unloader relays. might be getting back fed.

            for the later cars, theres a green/blk wire that comes off the starter (through the c101) and to the k7/k5 relays. that wire tells the relays to cut power to some accessories (like the blower and windows) when the car is in the "start" position. forget that wire, and no power to the windows / blower. who knows what type of gremlins will appear if that wire finds another home. i would recommend looking at an etm for your car and verifying its in the right place.

            on a side note..... i know some earlier cars do NOT have that wire (2 post starter vs. newer 3 post starter) and can really reak havoc on euro motors. cheers, jason

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by platanos View Post
              OBD I setup
              Red label 413
              Does this include a custom chip? I'm assuming no since you're asking if a tuner chip will help - which is what you need to make this work correctly. You're using a computer programmed to run a 2.5L engine with 17.5 lb/hr injectors, on a 3.2 with 21 lb/hr. If you don't have a custom chip then that's your problem. I'm using a Zionsville chip but I've heard a lot of great feedback on the chip from a guy on here, matt from The Racers Market (PM that nickname, you'll get a better price than online most likely).

              The revving up and down is probably just a stale ICV. Sometimes they clear themselves up, other times you need to clean or replace them.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by BigD View Post
                Does this include a custom chip? I'm assuming no since you're asking if a tuner chip will help - which is what you need to make this work correctly. You're using a computer programmed to run a 2.5L engine with 17.5 lb/hr injectors, on a 3.2 with 21 lb/hr. If you don't have a custom chip then that's your problem. I'm using a Zionsville chip but I've heard a lot of great feedback on the chip from a guy on here, matt from The Racers Market (PM that nickname, you'll get a better price than online most likely).

                The revving up and down is probably just a stale ICV. Sometimes they clear themselves up, other times you need to clean or replace them.
                Thanks D. :mrgreen: You're right, of course. You can't expect a chip for a car with the wrong displacement, the wrong cams, the wrong injectors etc to run your car well. Luckily, I can help.

                We do have a "September Software Sale" going on right now. Details are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=118478

                The OBDI S52 chips are listed here: http://www.racersmarket.net/catalog/...034d752174eb80

                Thanks,
                Matt

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by platanos View Post

                  My windows are acting wierd too!!! They are intermitant....Start the car, they go down. Drive for a while, and then they won't go up. I have to pull the car out and back in, then the windows will work again.

                  I checked the ETM, my pin-out and my car. Yep I missed pin 15 on my engine side harness, my M50 harness came out of a swapped 87 chassis which didn't use pin 15.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jason89i View Post
                    ......... later cars, theres a green/blk wire that comes off the starter (through the c101) and to the k7/k5 relays. that wire tells the relays to cut power to some accessories (like the blower and windows) when the car is in the "start" position. forget that wire, and no power to the windows / blower. ..........i know some earlier cars do NOT have that wire .
                    Originally posted by JeffRR View Post
                    I checked the ETM, my pin-out and my car. Yep I missed pin 15 on my engine side harness, my M50 harness came out of a swapped 87 chassis which didn't use pin 15.
                    just a heads up. there are A LOT of differences between the 87 and the 90. more than just pin15. (k5/7 unloader signal.) an x20 connector wired for an 87 is not a direct plug-n-play for a 90. might also be missing dme speed signal, abs power, tach, diagnostic connections, ect. i would double check all the diagrams for differences. cheers, jason

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yep, Jason pretty much covered it. The 87 C101 is quite a bit different. I took one out of an 87 325i and is a lot more spartan than later C101s.

                      Without DME speed signal, doesn't the DME operate in a limp-home mode?

                      Originally posted by whysimon
                      WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks for all the feedback guys! Lots of info that I'll use. Are there any other chips out there that I can compare? I will purchase a chip this weekend and go from there.

                        Another problem I'm having is the Engine oil light is lit on the check panel. My oil level is fine, but at times I think I smell what seems to be burning oil. Any suggestions?
                        ~Fernando

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