m50 in, driveshaft not straight

[Jean]

Hmmm... I'll see if I can confirm in another manual since you are saying Bentley is wrong...

Two TB flaps, sounds like you are you using an OBD2 tb?

[BenM]

Here is a question...

Why does my car have two throttle bodys? It's got the main one that I see all m50's have, then there is like a second throttle body housing in front of it, with another flap, actuated by another lever (I'm guessing cruise control)? The second one is always open, and when you pull the lever, it closes. There is a sensor on the top of that second one, a 3 pin sensor, looks like a TPS. There's no connector on my harness for it, so I assume it's cruise control. Could this be causing any issues?

From what you describe, I believe that is the ASC+T. Maybe someone can tell you for sure. I think it can be deleted easily.

I think I am going to rescind my thought of it being a bad CPS. If it wasn't operating properly, then you wouldn't be getting fuel. Make sure you check the cam sensor as well. Maybe a large vacuum leak?

[JGood]

Check the resistance on the Cam sensor as well, but it sounds like a bad Crank sensor. I forget if the cam is around 540ohms or 1280ohms.

Check for anything else that may be disconnected like the MAF, TPS, or Intake temp sensor.

Why does it sound like a bad crank sensor, if it tested out ok?

It's also weird a sensor would go bad in the short time it took to pull the motor from the e34 and put it in an e30. But, anything is possible...

[JGood]

Here is a question...

Why does my car have two throttle bodys? It's got the main one that I see all m50's have, then there is like a second throttle body housing in front of it, with another flap, actuated by another lever (I'm guessing cruise control)? The second one is always open, and when you pull the lever, it closes. There is a sensor on the top of that second one, a 3 pin sensor, looks like a TPS. There's no connector on my harness for it, so I assume it's cruise control. Could this be causing any issues?

[BenM]

Check the resistance on the Cam sensor as well, but it sounds like a bad Crank sensor. I forget if the cam is around 540ohms or 1280ohms.

Check for anything else that may be disconnected like the MAF, TPS, or Intake temp sensor.

[JGood]

Apparently, the Bentley is wrong, and I should be looking for 540 +/- 10.

So what things should I be looking for, with a no spark condition, with power at the main relay? I know NOTHING about m50's or their ignition systems.

My wiring is good, I just went through and did a continuity test across the harness, and double checked the pin-outs. I have my c104 hooked up (pin 1 to x20 14, pin 3 to x20 pin 24). x20 pin 20 goes to the wire on the green connector on the back of the cluster.

All sensors are hooked up on the engine harness (I never disconnected any of them). I have a ground attached to the drivers side engine arm, the coil pack ground on the rear of the valve cover, the single wire at the front of the engine, the two wires near the ECU grounded, the power wire near the ECU hooked up, the ECU is grounded.

I'm getting fuel pressure, I know because I left a line loose and it sprayed everywhere. The line from the pump is on the bottom silver hard line. I switched them just for shits and giggles, no change.

[Jean]

Crankshaft position/rpm sensor should be 1280 ohms +/- 10% according to e36 bentley.

[JGood]

Yep, that's how mine are.

Now the fucker won't start. It cranks and cranks and cranks, and gets fuel pressure, but no spark. Main relay has power.

Any common things to check?

I have 537 ohms on my CPS... I thought that was the m20 expected rating, and m50 was 1280? The engine ran great before I removed it a few months ago from the 525i...

I also hooked pin 20 of x20 up to my wire going to the green tach connector, and the tach doesn't jump at all when I try to crank it over.

[Jean]

It's an e34 block so I had to shift them back to the holes the e36 uses. There's 6 holes total, I have both sides on the rear 4 holes. I'm using e36 brackets, and I pulled them off the e36.

This is how the mounts mounted connected on my m52 if this helps :

driver side-



passenger side-

[JGood]

Do you have the alignment nub on the inside hole, engine mount stud on the outside hole? I find that you sometimes have to bend the nub to push the hex mounts as far outward in the slot as possible.

Yep, and it fit pretty good.

How do you have your engine left/right arms connected to the block? Maybe problem is there?

It's an e34 block so I had to shift them back to the holes the e36 uses. There's 6 holes total, I have both sides on the rear 4 holes. I'm using e36 brackets, and I pulled them off the e36.

[FredK]

Do you have the alignment nub on the inside hole, engine mount stud on the outside hole? I find that you sometimes have to bend the nub to push the hex mounts as far outward in the slot as possible.

[Jean]

How do you have your engine left/right arms connected to the block? Maybe problem is there?

[JGood]

I put the drivers side green hex mount on the passenger side, and vice-versa. Sits the exact same way.

I don't know what else to do...

[318isbmw]

Yeah, I've done that 10+ times. It settles to the same place. I removed everything from the engine bay so I can see how everything is sitting, and the arms are on the mounts flush, the mounts are on the subframe flush. Nothing is hitting near the firewall.

I'm about to just say fuck it and try to put it together as is. Will that angle really kill the driveshaft/guibo/CSB?

Thats wierd. Funk and I tried flippin the mounts and stuff like that and got it to work. But first time we threw it in it was like yours. We took mounts out and argued about the way they should go and then threw them in and it worked magically...

[JGood]

Yeah I just drew a straight line over it in photoshop, and now I see just how far off it is. I'm not driving it like that.