m50 in, driveshaft not straight

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by Beej '86 325es
    I had a hell of a time getting my driveshaft and tranny straight as well. It's still not perfect, but straighter than what you're showing in the picture. I ended up slotting the outer holes in the subframe as far as I could and that helped a little. I used a straight edge butted against the crank pulley and tried to line in up with the front frame as best as I could. It made getting the shifter lined up properly really difficult. I'm hoping that once it's been driven for a while things might work their way into the positions they need to be in and I can loosen and retighten the mounts.

    Do you notice any drivetrain vibration with your current setup?

    I ended up slotting my engine mount arms instead. I think it helped a little.

    I do have a very slight vibration in the bottom of 2nd gear at very low RPM's, but who knows what that's from. I had a bad vibration before the swap due to a bad guibo. I've had the car torn apart so many times recently it's hard to tell what is causing what. For all I know, the driveshaft could be out of balance.

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  • Beej '86 325es
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    My driveshaft is angled like a son of a bitch, but it works great (I think 3k miles or so now...).

    I'll report back when my guibo and CSB self destruct and put the driveshaft through the floorboard.

    I never touched the driveshaft, so if my CSB needs flipped then there must have been lawn gnomes coming in at night messing with my stuff.

    Seriously though, nothing is 'normal' on my swap. The shit is crooked, the rad hoses don't fit, etc... Nothing fits right. I think my chassis is different or I accidentally put in an s54 or something.
    I had a hell of a time getting my driveshaft and tranny straight as well. It's still not perfect, but straighter than what you're showing in the picture. I ended up slotting the outer holes in the subframe as far as I could and that helped a little. I used a straight edge butted against the crank pulley and tried to line in up with the front frame as best as I could. It made getting the shifter lined up properly really difficult. I'm hoping that once it's been driven for a while things might work their way into the positions they need to be in and I can loosen and retighten the mounts.

    Do you notice any drivetrain vibration with your current setup?

    Leave a comment:


  • 318isbmw
    replied
    Originally posted by asubimmer
    mine was from and auto and I didn't hook up the reverse switch. Everything works perfect.
    Did the same with mine also.

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  • asubimmer
    replied
    Originally posted by RobertK
    Was your car originally an automatic car? Do you have the reverse switch wire hooked up?
    mine was from and auto and I didn't hook up the reverse switch. Everything works perfect.

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by 1991 e30 bmw 318is
    so what was the problem in the end with the misalignment? i'm having a similar problem. i think i need to flip my csb.....

    My driveshaft is angled like a son of a bitch, but it works great (I think 3k miles or so now...).

    I'll report back when my guibo and CSB self destruct and put the driveshaft through the floorboard.

    I never touched the driveshaft, so if my CSB needs flipped then there must have been lawn gnomes coming in at night messing with my stuff.

    Seriously though, nothing is 'normal' on my swap. The shit is crooked, the rad hoses don't fit, etc... Nothing fits right. I think my chassis is different or I accidentally put in an s54 or something.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1991 e30 bmw 318is
    replied
    so what was the problem in the end with the misalignment? i'm having a similar problem. i think i need to flip my csb.....

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by SpecM
    maybe bent subframe(s)... refering to your origianal problem...
    I think it's weird the CSB/Guibo/u-joints have help up fine for so long with everything tweaked that far if that's the case.

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  • SpecM
    replied
    maybe bent subframe(s)... refering to your origianal problem...

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by RobertK
    Was your car originally an automatic car? Do you have the reverse switch wire hooked up?
    Yes it was, but it started fine for the past 3-4 years since I did the swap. Also, without that hooked up, it won't even crank.

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  • RobertK
    replied
    Was your car originally an automatic car? Do you have the reverse switch wire hooked up?

    Leave a comment:


  • 416stroker
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    Hmmm... I'll see if I can confirm in another manual since you are saying Bentley is wrong...

    Two TB flaps, sounds like you are you using an OBD2 tb?
    His cps reading is fine. Bentley is wrong 540 is ok.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    The only one that fits an e30....

    As I said, everything minus the engine has worked fine in the car for years... nothing changed.

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  • Mako18
    replied
    what diff cover are you using? maybe its the pic but the diff looks a little cocked to the right, just a thought. Also I will snap some pics of my mounting arms on my m50 just for more reference.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by BenM
    From what you describe, I believe that is the ASC+T. Maybe someone can tell you for sure. I think it can be deleted easily.

    You are right, this is what I have...



    Is this going to cause an issue not being hooked up? I'll deal with removing that stuff after I get the damn thing running if I can...

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    Hmmm... I'll see if I can confirm in another manual since you are saying Bentley is wrong...

    Two TB flaps, sounds like you are you using an OBD2 tb?

    I pulled it from a 94. It has a red label ECU as well.

    Leave a comment:

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