The Infamous No Fuel - No Spark

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  • RobertK
    replied
    No starty, I try Tara's ECU again.

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  • rs4pro3
    replied
    well sounds like we have it narrowed down to the fuel pumps not turning on. We verified all power and grounds and they all checked out. I had robert jump the relay to make the pumps run, but his battery was too dead to crank the car. So hopefully once his battery is charged up we'll be able to figure out what is up. But right now it's starting to sound like the ecu is bad and is not grounding the fuel pump relay to kick the pumps on.

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  • mattdk318i
    replied
    gosh, im glad i use the whole harness on my swap. Sorry i cant be of any help

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by rs4pro3
    also Robert I'd verify on the DME connector that you have all the following power and grounds(you can check grounds, by using the negative side of your test light on the pin #, and then hook the positive to a known working positive)

    Power
    pin #
    26=constant 12volt from battery
    54=switched 12 volt from main relay
    56=switched 12volt from ignition switch(comes threw pin 21 on the e36 engine harness x20 plug)

    Ground
    pin #
    55
    6
    34

    Thanks for that info, I'm going to check all that on mine as well.

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  • RobertK
    replied
    I'll call you this evening when I get home and I'll be sure to take plenty of asprin before I start.

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  • rs4pro3
    replied
    Check those power and grounds on the DME plug and let me know what you find, and we can go from there.

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  • RobertK
    replied
    If all else fails I would be more than willing to give you gas $$ and thensome.

    If anyone can figure this out, Ely, its you.

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  • SpecM
    replied
    good luck Robert

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  • rs4pro3
    replied
    If I was a tad closer I'd just run right up, but got to save gas money for the rally.

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  • RobertK
    replied
    As late as it was I wouldn't be surprised if I wasn't testing something correctly.

    I never was any good with electrical troubleshooting and I'm sure my fatigue and lacl of proper lighting last night didn't help.

    I will try to hammer on it this afternoon when I get home from work today but I'm already tempted to PAY someone to get this bastard running. My brain is fried.

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  • rs4pro3
    replied
    also Robert I'd verify on the DME connector that you have all the following power and grounds(you can check grounds, by using the negative side of your test light on the pin #, and then hook the positive to a known working positive)

    Power
    pin #
    26=constant 12volt from battery
    54=switched 12 volt from main relay
    56=switched 12volt from ignition switch(comes threw pin 21 on the e36 engine harness x20 plug)

    Ground
    pin #
    55
    6
    34
    Last edited by rs4pro3; 09-29-2008, 07:58 AM.

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  • rs4pro3
    replied
    I wired up Robert's adapter for him, and i went over it all many, many times. the one test I had Robert do last night showed that the main relay is turning on, but not the fuel pump relay, as it appears to be not getting a ground signal from the ecu. So I had him jumper the fuel pump relay, and his pumps would not run, so I had him start at the fuel pump fuse and work his way backwards trying to figure out why his pump wouldn't run. Before jumpering the relay he said he had power at pin 30 on the fuel pump relay which he did, so assuming that he properly jumpered from pins 30 to 87. I had him check for 12 volts at the fuel pump fuse, nothing, worked our way back to the e36 side of the engine harness(completely eliminating the harness adapter) and he still had no 12 volt. So judging from that if he was actually testing everything correctly, then there is some sort of problem on the engine harness side itself.

    I used the factory e36 92 ETM and have been cross reference it as I've had robert trouble shoot everything. These are other charts I cross referenced to just to tripple check.



    http://www.akgmotorsport.com/e30convpins.html

    Robert's adapter is wired up as so E36 x20 side=e30 c101 side
    x=2 Oil level static(not hooked up yet)
    x=10 Oil level dynamic(not hooked up yet)
    7=pin #2 e30 c104 plug(green wire) OBC imobilization
    8=12 Check engine light
    12=4 Engine coolant temp
    13=13 Fuel pump relay
    14=14 vehicle speed output
    15=18 (unloader relay)
    17=16 diagnostic connector
    18=18 starter
    19=11 S.I. reset
    20=pin #1 e30 c104 plug (black wire) Engine tach
    21=7
    22=6
    23=5
    24=pin #3 e30 c104 plug(white wire) fuel econ gauge
    25=1
    Last edited by rs4pro3; 09-29-2008, 07:45 AM.

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  • JGood
    replied
    Check the pinouts of your adapter. Everybody makes mistakes.

    I checked mine at least 5 times before I finally convinced myself its good. And by checked, I mean went through the schematics, made the conversion chart from scratch, then checked it against my harness adapter, then verified continuity across the adapter. And I did this AFTER proving (via DME functionality) that my adapter is good.

    If it's getting no spark and no fuel, that's the FIRST thing I'd start with...

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  • SpecM
    replied
    Originally posted by RobertK
    Where? Do you mean the harness connector or the entire harness

    What pisses me off is I know this harness is good, this engine was running fine one week ago with this exact wire harness and ECU.
    he meant the connector/adapter

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  • RobertK
    replied
    Originally posted by golde30
    i vote for wiring harness. double check the wiring.
    Where? Do you mean the harness connector or the entire harness

    What pisses me off is I know this harness is good, this engine was running fine one week ago with this exact wire harness and ECU.

    Leave a comment:

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