I've had a mystery code ever since I did my swap (13 O2 Sensor Circuit) that I was unable to get rid of, no matter what I tried. I tried different O2 sensors, DMEs, chips and eventually a new connector and harness but still it would appear. It got so frustrating that eventually I just wired up a little LED light to light up the floor in place of my check engine light and I would check the codes periodically to make sure nothing new had popped up.
Finally I picked up an Innovate LM-1 and decided to stop fucking around. One selling point for the LM-1 was the ability to set the Analog Output to mimic a 0-1 volt stock O2 sensor but I figured even if that didn't work I'd at least have the wideband monitoring capabilities so I could at least know what the fuck was going on inside my engine even if the DME didn't. Hooking up the LM-1 was pretty straightforward, I had to remove some of the insulation from the firewall/tranny tunnel so the wires at the end of the sensor didn't get pinched (headers) but that was about it. I hooked up a cigarette lighter plug to my flashlight charger wires and plugged the LM-1 into that and then the analog out got wired to the black O2 ground wire in the ECU plug (pin 40.) For the time being the LM-1 lives in the storage compartment in front of the ashtray (it's a perfect fit actually) but I'll find someplace to mount it permenantly.
Once it was calibrated and installed I plugged in my Snap-On scantool and started trying DME/Chip combos. I had a silver label 506, and then silver and red label 413s and Turner chips for each number. Finally, I ended up going with the silver label 413 with the 506 Turner chip and now have normal O2 sensor function (at least according to my scantool) and no codes. Perhaps this combo would have worked with the stock o2 sensor (I never tried it) but I still think there was a backfeeding issue from the O2 sensor heating circuit and I know have wideband and datalogging capabilities.
The car runs MUCH better and has a fair bit more power now and the AFRs seem to be bang on what they should be. I've long said the best modification that one can do is fixing the broken bits but it was cool to see it in practice like this.
Cheers,
Brendan
Finally I picked up an Innovate LM-1 and decided to stop fucking around. One selling point for the LM-1 was the ability to set the Analog Output to mimic a 0-1 volt stock O2 sensor but I figured even if that didn't work I'd at least have the wideband monitoring capabilities so I could at least know what the fuck was going on inside my engine even if the DME didn't. Hooking up the LM-1 was pretty straightforward, I had to remove some of the insulation from the firewall/tranny tunnel so the wires at the end of the sensor didn't get pinched (headers) but that was about it. I hooked up a cigarette lighter plug to my flashlight charger wires and plugged the LM-1 into that and then the analog out got wired to the black O2 ground wire in the ECU plug (pin 40.) For the time being the LM-1 lives in the storage compartment in front of the ashtray (it's a perfect fit actually) but I'll find someplace to mount it permenantly.
Once it was calibrated and installed I plugged in my Snap-On scantool and started trying DME/Chip combos. I had a silver label 506, and then silver and red label 413s and Turner chips for each number. Finally, I ended up going with the silver label 413 with the 506 Turner chip and now have normal O2 sensor function (at least according to my scantool) and no codes. Perhaps this combo would have worked with the stock o2 sensor (I never tried it) but I still think there was a backfeeding issue from the O2 sensor heating circuit and I know have wideband and datalogging capabilities.
The car runs MUCH better and has a fair bit more power now and the AFRs seem to be bang on what they should be. I've long said the best modification that one can do is fixing the broken bits but it was cool to see it in practice like this.
Cheers,
Brendan
Comment