Hey y'all! New to the forums here, and greatly appreciate all the info I've been combing through. I'm very grateful for the ability to read and learn through your experiences!
Earlier in the summer, I happened upon a 1990 325i, automatic, with an m20 that crapped the bed, then sat for many years (DOT code on the tires is '08). The car has zero rust, a few dings that my PDR guy can take care of, and has never been modified in any way. (except for the cassette to headphones adapter in the tape player and some aged tint, ha!)
My goal for the car is to boost/build it for a useable horsepower curve. I would love to hit 500hp, but it's more important that my rpm range is useful and I don't have to wind it up to 4000 to get decent pull.
Since the car has been sitting for likely more than a decade, I've purchased a new fuel tank, and a Walbro 255. After some learning, I believe I will be upgrading to run a dual pump setup with another Walbro 255. (Any leads on the parts to set this up would be greatly appreciated.) I will be tuning this for 91+ octane.
I picked up a trashed '95 convertible with 138k for the M50B25 single vanos. TU engine I think. Found a stripped out '97 with a ZF 5 speed.
After I amassed nearly all the parts I needed to perform the M50 swap, I happened upon a good running M54B30 as well.
I have a Garagistic chassis mount shifter, condor motor and trans mounts, and a bunch of other odds and ends I'll be needing for the swap. (front sump pan, chase bays brake booster delete and new brake lines, pedals, etc)
Here's where I could use a bit of guidance. I'm pulling the m50 apart to install head studs (ARP 201-4302), and run a thicker head gasket to drop the compression.
I'd like to boost this thing silly. Are these thicker head gaskets safe to run? Last thing I want is to get this all together, and push boost through the head gasket.
I'm also trying to decide whether I should pull the rotating assembly out of the b30 to stroke the m50, or if I should sell it to recoup some money and put that elsewhere. The b30 doesn't have a harness or ecm, so I'd rather not start gathering parts to swap that whole engine in. I'm also not sure how much work it is to swap in the b30 assy. Like, I'll need new rings and rod bearings I assume. I'm not worried about either engine having any damage, but I'm not sure how much extra work will need to be done. I'm planning to do a valve job, and I'm willing to do more machine work, but I do not want to get into buying new pistons and all that. Should I just slap the m54 block under the m50 head?
Would also love some input on what cams to run, and which turbo would pair well. The GT35 seemed like a good option to me. I'm seeing the GT3582 for like $109, and the GT3584R that's like $450+.....what gives?
Again, thanks in advance for any help or guidance!
Earlier in the summer, I happened upon a 1990 325i, automatic, with an m20 that crapped the bed, then sat for many years (DOT code on the tires is '08). The car has zero rust, a few dings that my PDR guy can take care of, and has never been modified in any way. (except for the cassette to headphones adapter in the tape player and some aged tint, ha!)
My goal for the car is to boost/build it for a useable horsepower curve. I would love to hit 500hp, but it's more important that my rpm range is useful and I don't have to wind it up to 4000 to get decent pull.
Since the car has been sitting for likely more than a decade, I've purchased a new fuel tank, and a Walbro 255. After some learning, I believe I will be upgrading to run a dual pump setup with another Walbro 255. (Any leads on the parts to set this up would be greatly appreciated.) I will be tuning this for 91+ octane.
I picked up a trashed '95 convertible with 138k for the M50B25 single vanos. TU engine I think. Found a stripped out '97 with a ZF 5 speed.
After I amassed nearly all the parts I needed to perform the M50 swap, I happened upon a good running M54B30 as well.
I have a Garagistic chassis mount shifter, condor motor and trans mounts, and a bunch of other odds and ends I'll be needing for the swap. (front sump pan, chase bays brake booster delete and new brake lines, pedals, etc)
Here's where I could use a bit of guidance. I'm pulling the m50 apart to install head studs (ARP 201-4302), and run a thicker head gasket to drop the compression.
I'd like to boost this thing silly. Are these thicker head gaskets safe to run? Last thing I want is to get this all together, and push boost through the head gasket.
I'm also trying to decide whether I should pull the rotating assembly out of the b30 to stroke the m50, or if I should sell it to recoup some money and put that elsewhere. The b30 doesn't have a harness or ecm, so I'd rather not start gathering parts to swap that whole engine in. I'm also not sure how much work it is to swap in the b30 assy. Like, I'll need new rings and rod bearings I assume. I'm not worried about either engine having any damage, but I'm not sure how much extra work will need to be done. I'm planning to do a valve job, and I'm willing to do more machine work, but I do not want to get into buying new pistons and all that. Should I just slap the m54 block under the m50 head?
Would also love some input on what cams to run, and which turbo would pair well. The GT35 seemed like a good option to me. I'm seeing the GT3582 for like $109, and the GT3584R that's like $450+.....what gives?
Again, thanks in advance for any help or guidance!
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