Del 2.0

[experim3ntal]

Bought this M50 swapped 318 in Puerto Rico while I was working down there. Shipped it home, dropped the M50 in favor of an S52 and un-phucking all the half ass work they did on the initial M50 swap and cleaning up the engine bay. OBD 1 S52 M50 Manifold ZF 5 Speed Power Steering Delete AC Delete I’m cleaning up the wiring harness now which I believe was off the M50 donor car which was a 93 325i Auto. The S52 and M50 are slightly different so I’m trying to figure out what I need and don’t need with the M50 to S52 change over. Can anyone help me identify some of these wires and advise which crank sensor I need for s52 with OBD 1 harness. I’m going to replace this one that has soldered wires... at least I think it’s a Crank Position Sensor... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

I've heard of people using the M44 crank sensor ( 12141247622 ) to mount in the OBD2 position but give a VR output for OBD1 cars.

Not sure if the trigger wheel is the same but people say it works?

[experim3ntal]

Thanks a bunch. I intend to use the M44 sensor at the rear of the crank case and leave the front sensor out and it’s location vacant.

Onto a new problem, I have no plug for O2 sensor on the harness. The car had no 02 installed with the M50 swap... and a couple of leads on the harness are snipped. There is two bungs way up high on the S52 manifolds nearly immediately where they joint from 3 into 1. The car is 3 into 2 nearly all the way back so what’s the most ideal location for the sensor installation?

I found Black and Yellow at Pins 70 and 71 at the DME now I need to find the other two wires being the Green Wire at Terminal 87 on the 02 relay and the ground. The ground for the 02 sensor on the 1992 M50 cars call for it to be grounded at G103, I’ve found there is no G103 station (fender/chassis ground on the E36) on this early E30 so where would be a suitable ground for the O2 sensor if I have to run a new ground wire?

Now the hardware... should I run a Bosch 13231 as that’s what the M50 cars call for? Or can I run a universal type 02 sensor and wire it up some which way?

Thanks in advance!

[experim3ntal]

Hey Guys, I split the harness and traced Yellow and Black all the way through and found the O2 harness. All same colors I was looking for in accordance with the schematic... so perfect.. Since I ripped into the harness I pushed it back out the firewall and disconnected a few of the wires under the dash like black for tach speed etc... in the process I think I messed something up and now I don’t have any 12V switched power. I found an old forum suggesting the square C101 cars need an extra lead for ignition switch to become switched power at all the terminals... see this old forum >>> And this is what I have going on underneath my dash in the glove box.... It looks like black was snipped into and tied into the DME for tach speed data... Green/Red is constant 12V, I don’t know where that went... I stuck it into pin 2 (green) of the 3 pin pictured and that seemed to close a relay and trick the car into thinking it was on key power... Plzzzzz helpssssss Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

You mentioned it's a square C101 car, not sure if your chassis is an 84 or an 85 so if it's an 84 apparently pin 4 and 7 are a different colour.
Looks like there should be switched power there?


(Image stolen from Kadunza's Facebook page)

Looks like that green wire in C104 should be switched, as well as pin 10? so did someone change it?

I have absolutely no idea where those red wires could be coming from unless they are aftermarket?

[experim3ntal]

The chassis is an 85. I’ll test for switched power at the C104 this afternoon and let you know what I find... I’ll disregard the red wires for now until I can see where they end up unless they’re part of the problem. The possibility of someone having changed this or bypassing something is highly likely. Thanks for you help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[experim3ntal]

You mentioned it's a square C101 car, not sure if your chassis is an 84 or an 85 so if it's an 84 apparently pin 4 and 7 are a different colour. Looks like there should be switched power there? (Image stolen from Kadunza's Facebook page)

Looks like that green wire in C104 should be switched, as well as pin 10? so did someone change it? I have absolutely no idea where those red wires could be coming from unless they are aftermarket?

Pins 6 and 10 have 12V on switched power...

Green (middle pin) on the 3 pin under the dash is also 12V on switch.

Still no switched power at the main DME relay.

[Northern]

Could you trace the trigger power for the main relay and see where it goes, then hook it up to one of the switched 12v sources?

[experim3ntal]

Got the motor in but still chasing wires... I think I’m gunna hook everything up and diagnose from there. What do you mean by trace the trigger wire and then supply it with 12V power I’m not hanging with your last post? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[experim3ntal]

I have no idea what’s going on with the speaker wire extension for the constant power to the Main DME relay... There is 12V to the DME There is not 12V on the switch to the chassis harness... figured this out because I’m trying to wire up the thermo switch for electric fan to the high speed relay (pin 87) which previously had switched power but no longer does Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

If the DME relay trigger in the harness has constant 12V, it seems like someone has changed the wiring somewhere?

Should only be triggered by the ignition, so either the adapter is setup wrong or someone spliced it into something else in the harness?
Either that speaker wire is the fucked spot or you'll see something else while tracing the wire to see how it gets constant 12v

[experim3ntal]

On the DME relay with the ignition switch off... I have 12V through the red white wires and nothing through solid red wires. With key on I have 12V at all terminals. Ground pin is good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

I think I misunderstood somewhere, You said a few posts back you don't have switched +12V, or switched power at the main/DME relay.

Sounds like it is working normally from your last post? I think 2 wires with +12V at all times is normal since it's a 5 wire relay

[experim3ntal]

All correct. I don’t have signal from the ignition. I have constant to the fan relay (pin 30 on K6 relay) but nothing going through it with the key on to signal the relay to go live. I have continuity in that wire from pin 87 on the fuse box out to the BLK/BLU on the chassis harness. No ignition signal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

Fan relay should be triggered by the temp switch in the rad, so I wouldn't worry about a lack switched 12V on that relay.