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ZF trans, shifter, driveline questions

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    ZF trans, shifter, driveline questions

    Hey guys, I'm piecing together parts for an M52 swap with a ZF trans that I got from a 1997 Z3. I have questions about the shifter parts and driveshaft, which I don't have because they weren't available.

    For the driveshaft, I've seen conflicting information.
    Do I use only an E36 shaft, or do I use E36 front, E30 rear?
    The years: an E36 from '96 to '99, correct? Does it have to be from an 328, or does a 323 work as well?
    If it must be pieced together from the two cars, it has to be rebalanced, right?
    Some people say to mount the CSB backwards, others say normally... which is it?
    When I install the CSB, how is the length of the shaft set? (Does it have to be set in the car, or can it be done without)
    Is the guibo the same as theE30? The bolts too? Or do I need the E36 guibo/bolts? I heard the M3 one is bigger but that's not an option here.


    For the shifter, I don't have any of the parts, so,
    I need the carrier: Same question: The years: an E36 from '96 to '99, correct? Does the carrier have to be from an 328, or does a 323 work as well? There's a '99 323is at my local junkyard, and there's a '96 328is at a yard quite a ways away from me. I need to know if I have to drive far for the right part.

    I looked at realoem for part numbers.
    The 328: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=25_0577
    The 323: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=25_0577

    The carriers have different part numbers, and #2 mentions round vs oval bearing sleeve. What difference does it make in regards to the swap?
    Do I need to grab #2 when I get the carrier? How is the rear of the E36 carrier held in the E30?

    Does the selector rod have to be aftermarket? Does it have to be bent? Does it have to be specifically designed for a ZF being used in an E30 chassis?

    Can/do I use my stock shift lever, with stock shift knob?


    Honestly I'm a little surprised I haven't come across this information yet. It's like I'm just oblivious and this info is obvious, or no one else has really had to look into it as much as I have.
    There's a lot of questions here, but I'm genuinely unsure and appreciate the help in having them all answered.

    Currently building a badass coffee table
    Random stuff on insta @kevanromero

    #2
    you need to use parts from a ZF equipped e36. propshaft and shifting assembly. only 328i or m3 came with ZF boxes.
    '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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      #3
      For the driveshaft, you’ll want a complete e36 328 manual or 4-bolt e36 M3 manual driveshaft (the earlier e36 M3 driveshafts use the 6 bolt CV style rear half). Probably not a bad idea to get it rebuilt and balanced if the u-joints are worse for wear.

      The center support bearing is going to be the one for specific year/model e30. It doesn’t get installed “backwards” but the CSB mounts onto the rear half of the e36 driveshaft (vs the front half of the stock e30 driveshaft).

      Shifter linkage (carrier, selector rod, selector joint, etc.) should come from a manual 328 or M3 e36. You will use the e30 rear shift carrier body mount though. The ZF shifter linkage uses the oval front bushings (good time to upgrade to the delrin style ones). Unfortunately the 323 e36 uses the g250 as found in the earlier m50 325 e36, so the linkage is different from what you need for the ZF.

      For the guibo kit, I’d suggest getting one for an e36 m3 (what I use in my car), it’s thicker than the 328 version. With the driveshaft center nut loosened, you’ll be able to adjust the length accordingly once in the car.

      The selector rod is bent on the stock e36 328/M3 (I think for guibo clearance and since the 328/M3 stock lever has a different fulcrum point vs the earlier e36 & e30 shift lever). Another opportunity to upgrade to an e36 328/M3 DSSR. Stock e30 shift lever is probably not ideal, so I’d stick with the levers from e36 328/M3, Z3, or e60 545 (which all accept the push-on factory knobs).

      Comment


        #4
        Great info above.

        You can also use a "big guibo" E30 driveshaft from an early 325e. Drop's into an early chassis - just needs a center bearing change for a late chassis.

        I did not have luck with the E36 shift carrier lining up in the center of the tunnel cut-out but many have reported it works just fine. Can confirm that the E36 328i selector rod is the way to go. I have found all of the shift lever options have some lean towards the passenger side so depending on your preferences, they might require some bending.

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          #5
          Thank you guys!
          I'm installing this into an 04/87 body.
          So based on this information, my plan is to use:

          '96-'99 E36 328i/s complete manual driveshaft. Split it in half to install my current CSB; figure out which way it faces, starting with normally/forwards. Also, inspect U-joints.

          Shift linkage comes from the same car^. Maintain E30 rear bracket to support the carrier. Recommended replacement of bushings with Delrin (found at Garagistic).

          It is recommended to upgrade to the M3 guibo because it is thicker. Is that the only difference? Does it still line up with the 328 flange? Do I need larger bolts?

          I don't need a new selector rod, but it is recommended to upgrade to a DSSR, which will have a bend.

          The shift lever should be from the same car^, I'm guessing because the throw/fulcrum is better.

          And for maintenance sake, I'll replace the input & output shaft seals, the selector seal, the selector joint, and the plastic pivot joint with a new plastic piece. Plus a new slave cylinder. Am I missing anything before installing this in the car?
          Thanks again!

          Currently building a badass coffee table
          Random stuff on insta @kevanromero

          Comment


            #6
            You may want to do the shift detents/shift pins in the gearbox while going through all the seals, etc.

            Excellent DIY: http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/2013/1...on-shift-pins/

            Best combo for clutch hydraulics is to use the E36 328i slave and line. I tried the E46 slave to get better access to the bleeder but in application it made the situation worse.

            Comment


              #7
              if you need shifting parts, i found a stock '95 M3 shifting arm, selector rod and shift lever, all from the same car. $150 delivered
              '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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