Help wiring oil temp gauge to S54

[R3Z3N]

Well, no matter how your HVAC is wired, that won't send an out of bounds signal to the PWM sensor causing it to fail. (assuming PWM module wiring is correct)

Also as NANDO said, the E36 oil level sensor is not correct for the E46 MSS54/HP.

[moatilliatta]

The oil in the ofh is more accurate, it’s after cooler and going into motor. Not just out of motor in the sump.

You can can use a block off plate on the oil pan if wanted, but it would be cool to keep if wanted to log later on. I’m trying to remember what car those are off of. I have some in the shelf if interested in part number.

[nando]

E36 sensor is completely different, it's basically the same as the E30 (level switch). It doesn't measure temperature or actual level. Your DME is probably still set to read the E46 sensor.

[moatilliatta]

No need to use a crapy block. You can take the socket head plug out of the oil filter housing and add an m12 to 1/8 npt adapter. Auto meter makes one.

Another nice bit is you have flow going over the sensor.

You can also tap the vanos line banjo bolt to add a remote mount oil pressure hose. 1/8 npt to -3..

Untitled by Zachary Ketring, on Flickr

[Staszek]

This is a different problem, the AC issue I think may be some bad wiring behind the dash that is causing a short in the HVAC.

That being said we got an oil level sensor code. This is the “oil conditioning sensor” at the bottom of the pan. The sensor measures temp, level, and pressure. I’d prefer not to code this off due to those functionalities. It could be that the OEM E36 sensor is bad since it is old. Since I cant change it unless I do an oil change I am going to wait a bit then change it on my next oil change after the winter.

[nando]

Yeah I don't think the CAN controller has anything to do with it. The fan module is totally standalone (unlike the EKP, which does use PT-CAN).

If you want to test it I could send you my module. It's been collecting dust in my garage for years, so no big loss. To me, PWM control is far superior to an on/off thermoswitch.

[R3Z3N]

^The E46 PWM module. I know there was a large bad batch of them from a certain MFG, maybe wholly unlucky. Its just
12v Constant > 50A fuse > PWM Module,
Battery Ground > PWM module,
ECU > PWM module,
then the Positive and Negative wires to the fan. It has nothing to do with Gary's controller, nor necessarily any coding done.

So either incorrect wiring, or 2 faulty PWM modules. I believe Volvo and many fords used the same module.

Gen 2 of Garry's CAN Controller (Stazek may be on Gen 1 which the pic is also hosted on github:)

[nando]

What fan control module was he running? It's been years since I bought a control module hacked off an M3 radiator. I have never tested it but I see no reason it wouldn't work.

Hell, the E90 N52 uses the same sensor and basic PWM module - and it has no clutch fan from the factory. It relies entirely on the electric fan, much like an E30 S54 swap does. It works reliably and has never skipped a beat.

I ran an electric fan only on my M20 for years. It performed better (less drag), but I relied on the 80c thermoswitch (with stock AC fan wiring) to control the fan - which got really old as a DD. The on/off was super harsh and affected idle quality. Eventually, I ditched it and installed a clutch fan.

The PWM controller appeales to me because it reacts to actual thermal loads much more smoothly. I couldn't ever tell you if the 330i fan was running, unless the windows are down and I can hear it...

[R3Z3N]

Agreed. However he has been trying to utilize the PWM fan, but it has burnt out 2 of them. For some reason they run for ~15min (right?) then no longer power the fan. So "we" have opted not to use the PWM fan controller, but instead the stock E30 wiring/design.

Best of both worlds that way with ease of stock wiring, and idle compensation when AC is on. Though having a working PWM module would be so much kinder to the wiring.... and give easier fan speed schemes that are easily tuned. (For those that don't know, a relay controlled fan is hard on the wiring when the fan kicks on. The amp draw can be hard on the wiring, and the fan itself.)

[nando]

You only need the radiator outlet temp sensor if you are using the dme to control the electric fan. Otherwise, it's totally useless and you should code it off.

[R3Z3N]

^My additions have nothing to do with the ECU, nor technically the Guage Cluster (except for the voltmeter).

Which code do you get? My guess lower rad temp sensor? If that is the case, weld in the bung and wire it to the ECU, or code it out.

[Staszek]

So this is how I did it on mine:

Hey Justin,

Did you get a check engine light from using two sensors? I am throwing a code.

[R3Z3N]

So this is how I did it on mine:

[terraphantm]

Hmm I am wondering of G Peterson Can Bus can send it?

It might not do so right now, but I can't imagine it would be particularly difficult for him to add the capability to his software.

[Staszek]

Yup, I have the podi gauge and I'm utilizing this exact distribution block so that I can get oil temp among other things.

Thanks looks like a clean solution.