iX strut housing modification

[aaron325ix]

"We shorten them one inch.


To be honest, I have no idea how someone could shorten them two inches. If you do that, then the tire is in the way, and the adjustment cant be used anyways. My only thinking is that the people on the forums "shortened two Inches" are using VW struts (bad idea) and / or using a camber plate that takes up room at the top (so not GC plates)


As far as justifying leaving off the sway bar so you don't have to fabricate a sway bar bracket? Thats for other people, not GC. If someone thinks they are smarter or more clever than BMW engineers, then I disagree."

A guy from Ground Control

[moatilliatta]

Coilovers been interfering with tire clearance since the beginning of coilovers.

Maybe you talked to a new guy?

[aaron325ix]

so now the guys at GC are saying they cant take 2 inches out of the strut housing as it will interfere with the side wall of the tire. Seems like most everyone of you who has done it has taken exactly that much out without problems.

[aaron325ix]

Its hard to beat the price on some one who is setup to do the service.

What are you going to run for springs and ride height?

GC can also reinforce the knuckle part to the damper tube.

I'll be running the same springs that are on there now. 600 front and 700 rear. The car is pretty slammed right now so I will probably bump it up a half inch or so.

[moatilliatta]

I was able to get the GC adjuster off of one of my front struts. Dremel cut off wheel, hammer and flat head screwdriver did the trick. No damage to the strut housing!

I don't know why this picture is so satisfying.

[moatilliatta]

Its hard to beat the price on some one who is setup to do the service.

What are you going to run for springs and ride height?

GC can also reinforce the knuckle part to the damper tube.

[aaron325ix]

After looking at all of that I think I'm just going to send the strut housings into GC to get them modified. The local guy who was going to do it quoted me $400 which is the same as GC but they will also powder coat it. Not to mention, if getting those adjusters off is as difficult as it looks I can leave that up to them as well and hopefully they will replace them if need be and not charge me for it. Fingers crossed.

It could take 10-20 days for them to return them but its probably still better than the other options.

[E30andy]

jeez, that looks awful. I'm hoping enough lube and heat will do it once I get them out but it doesnt sound promising.

Texas chainsaw massacre for sure. Good stress reliever cutting and beating on it. No amount of heat or lube would have worked (on mine anyway).

[aaron325ix]

I was able to get the GC adjuster off of one of my front struts. Dremel cut off wheel, hammer and flat head screwdriver did the trick. No damage to the strut housing!

jeez, that looks awful. I'm hoping enough lube and heat will do it once I get them out but it doesnt sound promising.

[E30andy]

I was able to get the GC adjuster off of one of my front struts. Dremel cut off wheel, hammer and flat head screwdriver did the trick. No damage to the strut housing!

[aaron325ix]

Yeah I've had to replace boots a few times for sure - never had an axle pop out though. For sure, if I dropped my adjusters all the way, that would probably be way too much angle for the CV shafts to handle. But even with just H&R sports, you only have like 1.5" of travel and it's not that low. You could shorten the housings 2", keep the H&R sports and same ride height, and stop bottoming out.

Since the set up you have seems to be working well, is there any chance you might be able to send me some measurements on where you cut and where you welded the spring perch? Maybe some pics? I was also wondering about the spacer you put in the bottom of the modified strut housing. Just a solid piece of steel will do at about 2 inches assuming I cut 2 inches out of my housings? I've seen some people put ATF fluid in there for heat dissipation as well.

[moatilliatta]

A lot of "racecar" parts use Standard hardware. But yes, if they are making them in house or whatever, it would be cool to have metric 12.9 hardware.

I don't know how many stripped camber plate bolts I've seen from metric tools...

I think also the anodizing causes more friction too..

[aaron325ix]

GC has a clamp screw. But I uses a stainless bolt. So they insta galvanic seize.... No body understands you cant use Stainless hardware in Aluminum. WHY!?

that, and why couldn't they just use a 4mm or 5mm bolt at least?! Everyone has those in their tool kit but a 3/16 you have to search for. Frustrating.

[moatilliatta]

GC has a clamp screw. But I uses a stainless bolt. So they insta galvanic seize.... No body understands you cant use Stainless hardware in Aluminum. WHY!?

[aaron325ix]

yeah, the rears are a bitch. Mine are totally stuck. I screwed around for hours to move them up 1/4".

The fronts are a bit easier, but here's something ironic - I got some ebay adjusters for the front, because I wanted them longer and GC doesn't sell parts. They come apart easily - they use a lock nut method, instead of the set screw that is impossible to get out after a few years.

you just gotta get them really clean - a stiff nylon brush, an air compressor, and maybe some WD-40 will be your friends.

I just bought a 3/16" socket hex so I can hammer it into the set screw and hopefully with lube and maybe some heat I can get it loose. Of course the strut housings will be in a vice when I try this as I can barely reach the set screws as they are as they are facing the inside of the car. once I get to putting everything back together I'm hoping I can adjust the height to where the screws will be facing somewhat out os I can easily access them next time.

Do you think it would be worth it to just order some eBay adjusters before I put things back together instead?