Front wheel play - can someone please check my thinking?

[TimoG]

Was working on the pre-winter checks on my new-to-me 325ix so I could make a list of all the expensive issues that needed to be fixed before winter comes.

Anyway, the car was sold to me as needing new FCAs and bushings. With the front wheels off the ground and me grabbing the wheel at 3 & 9, there is a lot of play when I try to rock the tire - I would guess somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" at the outside of the tire. It's not wheel bearing play either, the wheel is tight when I grab it at the top and bottom and try to rock it.

There is however no visible movement in the FCA itself or the steering tie rods when I rock the wheels. All I can see is the strut move in unison with the wheel. It the same on both sides and it doesn't matter if I put one wheel on the ground (to take up the additional play from the steering with the steering lock engaged) or not.

My best guess so far is that either the bottom ball joint on both FCAs is equally shot or both tie rods are toast. Given the not insubstantial cost of FCAs I don't really want to throw new FCAs at the car only to find out that it wasn't them so what do you ix experts think?

[A Sucked Orange]

Get under the car and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth. That should make it very easy to see what joints have given out.

[TimoG]

Pulled the wheels off this morning and rocked the disks a bit more. With the wheels off it's obvious that the outer balljoints on the FCAs have massive play. I guess that explains the spectacular handling, then.

Am I imagining it or was it possible to get replacement outer balljoints for the ix FCAs, just not necessarily inner ones? I'm trying to figure out if I should splash out on a hydraulic press and attempt to replace the balljoints, or bite the bullet and spring for new FCAs.

[williamtii]

Just get new arms, I just got one from bmwmercedesparts.com for $190 I was going to do the joint only but the inner was $100. Add $20 for presswork and a whole new arm doesn't look as bad. I know outers are cheaper but you will inevitably need inners before you know it.

[nando]

the inners seem to last about 2x as long as the outters though. I wouldn't hesitate to press in a new outter joint, especially if you can DIY.

in all likelyness though, the ball joints are toast. also check FCABs and of course I'd look at the tie rods. best way is to pop them out of the strut housing (buy the harbor freight 3/4" ball joint tool, it's perfect for the ix's outter BJs) and play with them in your hand, if they're really loose then they're shot and should be replaced.

[TimoG]

Well, the way I was looking at it was that it'd give me an excuse to buy an HF press :). I know I need to replace the rubber bushes also (that'll be something else that needs a press). One of the tie rod ends needs at least the rubber cap replaced and as I don't know how long it's been open to the elements, that'll get changed as well.

If the arms didn't look like they are in pristine condition I'd probably change the whole arm but I'm a little hesitant throwing away a large chunk of metal if I don't need to.

[nando]

I'd save them anyway. I threw out a right arm and wish'd I hadn't. I have enough parts stockpiled I could get the ball joints pressed in before hand and then swap them in, rather than buying a whole new arm. except I have no spare right side arms. :(

you never know when parts will go NLA or if BMW will suddenly double the price. $190 for a new arm is pretty dang cheap, but if it was $400.. you'll be glad you have a core laying around to rebuild.

[TimoG]

That's a good reason to keep them, I agree.