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    Measuring my wrecked E34 535i...

    On top of the mounts, the studs are 23 7/8 center to center at the interface plane, with the mounts in the M30 position. The upper and lower studs on the mounts appear to be concentric, even though the mount studs are off center from the mount pads.

    On the crossmember, there are no less than FIVE pairs of mount locations, at three different lateral separations and two different longitudinal planes.

    The M30 locations are 25 1/8 center to center at the interface plane.

    The other locations are 23 9/16 and 22 7/16.

    On each pad, the holes are 13/16 and 1 1/8 apart.

    The M30 mounts are right at 2 1/2" tall.

    On my dad's iX automatic, the engine mount stud centers appear to be 16 1/2" forward of the bellhousing face.

    I'll put my dad's inclinometer to work tomorrow to figure out what the angle of the engine mount pads is.

    Also got my spare iX crossmember to the QC/CMM guy for reverse engineering, but he's in the middle of an ISO audit and probably won't be able to get to it until the end of the month.



    Last edited by The Dark Side of Will; 04-05-2014, 06:35 PM.

    Comment


      Ok guys, i just made custom motor-mounts so the engine now sits there on its own :) Hopefully will get the trans/TC mount done tomorrow!
      E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
      E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
      E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

      Comment


        Just tried the E34 front CV axle length and it seems to be ok!
        E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
        E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
        E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

        Comment


          so I'm assuming you're modifying your firewall, correct?

          this summer I'm going to try to get the oil pan sorted. If I can do that without a crazy custom subframe, all that will be left is mount arms and picking up a motor. I have to get my diffs built too but that's already lined up...
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment


            Originally posted by nando View Post
            so I'm assuming you're modifying your firewall, correct?

            this summer I'm going to try to get the oil pan sorted. If I can do that without a crazy custom subframe, all that will be left is mount arms and picking up a motor. I have to get my diffs built too but that's already lined up...
            Yes the firewall is not what it used to be :P

            Oil pan mod would probably be the easiest way if u want to keep the firewall stock, just shorten the front drive shaft.

            Anyone looked at E34ix motor mounts by the way?
            E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
            E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
            E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

            Comment


              Originally posted by Nisse Järnet View Post
              Just tried the E34 front CV axle length and it seems to be ok!
              E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
              E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
              E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

              Comment


                nice!

                Did you swap ABS rings? Did you have to machine anything on the outter joint to fit into the E30 hub?
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment


                  Originally posted by nando View Post
                  nice!

                  Did you swap ABS rings? Did you have to machine anything on the outter joint to fit into the E30 hub?
                  No not yet, will swap the rings and check if anything needs machining. The nut fits as is and no mod on the threads is needed as far as I can see.
                  E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
                  E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
                  E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Nisse Järnet View Post
                    Yes the firewall is not what it used to be :P

                    Oil pan mod would probably be the easiest way if u want to keep the firewall stock, just shorten the front drive shaft.

                    Anyone looked at E34ix motor mounts by the way?

                    i looked at e34ix mount arms. seems like i remember they fit on the block too far back. i remember they didn't work but can't recall why.

                    Originally posted by Nisse Järnet View Post
                    No not yet, will swap the rings and check if anything needs machining. The nut fits as is and no mod on the threads is needed as far as I can see.
                    on my axles, the machined face that touches the back of the bearing is too big to go inside the carrier. i think if you tighten the axle nut, the axle will be seized and unable to turn without necking it down. this was my experience anyway.

                    also, i found the e30 abs ring is a little smaller inner diameter and larger outside diameter than the stamped ring on the e34 axle. also, i counted a different number of teeth.

                    you can take the cast abs ring off an old e30 rear axle if you wish so you don't have to waste an ix front axle. as far as i can tell they are exactly the same.


                    oil pan: i am coming to the conclusion that i agree with chris on the subject. i am now of the belief that probably the best solution would be to see if the dif section can be cut away and rewelded aft about 1.5".

                    i liked the subframe idea, but don't see any feasibility in modifying suspension points. that one crosses the line from my point of view.
                    sigpic
                    Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

                    88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
                    92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
                    88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
                    88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
                    87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
                    12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by flyboyx View Post
                      oil pan: i am coming to the conclusion that i agree with chris on the subject. i am now of the belief that probably the best solution would be to see if the dif section can be cut away and rewelded aft about 1.5".

                      i liked the subframe idea, but don't see any feasibility in modifying suspension points. that one crosses the line from my point of view.
                      yeah, one complication is the bolt holes are about 2 3/8" on center, so you couldn't just move it one "hole" back. But maybe you could move it as far as it needed to be, and either thread new holes in the block for those bolts, or just leave them out (there's a ton of them, I doubt it would matter much).

                      I'm thinking I'll do studs for most of mine anyway.. the bolts always seem to back out.

                      agreed on moving suspension points, and unfortunately it looks like that's the only real choice other than modding the pan or hacking up the firewall. it's a great idea otherwise..
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by nando View Post
                        yeah, one complication is the bolt holes are about 2 3/8" on center, so you couldn't just move it one "hole" back. But maybe you could move it as far as it needed to be, and either thread new holes in the block for those bolts, or just leave them out (there's a ton of them, I doubt it would matter much).

                        I'm thinking I'll do studs for most of mine anyway.. the bolts always seem to back out.

                        agreed on moving suspension points, and unfortunately it looks like that's the only real choice other than modding the pan or hacking up the firewall. it's a great idea otherwise..

                        i have two e34 oil pans. one has a broken lip on the front.

                        why do you have to cut the pan all the way through?

                        what about cutting a "notch" or section out of the pan and leaving flange intact?

                        it is a really complicated pan. if i remember right, there are about 4 or 5 bolts that go through the sump and this could be the problem with my theory.

                        i have been thinking about bolting the flange to my scrap m50 block to keep it from warping while it is welded.

                        i haven't looked at it but this is along the lines i am thinking.....
                        sigpic
                        Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

                        88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
                        92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
                        88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
                        88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
                        87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
                        12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black

                        Comment


                          ah, hell....i just went out to my shed and took a good look at the pan. i guess nothing is impossible, but its going to be pretty tough to mod that oil sump. there are about 20 things that are in symbiotic relationship such as dipstick, where the diff flange ends compared to the flange on the back of the pan the holes in the sump, etc, etc....... it will be pretty tough to do.
                          sigpic
                          Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

                          88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
                          92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
                          88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
                          88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
                          87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
                          12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by flyboyx View Post
                            ah, hell....i just went out to my shed and took a good look at the pan. i guess nothing is impossible, but its going to be pretty tough to mod that oil sump. there are about 20 things that are in symbiotic relationship such as dipstick, where the diff flange ends compared to the flange on the back of the pan the holes in the sump, etc, etc....... it will be pretty tough to do.
                            You cant move the diff too far back either (~2cm i think) because it will interfere with the gearbox. Maybe you can cut a little in the gearbox though.
                            E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
                            E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
                            E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

                            Comment


                              I'll finally have my new Getrag 260 for mockup in the next couple months. I didn't see anything with the diff that would stop me from moving it back - it would basically be in the same position as the E30 diff - but I didn't see how the CV shaft would hit the subframe either. :p
                              Build thread

                              Bimmerlabs

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by nando View Post
                                I'll finally have my new Getrag 260 for mockup in the next couple months. I didn't see anything with the diff that would stop me from moving it back - it would basically be in the same position as the E30 diff - but I didn't see how the CV shaft would hit the subframe either. :p
                                Yes you can move it back, but can you move it enough? :)
                                E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
                                E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
                                E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

                                Comment

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