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What to look for - inspecting IX

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    What to look for - inspecting IX

    Hey R3V,

    I've found myself looking at IXs again. I'm familiar with the 'jack stand test' for the centre diff., but I thought it might be a good idea to compile a list of things that are IX specific for people to look for when inspecting an IX.


    thanks,
    - Colin



    Centre Diff:

    On level, paved ground, approach the vehicle from the rear and place a floor jack under the rear diff. Ensure the casters of the jack are facing forward and functioning. Lift the vehicle until the rear wheels are off the ground. Enter the vehicle, start the engine and place in gear. Slowly drive forward. If the centre differential is working properly, the vehicle will drive forward and the rear wheels will turn. If the centre differential is not working properly, only the rear wheels will turn and the vehicle will not drive forward.

    Rear Diff:

    With the rear of the vehicle lifted and the engine off, put the vehicle in 1st (manual) or park (automatic). Manually turn one of the rear wheels. A functioning limited slip rear differential is indicated by the opposite wheel turning in the other direction. Heavy resistance should also be felt.

    Driveshaft Splines / Transfer Case Chain:

    Perform a couple hard take offs. If there is 'slippage' in the front driveshaft splines (condition - very worn) and/or transfer-case chain, there will be a rapid clunking/clinking sound and corresponding vibrations.
    Last edited by cwatt; 01-11-2015, 12:44 PM.

    #2
    * Leaking steering rack
    * Loose steering coupler
    * Front drive shaft splines (stripping)
    * Transfer case front splines (stripping)
    * Strut housing condition (stripped gland nut threads)
    * Front axle condition (boots and CV joints)
    * Master cylinder (unique to iX)
    * Viscous couplings (center and rear)

    Comment


      #3
      While the rear is up for the jack test, chock the front tires, leave the car in 1st/park and try to turn one of the rear wheels. The other should turn the opposite direction, but turning them should be very difficult and very slow. This tests the rear diff VC.

      * Condition of front driveshaft guibo
      * Condition of intermediate guibo on manual transmission cars
      * Do a couple of hard take-offs to find out if the driveshaft splines and/or the transfer case chain is slipping

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        #4
        check the rails for rot (where the rear springs sit on).
        www.instagram.com/snwmble
        #snwmble

        Current:
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        '90 BMW 325iX - Sterling Silver/Houndstooth sport(5-speed converted)
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        Past:
        '01 Audi Allroad - Light Silver/Platinum Saber Black
        '88 BMW 325iX - Diamond Schwarz/Silver sport *Sold*
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        '90 BMW 325i - Schwarz/Tan sport *Sold*
        '89 BMW 325ix - Diamond Schwarz/Black sport *Sold*

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          #5
          Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
          * Do a couple of hard take-offs to find out if the driveshaft splines and/or the transfer case chain is slipping
          Will this feel like a slipping clutch or will there be audible grinding?

          Comment


            #6
            check the condition of the front strut housings, replacements can be a little expensive/ a hassle
            1988 325iX - sold but not forgotten
            1984 MTech1 323i

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              #7
              Originally posted by cwatt View Post
              Will this feel like a slipping clutch or will there be audible grinding?
              Rapid clicking/clunking will be both audible and felt.

              Comment


                #8
                Look for rust, Even the smallest part of rust showing on surface could be alot more where you cant see it. I've learned with my "Mostly Rust Free Car" lol yeah should have defiantly checked it out more.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Additionally -

                  One place to look for rust is in the battery compartment in the trunk over the passenger rear wheel well. You can't see the rust often because it is covered by a plastic piece in front of the battery.

                  Do some full lock turns in the parking lot listening for CV joint noise in the front axles (low speed/crawling like pulling into a parking space).

                  Also the cat converters are way expensive to replace with stock BMW part. Can weld in aftermarket of course but worth a check. The original one has a sheet metal shield around asbestos (or something). The shield rusts away and they work ok but noisier.

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                    #10
                    Good point, Mine was almost rusted completely away.

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