Shift console broke

[The Dark Side of Will]

Aluminum's issue is fatigue rather than strength.

What's the torque spec for the trans-to-T-case guibo bolts? We just did the guibo on my dad's E24 based on the E28 Bentley which specified 90 ftlbs for the same 96/12 guibo.

Even though that's not an extreme spec for a 12mm bolt, the guibo comes with new bolts. However, the trans side bolts are pressed into the output flange like lug studs, so not really any choice on re-using them.

[AndrewBird]

I wouldn't even think twice about aluminum, it's a lot stronger than most think. The only thing I would be slightly concerned about is the holes elongating over time. Drilling the holes oversize and using a bushing would fix that.

I think the one picture is RWD E30 length, but I can't remember now.

[The Dark Side of Will]

With steel tube that's probably fine. I was thinking aluminum, for which .060" wall would be pretty thin.

I have a chunk of 1.250" aluminum square bar, but I can grab some 1" steel square tube if the dimensions indicate that might be a better choice.

Is the DSSR you pictured for your 525iX?

Has anyone done a DSSR for a 325iX? Are there any gotchas in terms of T-case, shifter support rod or guibo clearance?

[AndrewBird]

Late model RWD cars use the "centered" one, though I think it's actually just narrower, but only on the one side making it symmetrical.

I designed a DSSR like this:



1" square tube with a 1/16" wall works out perfect inside dimensions just needs some mill or grinder work to make it the correct shape.

[The Dark Side of Will]

unfortunately, that's the wrong joint. there are two types. you need the centered joint. ask me how I know.. :(

maybe you can make it work, but I remember specifically I couldn't use the DSSR with it.

Umm... how do you know? :-P

The joint I pictured above matches the one that's in my car now.

Do you have the part number for the "centered" one? If it's narrower and will allow me to use the 1.250" aluminum square bar to make a DSSR, it might be handy.

I thought I'd seen a different style with a narrower sleeve end at some point along the way.

[nando]

unfortunately, that's the wrong joint. there are two types. you need the centered joint. ask me how I know.. :(

maybe you can make it work, but I remember specifically I couldn't use the DSSR with it.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I removed the T-case today in preparation for replacing the "Rod Joint" at the transmission end of the shifter rod. My new rod joint is here, but the "plastic washer" (really a foam cushion) that goes inside it and takes whatever slack there may be out of the interface between the transmission shift shaft and the rod joint is on the way from a different supplier. There is an aftermarket supply base for the rod joints, but the plastic washer is BMW only.

There's a "large" (96mm bolt circle?) guibo between the manual transmission and the T-case. This size guibo is usually reserved for the "big block" sixes. I guess that's BMW's concession to the fact that when a jackass like me side-steps the clutch at 6200 RPM, the trans to T-case guibo in an iX will see higher loading than the driveshaft guibo of a RWD car. The iX driveshafts use 76mm guibos just like the RWD cars use.

The iX's 96mm guibo is a "common" unit that is still in use today. The catalog description is 96mm/12 meaning a 96mm bolt circle with 12mm bolts. There is a different 96/12 guibo that's called out for the E36 M3, E46 M3, E34 M5 and Z3/Z4 M Roadsters. I wonder if it's thicker than the standard guibo or just made tougher... or internally configured for less driveline lash.

I measure the steel sleeves in the Dorman 935-403 listed for the iX as 1.180 thick... I guess I'll go have CarQuest get in the Dorman 935-182 listed for the E34 M5 so I can measure it.
ETA: Dorman lists the M5 guibo as having a "sleeve length" of 35mm while the non-M5 guibo has a sleeve length of 30mm, which matches what I measured on the ones I have.

The mysteries of the 96/12 guibos solved, I remembered that the E34 540i is rated for more torque than the E34 M5. There is a 105/14 guibo listed for that car. That guibo is also listed for the E38 750i and E46 diesel cars, so it was used on the highest torque cars BMW built at the time, with the exception of... The E39 M5, for which a different part number also called out as 105/14 is listed.

That would be it, but I noticed one application was still missing from my guibo list: E31 850Ci & CSi... They both use 110mm/14's, but with different part numbers. BMW must have been extra confident in the amount of torque their V12 makes, as it actually isn't rated for as much torque as the S62.

For S+G's I looked up the F10 M5. It still uses a 110mm guibo, but the bolt size isn't called out. It's making 600 ftlbs on a cool day, so I guess BMW has altered their drivetrain analysis methods from when they used the same diameter guibo on an 850CSi making 360 ftlbs

//

This is what's necessary to get to the top two bolts on the T-case:






I measure the width of the rod joint where the shift rod goes through as 1.190". I guess I won't be able to use 1.250" aluminum square stock for a DSSR, then.

Rod Joint:

[2002tiiguy]

i think thats all the parts for the swap

[2002tiiguy]

(1) 26111225624 Flex disc for driveshaft
(1) 26201227191 Centering flange (X5)
(1) 26201225981 Ring cover
(3) 26111204215 Hex bolt M10X42
(3) 26111225054 Hex bolt M10X50
(3) 07129964672 Self locking hex nut M10

[The Dark Side of Will]

Repaired E30 shift support rod above with E34 rod below:



Z3 1.9 shifter installed. I'm waiting until the new Z3 1.9 shifter for my dad's E24 and the new transmission rod joint(s) arrives in order to measure them for making my own semi-weighted DSSR.

[nando]

I've always just removed the transfercase. I usually do the top bolts from above, just requires some careful positioning of the jack. Once I removed and reinstalled it in an hour, because I had it all bolted together after working on it for a day and it wouldn't get into gear.. I was pissed, pulled it apart and had it back together and working again. Now I'm old and it would probably take me a week. :p

[Eskie]

I was never able to do it with the transfer case in the car. Are you guys dropping the transmission and transfer case as one unit? Or are you dropping just the transfer case. Last time I removed just the transfer case with a odd combination of 2x 6" extensions and a swivel joint in the middle of it.

..it was a pain in the ass though, next time I will probably remove both at once.

Dust cover looks great. Its nice to have peace of mind knowing that the front shaft is further into the transfer case when you driving around, isn't it?

[nando]

Yeah it might be possible but i wouldn't want to try.

[AudioNToxication]

I never was able to change the coupler with the t case in the car, you might be able to do it if you reach through the shifter hole up top.
though i would not count on it.
order the guibo, go from there

[The Dark Side of Will]

I realized I had not posted (or taken!) a photo of the final product of the modified dust cover.



And here's a closeup of the broken shifter support rod. Since new ones are $140+, this one will be repaired.



Also, my dad and I are ordering about $900 worth of parts for this car and his E24... Doing shifters, driveline refresh (his CSB rubber just died), guibo mods, seat repairs, brake hoses and some miscellaneous items like my right mirror glass and his right interior door handle.